Grand Seiko Releases a New Case Size and a New Dial Texture at Watches and Wonders 2024
Grand Seiko has a history of tackling the Swiss watch industry head-on. Seiko first showed up at the Neuchatel Observatory chronometer competitions, which had been an annual Swiss-only contest to make the most accurate watch, in 1964. Their watches performed poorly. But by 1968, the most accurate mechanical watch at the whole show was a Grand Seiko. So it’s fitting that Grand Seiko is the only Japanese brand at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024. The Grand Seiko 2024 releases are mostly evolutionary, but a new 38.6mm case size is intriguing and there’s also a nice new dial texture to check out.
Another interesting development is that Grand Seiko has now seemingly positioned its steel and titanium watches into two tiers: typical movement with typical case material (stainless steel or high-intensity titanium), or new-generation movement with advanced alloy (Ever-Brilliant Steel or Bright Hard Titanium). The better tier costs thousands more. You can check our Watches and Wonders 2024 coverage to see releases from more brands. But for now, here’s everything you should know about the eight new Grand Seiko 2024 models.
SBGD215 Micro Artist Studio Spring Drive
Some say that the finishing of a typical Grand Seiko is on par with an entry-level Patek Philippe, and I would agree. But there’s even a level of Grand Seiko above that: the Masterpiece Collection, which starts at $42,000. Mechanical GS Masterpieces will be made at the prestigious new Atelier Ginza, while ultra-high-end Spring Drive models like the SBGD215, new for 2024, are made at the esteemed Micro Artist Studio in the Japanese Alps.
The SBGD215, like the very similar SBGD213 that came before it, is platinum, coated in diamonds and sapphires, and limited to 8 pieces. Its angular 44.5mm case shape first debuted on the SBGA403 in 2019. Typical Grand Seiko Spring Drives are rated to run at ±1 second per day, but Micro Artist Studio editions bring that down to ±0.5 seconds. Caliber 9R01 also has an eight-day power reserve (instead of the usual three) thanks to three mainspring barrels. Set with 293 gems (148 diamonds and 145 sapphires), ref. SBGD215 will retail for $300,000.
SBGD215 Specs
| Model | SBGD215 |
| Case Material | Platinum |
| Case Diameter | 44.5mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.4mm |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Movement | Caliber 9R01 (Manual-wind Spring Drive rated to ±0.5 second per day) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve (on rear) |
| Power Reserve | 8 days |
| Bracelet/Strap | Croc strap with deployant clasp |
| Lug Width | 23mm |
| Limited Edition | 8 pieces |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $300,000 |
SBGE307 Spring Drive GMT
There’s also a new Grand Seiko with a Spring Drive movement and that same angular 44.5mm case for those of us who aren’t spending Bentley GT money on a watch. For 2024, we now have the SBGE307, which is a GMT version of the SBGA403. Note that we already had the SBGC253–which is the chronograph and GMT version of the SBGA403. Sometimes I want to rant about Grand Seiko’s product positioning but putting all that aside, this new GMT is a good-looking watch.
Seiko says the dial texture “evokes a lionʼs mane glimmering in the rays of the sun.” I would’ve guessed “steel wool floor buffer pad” but that works too. The 14.9mm case height is a drawback for some people, but the titanium case and bracelet help keep it lightweight. Although Grand Seiko was once viewed as somewhat of a “better value” than Rolex (and largely, they still are) their prices have been increasing in recent years. At $10,700, the Grand Seiko SBGE307 has the exact same 2024 list price as a Rolex Batman GMT.
