The Best Pilot Watches: 7 Picks From Top Brands
The term “pilot watch” doesn’t have a strict, coherent definition. Various watches have been made for pilots over the years, with differing functionality and aesthetics. Some people think of classic “flieger” watches, with large black dials featuring highly legible markers and a traditional triangle at 12 o’clock, when they think of a pilot’s watch. Others will inevitably think of the Rolex GMT-Master, or perhaps the world’s first watch made for pilots: the Cartier Santos. We’ll show you all of these and more in this list of seven of the best pilot watches.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41: Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Edition
There are a wide variety of IWC pilot watches to choose from, including the Spitfire, Big Pilot, and Mark XVIII. But you can also get day, date, and chronograph functionality with the Pilot’s Chronograph 41 model. My favorite variant is the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS edition released in 2022, with turquoise accents and a turquoise rubber strap (or as IWC calls it, “PETRONAS green”). Unlike the turquoise Rolex Oyster Perpetual, you won’t have to pay 2x retail price to get it. It can be found on the grey market for roughly its $8,350 MSRP.
Although the 6-9-12 orientation of the subdials might lead one to assume this watch has a Valjoux 7750-based movement of some sort, it’s actually powered by an in-house IWC movement, Caliber 69385, which debuted in 2020 (based on Caliber 69370 which came out in 2016). The strap on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 features IWC’s handy EasX-CHANGE system for tool-free strap changes.
PIlot’s Watch Chronograph 41 AMG-Petronas specs
| Model Name | Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One™ Team” |
| Reference Number | IW388108 |
| Case Material | Titanium |
| Case Diameter | 41mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.5mm |
| Movement | IWC Caliber 69385 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, day, date |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | Turquoise rubber strap with tool-free release function |
| Market Price (2023) | $8,600 |
Laco Replika 55 “B-Uhr”
The B-Uhr is what inspired the design of IWC pilot watches and so many others. Short for Beobachtungsuhr, which translates to “observation watch” in English, B-Uhr refers to a specific type of pilot watch commissioned by the German government for use by the Luftwaffe in the late 1930s. Accurate timekeeping was critical for flight navigation, and the German military wanted something highly legible with a large enough crown to be operated with gloves on.
In the late 1930s, five companies—A. Lange & Söhne, IWC Schaffhausen, Laco, Wempe, and Stowa—were contracted to produce these watches to spec. 55mm cases, black dials with luminous markers, a triangle at 12 o’clock, pocket watch movements (usually Unitas) with Breguet springs and jumbo crowns were standard on all B-Uhren. Obviously not everyone thinks it’s cool to have a watch that was, well, designed for Nazi bombers, but the longevity and influence of the B-Uhr’s design is undeniable.
Nowadays, countless brands (most notably Sinn) make popular “fliegers”–pilot watches with B-Uhr-inspired dials with large luminous markers including that ever-present triangle at 12–in the $2,000 ballpark. But if you want a truly accurate representation of a B-Uhr, look no further than the Laco Replika 55. It faithfully recreates the B-Uhr, 55mm diameter and all, plus it’s made by one of the original five manufacturers. Although it’s now discontinued, the Replika 55 had a retail price of $4,190 in 2020. That price seems a bit high for an ETA-based watch when there are capable fliegers available for less than half that, but if you want the 55mm size of the original B-Uhren, you don’t have many options.
Laco Replika 55 Specs
| Movement | Laco 97 (ETA 6497.1 base, manual-wind) |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 55mm |
| Case Thickness | 21mm |
| Bracelet/Strap | Riveted brown calf leather, closed-loop style |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Last MSRP (2020) | $4,190 |
Omega RAF-53 (2777)
If you’d rather have a watch worn by the “good guys,” we wouldn’t blame you. The only vintage watch we’ve included in this list is the “Omega ’53,” so nicknamed because this reference (2777) was sold exclusively in 1953 to the British Royal Air Force. Although it’s quite different than a flieger, it is clearly a legibility-focused watch as well. Its generously-lumed pencil hands contrast against the black dial, and the center-seconds hand (a feature we take for granted today) was a must. Many watches of the day had small subdials to indicate running seconds, but pilots actually needed to read the seconds.
