The Best Entry-Level Luxury Watches
Entry-level luxury watch buyers today have more options than ever. Established and up-and-coming brands alike are making some compelling new four-figure watches, and there are even more choices available if you consider the used watch market. While many “affordable luxury” brands like Longines, Frederique Constant, Oris and Zodiac are doing genuinely cool stuff these days, in this article I’ll focus on “true” luxury watches from premium brands like Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko and Breitling. It’s an admittedly arbitrary distinction, but in my opinion, here are the best entry-level luxury watches you should know about from several top brands.
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Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3570.50
I’ll start off with one of the most “obvious” recommendations for an attainable luxury watch. There are several choices for good entry-level Omega watch models, from Seamaster divers to Aqua Terras and more. But if I had to pick one, for my money I’m going with a straightforward Speedmaster Professional model. Some modern Speedy Pro models feature sapphire crystals and/or casebacks, but collectors often prefer the appealing warmth of the classic Hesalite crystals found on references like 3570.50.
The 3570.50 was a workhorse in the Omega lineup from 1996-2014, faithfully retaining the familiar look of the 145.012 and 105.012 models that famously went to the moon in 1969. Because of its long production run, the 3570.50 is not hard to find, which is a good thing for a collector looking for an entry-level luxury watch. There are a lot of Omega Speedmaster models out there, but you really can’t go wrong with a bog-standard Speedy Pro.
For More Entry-Level Omega Watches: Entry-Level Omega Watch Guide
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 Specs
Model | Speedmaster Professional |
Reference Number | 3570.50 |
Years Produced | 1996-2014 |
Case Diameter | 42mm |
Case Thickness | 14.5mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Crystal | Hesalite |
Movement | Caliber 1861 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 48 hours |
Water Resistance | 50m |
Bracelet/Strap | Steel bracelet |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $4,000 |
Entry-Level Luxury Dress Watch: Blancpain Villeret Ultra Plate
Although they are perhaps best known for their Fifty Fathoms dive watch, Blancpain is actually a world-class dress watch brand. Because dress watches get so much less love from enthusiasts than sports watches, you can find some at fantastic prices. There are a variety of entry-level Blancpain watches that can be found for well under $10,000. The Villeret Ultra Plate lineup offers beautiful white enamel dials and extremely thin cases with list prices that start at $10,200 for men’s sizes. However, it’s usually not hard to find Blancpains for 30% off MSRP.
For More Entry-Level Blancpain Watches: Entry-Level Blancpain Watch Guide
Villeret Ultra Plate 38mm Specs
Model | Villeret Ultra Plate |
Reference Number | 6224 1127 55B |
Case Diameter | 38mm |
Case Thickness | 8.35mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | Caliber 1150 (Automatic, 6 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 100 hours |
Water Resistance | 30m |
Bracelet/Strap | Alligator strap with folding clasp |
MSRP (Feb. 2024) | $10,200 |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $6,800 |
Cartier Santos 100 Large Model
Cartier has had a strong turnaround in recent years, and the Santos line has been a big part of that. The Santos holds a place in wristwatch history as both the first pilot’s watch and the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch. A stainless steel Santos is an excellent entry-level Cartier watch, particularly the neo-vintage Santos 100 Large Model (ref. W20073X8).
Its classic silver dial and Roman numerals exemplify the timeless Cartier Santos aesthetic that you would expect, but its very large 41.3mm diameter is distinctively modern. Keep in mind that rectangular watch cases “wear larger” than round ones. Santos 100 Large models can be found for about $5,000 pre-owned.
For More Entry-Level Cartier Watches: Entry-Level Cartier Watch Guide
Cartier Santos 100 Large Specs
Model | Santos 100 Large Model |
Reference Number | W20073X8 |
Case Diameter | 41.3mm |
Case Thickness | 10.5mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | Cartier 049 (Base: ETA 2892-A2, Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 42 hours |
Water Resistance | 100m |
Bracelet/Strap | Black leather strap |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $5,000 |
More on Cartier:
Who Owns Cartier?
A History of the Cartier Tank
Is Cartier Leading the Return of Small Watches for Men?
Do Cartier Watches Hold Value?