SBGE307 Specs
| Model | SBGE307 |
| Case Material | High-intensity titanium |
| Case Diameter | 44.5mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.9mm |
| Water Resistance | 200m |
| Movement | Caliber 9R66 (Automatic Spring Drive rated to ±1 second per day) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indicator, GMT |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | High-intensity titanium bracelet |
| Lug Width | 23mm |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $10,700 |
SBGC275 Spring Drive GMT Chronograph
Grand Seiko historically hasn’t had great success with chronographs. Their first attempt, SBGC001, arrived in 2007 with comically large pushers and it never really got much love from enthusiasts. Perhaps Grand Seiko listened to the complaints, because they seemed to overcorrect that issue with the SBGC249, which has pushers that arguably look too small. But I think the pushers on the new-for-2024 SBGC275 Spring Drive GMT Chronograph are just right.
Well, this SBGC275 is the same thing as 2023’s SBGC253 chronograph, except with a maroon “lion’s mane” dial instead of a silver one. Grand Seiko loves combining GMT’s with chronographs, but maybe if they got rid of the GMT function they could make the case slimmer than 16.8mm. 16.8mm! Oh well. Being limited to 700 pieces, they shouldn’t have too much trouble selling them all, even with a $13,400 list price. The SBGC275 will only be sold at Grand Seiko boutiques.
SBGC275 Specs
| odel | SBGC275 |
| Case Material | High-intensity titanium |
| Case Diameter | 44.5mm |
| Case Thickness | 16.8mm |
| Water Resistance | 200m |
| Movement | Caliber 9R96 (Automatic Spring Drive rated to ±0.5 second per day) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, GMT, chronograph |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | High-intensity titanium bracelet |
| Lug Width | 23mm |
| Limited Edition | 700 pieces (boutique only) |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $13,400 |
SLGW003 and SLGW002 Hi-Beat Evolution 9 White Birch
The models I’ve shown you so far are all basically different colorways/configurations of existing models. But for Watches and Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has also introduced a whole new 38.6mm case size as part of its “Evolution 9” collection. “Low center of gravity” is one of the themes of this collection, and while many Grand Seikos are quite thick, the case height of the new Hi-Beat Evolution 9 White Birch models is just under 10mm.
The White Birch Bark dial texture will look somewhat familiar to Grand Seiko enthusiasts, but it’s actually a bit different than the Birch texture first seen in 2021 on the SLGH005, then the SLGA009. Those original Birch Grand Seikos were 40mm steel watches, and both quite popular. You can think of the newer Birch Bark texture on the SLGW002 (rose gold) and SLGW003 (titanium) as a more “close-up” view of a birch tree’s bark.
Also, the 2024 White Birches come on crocodile straps rather than metal bracelets. They feature a new movement, Caliber 9SA4, which is the manual-wind equivalent of the automatic 9SA5 caliber. It’s a slight improvement over GS’s previous manual-wind Hi-Beat movement, 9S64. The 9SA4 provides 80 hours of power reserve (instead of 72) while also managing to be 1.3mm thinner.
Grand Seiko typically uses what they describe as “high-intensity titanium,” but they also released a newer alloy called Brilliant Hard Titanium in 2017. It has only been used on a couple of models since then, and SLGW002 is the latest watch to use this alloy.
Brilliant Hard Titanium is as light as pure titanium but twice as hard as stainless steel and therefore highly resistant to scratches. Its color is brighter than the other forms of titanium used for Grand Seiko and allows the Zaratsu polished surfaces to stand out even more prominently.
grand-seiko.com
Grand Seiko fans have often called for smaller cases–both in terms of diameter and thickness–and that’s exactly what the SLGW003 and SLGW002 deliver. Given the popularity of White Birch dials, I expect these to sell well.
SLGW003/SLGW002 Specs
| Model | SLGW003 (Bright Hard Titanium) SLGW002 (18k rose gold) |
| Case Material | Bright Hard Titanium or rose gold |
| Case Diameter | 38.6mm |
| Case Thickness | 9.95mm |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Movement | Caliber 9SA4 (Manual-wind, 10 beats per second) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | Croc strap with deployant clasp |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $10,700 (Titanium) $45,000 (Rose gold) |
SBGJ277 Snowy Valley Hi-Beat GMT
When describing the SBGJ277, Seiko asks us to “imagine a valley where the highest peaks are capped with snow, even in summer.” You could do that, or you could imagine the SBGJ239 except with a silver textured dial and a bracelet.