The 37mm diameter was larger than most men’s watches at the time. Like the Rolex Milgauss, the Omega RAF-53’s movement is encased in a faraday cage to achieve magnetic resistance. That extra iron gives ref. 2777 a bit more heft than a typical dainty 1950’s watch. The Omega 53 remains highly collectible today, and there are several variants that keep watch nerds busy discussing. Fortunately the production volume was high enough that when you find one for sale, prices typically won’t be astronomical.
Omega ’53 Specs
| Reference Number | 2777 |
| Nickname | Omega ’53 or Omega RAF-53 |
| Caliber | Omega Caliber 283 (Manual-wind, 5 beats per second, encased in faraday cage for magnetic resistance) |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 37mm |
| Dial | Black with luminous Arabic numerals |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Bracelet/Strap | NATO strap is appropriate (fixed bars) |
| Year Produced | 1953 only, exclusively made for the British Ministry of Defence |
Cartier Santos de Green Skeleton
Collectors are often aware that Cartier’s Santos model was the first watch designed for aviators, with roots going back to 1904. There was no template for what a pilot’s watch should be; Cartier was just doing what they thought made sense. Aside from the obviously-distinctive square case, the Santos gave us an underappreciated innovation: integrated lugs. Now we think it’s normal for the lugs to truly be part of the case, but in the old days, wire lugs were usually just soldered on after the fact. The Santos has remained a popular watch through the years, and certainly helped Cartier’s turnaround as they propelled their sales figures beyond Omega’s in 2022.
Although Cartier makes plenty of classic, subdued options for the Santos, we can’t help but be drawn to the skeletonized versions. Skeletonized Cartiers are in a bit of a sweet spot–expensive enough that you’re looking at a legitimately excellent and well-finished movement, but not astronomically priced like some brands’ six-figure skeletonized dials. If you’re looking for the most practical pilot’s watch, the Santos de Cartier Green Skeleton certainly isn’t it, but it’s among the most stylish.
Like the IWC pilot’s watch we showed you earlier, this offering from Cartier (also owned by Richemont) has quick-release tool-free strap change functionality. No more fussing about with springbars if you want to put a leather strap on–but the only downside is that aftermarket bracelets are off the table. So, you’ll have to buy your straps from Cartier.
Santos de Cartier Green Skeleton Specs
| Model Name | Santos de Cartier Green Skeleton |
| Reference | WHSA0028 |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 39.8mm |
| Case Thickness | 9.08mm |
| Crystal | Sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Skeletonized |
| Movement | Cartier 9611 MC (Manual-wind, 8 beats per second) |
| Power Reserve | Approximately 72 hours |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters (330 feet) |
| Strap/Bracelet Material | Stainless steel bracelet with tool-free release function |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Market Price (2023) | Approximately $23,000 USD |
More on Cartier:
The Best Entry Level Cartier Watches
A History of the Cartier Tank
Is Cartier Leading the Return of Small Watches for Men?
Do Cartier Watches Hold Value?
Rolex GMT-Master II “Root Beer”
The aviation heritage of Rolex’s GMT-Master II makes it an easy choice to include in this list. Pan-Am Airways approached Rolex in 1954 to design a multi-time-zone watch with a rotating bezel similar to the Glycine Airman, and the GMT-Master was born. The modern steel version of that watch, the GMT-Master II ref. 126710, remains one of the hottest watches on the market today, but today we’ll show some love in particular to the rose gold two-tone version, the Rolex Root Beer GMT ref. 126711 CHNR.
Not so many years ago, the idea of a two-tone Rolex going over retail would’ve been completely laughable. Two-tone watches have historically been snubbed by collectors compared to their stainless steel equivalents, often going for significant discounts. But the first GMT-Master II with a black-and-brown bezel insert, ref. 126711 CHNR, debuted in 2018 and was an immediate hit. When the “Rolex demand explosion” of 2019-2021 came, Rolex waitlist times for the Root Beer began to soar, as did their resale prices. I can’t think of another two-tone watch that ever had such waits and markups.