Rolex Explorer 36 Ref. 14270
The Explorer 36 is the entry-level Rolex sports model. Although its history relating to Mt. Everest is a bit of a Rolex myth, its black dial and signature 3-6-9 hour markers have been iconic for over 70 years. You can’t go wrong with any generation of Explorer model, but ref. 14270 hits a nice sweet spot of modern reliability, neovintage appeal, and reasonable pricing (under $6,000).
The Rolex 14270 model was made from 1989-2001. Every 14270 comes on a steel Oyster bracelet with a 20mm lug width. The current Explorer 36 (ref. 124270) has a 19mm bracelet, which some find more elegant, while others prefer the more aggressive and traditional 20mm width.
For More Entry-Level Rolex Watches: Entry-Level Rolex Watch Guide
Rolex Explorer 14270 Specs
Model | Explorer |
Reference Number | 14270 |
Years Produced | 1989-2001 |
Case Diameter | 36mm |
Case Thickness | 11mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | Caliber 3000 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 42 hours |
Water Resistance | 100m |
Bracelet/Strap | Stainless steel Oyster bracelet |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $5,500 |
More on Rolex:
Platinum Rolex Watch Prices: A Collector’s Guide
The Best Rolex Day-Date Alternatives
Rolex and Nickel Allergies: What’s the Deal?
Can You Get a Rolex Under 1000 Dollars?
Understanding the Rolex Rehaut
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve
Panerai had a long history as a military equipment supplier, but today the brand is owned by Richemont, and is dedicated entirely to producing large cushion-case luxury sports watches. Panerai’s watches are designed after the ones they supplied the Italian Navy in the 1930’s-1950’s, which were actually modified and re-branded Rolex Oysters.
Panerai makes two families of watches: the Radiomir, which has no crown guard, and the Luminor, which has Panerai’s most recognizable single design element–a large, curved, latching crown guard that goes around the whole crown. Panerai Luminor prices generally start around $4,000 on the used market. There have been countless Luminor references made over the years, often with barely-noticeable differences, so it can be overwhelming figuring out which Panerai model to shop for.
If you’re looking for an entry-level luxury watch, I say look no further than the PAM 321. It has the classic sandwich dial (meaning the dial is two-layered, with lume applied on the lower plane) that collectors love, along with a GMT function and a power reserve indicator. Yet it sells secondhand for roughly the same price as many base Panerais. Plus, this model debuted in 2009, long before Panerai started pulling any movement downgrade shenanigans.
Panerai PAM 321 Specs
Model | Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve |
Reference Number | PAM00321 |
Case Diameter | 44mm |
Case Thickness | 19mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | P.9002 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds (subdial), power reserve indicator, GMT (12-hour scale), seconds hand auto-resets to 0 when setting |
Power Reserve | 72 hours |
Water Resistance | 300m |
Bracelet/Strap | Leather strap or steel bracelet |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $5,200 |
Bulgari Octo Solotempo Ultranero
In 2008, the Bulgari-owned Gerald Genta brand released the Octo, a watch with an attractive and unique case inspired by octagonal Genta-designed models from the 1990’s. By 2012, Bulgari was producing the Octo line under its own brand instead, and its success has greatly elevated Bulgari’s status as a legitimate luxury watchmaker. Collectors pay most attention to the record-settingly-thin Octo Finissimo lineup launched in 2014, which leaves some wrongly-overlooked “standard thickness” Octo models to be found for very reasonable prices.
Secondhand Bulgari watch prices are often already surprisingly low for what you get, and that’s especially true for models coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). DLC watches have fallen a bit out of favor with collectors because the coating can chip away with years of wear and inadvertent impacts. However, Bulgari’s DLC watches seem to hold up relatively well, and the black color works nicely with the angular case.
Octo “Ultranero” models, which is what Bulgari calls their DLC-coated lineup, can easily be found under $5,000. A black-on-black version also exists, as does a limited “Americas Edition” with blue numerals, but those sell for a bit more. In any case, the Bulgari Octo Ultranero Solotempo is an entry-level luxury watch that you won’t find on too many other wrists.