The trusty 9S86 movement has been powering SBGJ models (which are all Hi-Beat GMT’s) for over a decade now. It ticks ten times per second, delivering precise timekeeping within the -5 to +3 seconds per day range. Although this watch doesn’t have a new case or movement, it also doesn’t have as high of a price as some of the other Grand Seiko 2024 releases. The SBGJ277 will retail for $6,800.
SBGJ277 Specs
| Model | SBGJ277 |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Case Diameter | 44.2mm |
| Case Thickness | 14.8mm |
| Water Resistance | 200m |
| Movement | Caliber 9S86 (Automatic, 10 beats per second) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | Stainless steel bracelet |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $6,800 |
SLGH021 Genbi Valley Hi-Beat GMT
The SLGH line is Seiko’s three-hand Hi-Beat lineup, and the SLGH013 released in 2022 was the first watch to have a bracelet made of Ever-Brilliant Steel. Most steel Seikos are made out of familiar 316L stainless steel, but Seiko doesn’t call their Ever-Brilliant Steel “stainless” at all. They regard it as a different alloy entirely, noting that it is 1.7 more times more resistant to corrosion than stainless steel, making it “the most corrosion-resistant steel in the world.”
The SLGH021 “Genbi Valley” is the only Grand Seiko 2024 release made from Ever-Brilliant Steel. It’s the same thing as the SLGH013 but with a different textured dial. The dial of the SLGH021 has a “pistachio-flavored snow cone” look to it. It’s a molded texture, not guilloche or laser-etched, but it looks great in pictures.
The price has creeped into the five-figure range, but a $10,400 MSRP is forgivable given it has one of the slimmer new-generation movements (9SA5). I won’t repeat too much of Seiko’s flowery language about the “magnificent scenery of the Genbi Valley” that inspired the dial (although I’m sure it’s beautiful), and instead I’ll just mention that all 9SA movements have two mainspring barrels. That’s pretty neat, and it’s how they got the power reserve up to 80 hours.
SLGH021 Genbi Valley Specs
| Model | SLGH021 |
| Case Material | Ever-Brilliant Steel |
| Case Diameter | 40mm |
| Case Thickness | 11.7mm |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Movement | Caliber 9SA5 (Automatic, 10 beats per second) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Limited Edition | 1,000 pieces |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $10,400 |
SBGW314
In 2020, Grand Seiko released the SBGW259, inspired heavily by the first Grand Seiko model from 1960. It matched the logo style and even the cursive “Diashock 25 Jewels” text of the original. It was a classy three-hand 38mm watch with a titanium case and a rich blue dial. And now Grand Seiko has released a version with a rose gold case: SBGW314. $26,500 is a lot to ask for a Grand Seiko with an aging 9S6 movement, but it’s limited to only 50 pieces.
SBGW314 Specs
| Model | SBGW314 |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold |
| Case Diameter | 38mm |
| Case Thickness | 10.9mm |
| Water Resistance | 30m |
| Movement | 9S64 (Manual-wind, 8 beats per second) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Bracelet/Strap | Croc strap with deployant clasp |
| Lug Width | 19mm |
| Limited Edition | 50 pieces |
| MSRP (Apr. 2024) | $26,500 |
Grand Seiko 2024 Releases: In Conclusion
So, all in all, the Grand Seiko 2024 Watches and Wonders offerings probably won’t send the world into a tailspin but it’s a nice lineup. It’s mostly just case/movement/dial rearranging, except for two pretty noteworthy developments: the new texture of the Genbi Valley dial, and the new 38.6mm case size. It will also be interesting to see if Ever-Brilliant Steel and Brilliant Hard Titanium continue to proliferate throughout the Grand Seiko lineup.
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