The rotating 24-hour bezel is totally intuitive–just rotate it either direction until the 24-hour hand is pointing to the right time you want to track–and the bezel feel is extremely smooth and satisfying. The GMT-Master II also has an independent hour hand; it isn’t locked to the 24-hour hand like on the original vintage GMT-Master models. Rolex claims this gives the GMT-Master II the ability to tell time in three time zones, although in my opinion that “third” time zone–reading the 24-hour hand without the bezel–isn’t much easier than just doing the time zone math in my head. Regardless, people don’t line up to buy the Rolex GMT-Master II because it tells time in three time zones. They buy it because it looks great and it’s extremely reliable.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126711 CHNR Specs
| Model Name | GMT-Master II |
| Reference Number | 126711 CHNR |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel and 18k Everose Gold |
| Case Diameter | 40mm |
| Case Height | 12mm |
| Movement Caliber | Rolex Caliber 3285 |
| Power Reserve | Approximately 70 hours |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters (330 feet) |
| Bracelet | Stainless Steel and 18k Everose Gold Oyster Bracelet with Easylink clasp |
| Price (MSRP) | $16,150 |
| Market Price (2023) | Approximately $20,000 |
More on Rolex
Best Rolex GMT-Master II Alternatives
The Rolex Supply Chain: Does Demand Really Exceed Supply?
Rolex Myths, Lies, and Almost-Firsts
Rolex Pepsi Production Issues: Rumor or Reality?
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Mint Green
Like Rolex’s GMT-Master, the Breitling Navitimer is an all-time classic pilot’s watch with its own distinctive aesthetic. The Navitimer, launched in 1952, got famous for its slide rule bezel and rather busy dial, and Breitling has been associated with aviation ever since. The Navitimer B01 lineup launched in 2022 got some elegant updates to celebrate its 70th anniversary. The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41, the smallest of three size options, is the best-looking in my opinion. It scraps the tachymeter from the already-cluttered-enough dial, so there are only two rings of numbers at the edge of the dial instead of three. Plus, Breitling made an excellent choice with the typeface, and the mint green dial option is outstanding in person. You can’t go wrong with any Navitimer, but for my money the mint Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 is the best pilot watch from Breitling.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41
| Model | Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 |
| Reference Number | AB0139211L1P1 |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 41mm |
| Case Thickness | 13.6mm |
| Movement | Breitling Caliber B01, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Dial | Pistachio with luminous hands and Arabic numerals |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph |
| Crystal | Sapphire, glare-proofed on both sides |
| Bezel | Bidirectional, slide rule bezel |
| Strap/Bracelet | Black alligator leather strap with tang buckle |
| MSRP | $9,200 (Leather strap) $9,600 (Steel seven-link bracelet) |
Patek Calatrava Pilot’s Watch 5522a
The first Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot’s Watch debuted in 2015, loosely based on some aviator watches they made in 1936. It was a travel-time model in white gold, ref. 5524g. With its large case and copious lume, it was a major departure from the conservative dress watches that typically occupy the Calatrava line. Two years later, Patek released a 600-piece limited edition steel version that scrapped the second time-zone feature: Ref. 5522a. The 5522a delivers all the original legibility-centric fundamentals of a pilot’s watch: a large high-contrast dial, lots of lume, and a long white central seconds hand.
The 5522a was immediately so popular when it came out in 2017 that a Rolex Forums named Mike G. remarked, “The hype surrounding this watch has been unlike anything I’ve ever seen in my ten years of collecting.” Instantly, examples started appearing on the secondhand market for about 2.5x their retail price of $21,547. The price still hasn’t come down much from there, and it’s easy to see why the popularity of the 5522a has endured: it’s a good-looking, easy-to-read watch in a large but daily-wearable size (42mm) with the build quality that Patek Philippe is famous for.
Patek Calatrava Pilot 5522a Specs
| Model Name | Calatrava Pilot |
| Reference Number | 5522A-001 |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 42mm |
| Case Height | 9mm |
| Movement | Caliber 324 S (Automatic, 8 beats per second, Geneva Seal) |
| Power Reserve | Approximately 45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Seconds |
| Dial | Blue Lacquered |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Strap | Vintage-style brown calfskin with contrast stitching |
| Year Produced | 2017 |
| Limited Edition | 600 pieces |
| MSRP (2017) | $21,547 |
| Market Price (2023) | Approximately $52,000 |
While there’s no shortage of excellent pilot’s watches to choose from, I hope that gives you a good idea of some of the coolest options out there today. Pilot watches have grown from their strictly utilitarian roots to span almost every price point. What are the best pilot watches that we didn’t include in this list? Feel free to let us know in the comments!