Bulgari Octo Ultranero Solotempo Specs
Model | Octo Solotempo Ultranero |
Reference Number | 102581 (Gold accents) 102738 (Red accents) |
Case Diameter | 41mm |
Case Thickness | 11mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | BVL 193 Solotempo |
Power Reserve | 50 hours |
Water Resistance | 100m |
Bracelet/Strap | Black rubber strap |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $4,200 |
Best Value Entry-Level Luxury Watch: Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE009
In any discussion about luxury watches with a good “value,” enthusiasts are likely to mention Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko watches have Rolex-like list prices, and a level of fit and finish that many argue exceeds Rolex. If you look at a Grand Seiko dial under a loupe, and then compare it to any other brand even close to its price, well, the GS is likely to come out ahead.
Grand Seiko tends to release a lot of different models, which can be confusing to collectors looking to pin down which GS is “the one” to get. Limited releases, seasonal releases, geographically-specific releases, new colorways…there are so many options that it’s probably easiest to first decide what kind of movement you want. Automatic, manual, quartz, or Spring Drive? If in doubt, I recommend going with a Spring Drive because it’s something you can’t get from any other brand: completely smooth hand movement. No ticks whatsoever, thanks to its Tri-Synchro regulator and electromagnetic braking.
Although Spring Drives contain no battery, they do have an integrated circuit. The mere presence of electronics irks some purists. But fortunately for entry-level luxury watch shoppers that don’t mind, Spring Drives often sell for well under list price. And since Grand Seiko has made so many interesting dials, why not get one with a textured dial? The discontinued Japan-only reference SBGE009, with a golf ball-like textured white dial, can be found for around $3,000. It’s hard to find a better entry-level luxury watch at that price.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE009 Specs
Model | Spring Drive GMT |
Reference | SBGE009 |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Case Diameter | 39.4mm |
Case Thickness | 13.6mm |
Movement Caliber | 9R66 (Spring Drive, totally smooth) |
Bracelet | Stainless Steel Bracelet with Deployment Clasp |
Water Resistance | 100 meters |
Dial Color | White (Golf ball-like texture) |
Power Reserve | 72 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
Accuracy | ±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month) |
Market Value | Approximately $2,900 USD (as of February 2024) |
Breitling Superocean 42
Ever since Georges Kern took the reigns of Breitling in 2017, the brand seems to be on the right track. Classy chronographs like the Premier, along with tasteful updates to their core lines, have brought Breitling out of the clunky oversized-early-2000’s-aesthetic era. The current Superocean dive watch lineup balances modern sensibilities with some vintage design cues, like the square-tipped minute hand.
The Superocean is available in three sizes, and the 36mm version looks great on small wrists. Personally I prefer the proportions of the 42 over the 44, but they all look good. Although it’s offered on a bracelet, I think the Superocean has one of the best rubber straps out there. The folding clasp’s quick-adjust function is a pleasure to use.
Breitling Superocean 42 Specs
Model | Superocean 42 |
Reference Number | A17375E71G1S1 |
Case Diameter | 42mm |
Case Thickness | 12.5mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | B17 (Base: ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1, Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 38 hours |
Water Resistance | 300m |
Bracelet/Strap | Rubber strap with folding clasp |
MSRP (Feb. 2024) | $5,000 |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $3,900 |
Entry-Level Luxury Watch from a New Brand: Norqain Wild One
I appreciate the fact that Norqain is a new watch company that, for once, didn’t buy an old brand name to revive and exaggerate about. They’re just making new watches, with no “heritage” whatsoever, and selling them on their merit alone. The first generation of Norqain watches was nice, but rather forgettable. They weren’t bringing anything particularly unique to the table. But since bringing on legendary watch industry executive Jean-Claude Biver as an advisor, the brand seems to have begun focusing on unique case materials and distinctive dials.
This approach has helped Norqain find their stride, and I think the Wild One is their best release yet. The first thing you’ll notice about the watch is that it is spectacularly light–the brand repeatedly mentions that the case is made of a proprietary carbon fiber composite called Norteq which is “3.5 times lighter than titanium.” Although it has been compared to the bioceramic cases of the Moonswatch models, it’s a step up from that.
Incredibly, the Wild One can withstand 5,000 G’s of acceleration. Its Kenissi movement combined with its rubbery crown provides an extremely satisfying winding feel, and the integrated rubber strap tapers perfectly around the wrist. Norqain’s only sins here are the lackluster movement finishing (I really don’t need an exhibition caseback on this), and their insistence on capitalized brand names. Officially, this is a “NORQAIN Wild ONE with a NORTEQ case,” although it’s pretty hard not to feel silly typing it like that. But, that didn’t stop me from picking one up. Written in all caps or not, I think Norqain has a bright future.
Norqain Wild One Specs
Model | Independence Wild ONE |
Reference Number | NNQ3000QUG1LA/G001 (Burgundy, limited to 200 pieces) NNQ3000QBK1A/B002 (Olive green) NNQ3000QBA1A/A001 (Blue) NNQ3000QBT1A/T002 (Black-on-black) |
Case Diameter | 42mm |
Case Thickness | 12.3mm |
Case Material | NORTEQ (lightweight carbon fiber composite) |
Movement | NORQAIN/Kenissi Calibre NN20/1 (Automatic, 8 beats per second, can withstand 5,000 G’s) |
Power Reserve | 70 hours |
Water Resistance | 200m |
Bracelet/Strap | Integrated grey rubber strap |
MSRP (Feb. 2024) | $5,690 (Burgundy, discontinued) $5,290 (Other colors) |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $4,500-$5,000 |
Entry-Level Luxury Dive Watch: Tudor Black Bay 58
Unlike Norqain, Tudor has a deep well of history to draw from–and they do, copiously. The vintage-Submariner-inspired Black Bay Fifty-Eight was a big hit upon its release in 2018. Its 39mm case is a sweet spot for many collectors. When a blue version was released two years later, that was a hot watch, too. But as with most hot Tudors, they eventually cooled down as other newer models came down the pipeline.
Now that some new Pelagos FXD models and the 37mm Black Bay 54 have come out, the ol’ Black Bay Fifty-Eight isn’t hard to get anymore. But that’s a good thing if you’re hoping to find an entry-level luxury watch under $4,000. Whether you choose a black or blue dial, the BB58 is a great dive watch and a very worthy one-watch collection.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Specs
Model | Black Bay Fifty-Eight |
Reference Number | 79030B (Blue) 79030N (Black) |
Case Diameter | 39mm |
Case Thickness | 11.9mm |
Case Material | Stainless Steel |
Movement | Calibre MT5402 (Automatic, 8 beats per second) |
Power Reserve | 70 hours |
Water Resistance | 200m |
Bracelet/Strap | Steel bracelet, fabric strap, synthetic suede strap, or leather strap |
MSRP (Feb. 2024) | $4,000 (Bracelet) $3,675 (Strap) |
Market Price (Feb. 2024) | $3,300 (Bracelet) $2,900 (Strap) |
A Higher Level of “Entry-Level Luxury Watches”
So far I’ve covered entry-level luxury watches in the $5,000ish ballpark, but the terms “entry-level” and “luxury” are both relative. If a Tudor isn’t sufficiently luxurious for you, well, let’s discuss what it takes to get something good from some of the very top watch brands.
Although the Aquanaut is technically the entry-Level Patek Philippe watch, in reality, it sells for well over its list price. Meanwhile, Patek’s classic dress watch–the Calatrava–can be found under MSRP in various configurations. $15,000 can get you a model like ref. 3696J, with a hobnail bezel and ultra-clean time-only display. That same price is also just enough to get an entry-level A. Lange & Söhne watch like the exquisitely-finished Saxonia ref. 219.026.
More Entry-Level Watches from the Best of the Best:
Entry-Level Vacheron Constantin Watches
Entry-Level Patek Philippe Watches
Entry-Level A. Lange & Söhne Watches
Entry-Level Audemars Piguet Watches
The two “Holy Trinity” brands other than Patek–Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin–both have decent pre-owned men’s options starting in the $11,000 ballpark. The current entry-level Vacheron Constantin watch is the Fiftysix, a relatively new model that’s starting to gain some steam. And aside from some old boring dress watches, the cheapest Audemars Piguet worth getting for men is probably a vintage two-tone quartz version of the popular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The octagonal case wears large for its size, so even a 33mm model like ref. 56303SA is passably unisex.
That should cover just about everything you need to know about the entry-level luxury watch landscape. If I overlooked your favorite one, let me know in the comments!