The Best Entry-Level Luxury Watches

Powerfunk Saturday, March 2nd, 2024 14 min. read

Entry-level luxury watch buyers today have more options than ever. Established and up-and-coming brands alike are making some compelling new four-figure watches, and there are even more choices available if you consider the used watch market. While many “affordable luxury” brands like Longines, Frederique Constant, Oris and Zodiac are doing genuinely cool stuff these days, in this article I’ll focus on “true” luxury watches from premium brands like Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko and Breitling. It’s an admittedly arbitrary distinction, but in my opinion, here are the best entry-level luxury watches you should know about from several top brands.

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Entry-level luxury watches from 3 top brands

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3570.50

I’ll start off with one of the most “obvious” recommendations for an attainable luxury watch. There are several choices for good entry-level Omega watch models, from Seamaster divers to Aqua Terras and more. But if I had to pick one, for my money I’m going with a straightforward Speedmaster Professional model. Some modern Speedy Pro models feature sapphire crystals and/or casebacks, but collectors often prefer the appealing warmth of the classic Hesalite crystals found on references like 3570.50.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

The 3570.50 was a workhorse in the Omega lineup from 1996-2014, faithfully retaining the familiar look of the 145.012 and 105.012 models that famously went to the moon in 1969. Because of its long production run, the 3570.50 is not hard to find, which is a good thing for a collector looking for an entry-level luxury watch. There are a lot of Omega Speedmaster models out there, but you really can’t go wrong with a bog-standard Speedy Pro.

For More Entry-Level Omega Watches: Entry-Level Omega Watch Guide

Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 Specs

ModelSpeedmaster Professional
Reference Number3570.50
Years Produced1996-2014
Case Diameter42mm
Case Thickness14.5mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
CrystalHesalite
MovementCaliber 1861 (Manual-wind, 6 beats per second)
Power Reserve48 hours
Water Resistance50m
Bracelet/StrapSteel bracelet
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$4,000
Omega Speedmaster 3570.50 specs

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Entry-Level Luxury Dress Watch: Blancpain Villeret Ultra Plate

Although they are perhaps best known for their Fifty Fathoms dive watch, Blancpain is actually a world-class dress watch brand. Because dress watches get so much less love from enthusiasts than sports watches, you can find some at fantastic prices. There are a variety of entry-level Blancpain watches that can be found for well under $10,000. The Villeret Ultra Plate lineup offers beautiful white enamel dials and extremely thin cases with list prices that start at $10,200 for men’s sizes. However, it’s usually not hard to find Blancpains for 30% off MSRP.

Blancpain Villeret Ultra Plate 38mm
Blancpain ref. 6224 1127 55B. Image: Blancpain

For More Entry-Level Blancpain Watches: Entry-Level Blancpain Watch Guide

Villeret Ultra Plate 38mm Specs

ModelVilleret Ultra Plate
Reference Number6224 1127 55B
Case Diameter38mm
Case Thickness8.35mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementCaliber 1150 (Automatic, 6 beats per second)
Power Reserve100 hours
Water Resistance30m
Bracelet/StrapAlligator strap with folding clasp
MSRP (Feb. 2024)$10,200
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$6,800
Blancpain 6224 1127 55B specs

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Cartier Santos 100 Large Model

Cartier has had a strong turnaround in recent years, and the Santos line has been a big part of that. The Santos holds a place in wristwatch history as both the first pilot’s watch and the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch. A stainless steel Santos is an excellent entry-level Cartier watch, particularly the neo-vintage Santos 100 Large Model (ref. W20073X8).

Entry-level men's luxury watch from Cartier: Santos 100 Large

Its classic silver dial and Roman numerals exemplify the timeless Cartier Santos aesthetic that you would expect, but its very large 41.3mm diameter is distinctively modern. Keep in mind that rectangular watch cases “wear larger” than round ones. Santos 100 Large models can be found for about $5,000 pre-owned.

For More Entry-Level Cartier Watches: Entry-Level Cartier Watch Guide

Cartier Santos 100 Large Specs

ModelSantos 100 Large Model
Reference NumberW20073X8
Case Diameter41.3mm
Case Thickness10.5mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementCartier 049 (Base: ETA 2892-A2, Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve42 hours
Water Resistance100m
Bracelet/StrapBlack leather strap
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$5,000
Cartier Santos 100 Large Model specs

More on Cartier:
Who Owns Cartier?
A History of the Cartier Tank
Is Cartier Leading the Return of Small Watches for Men?
Do Cartier Watches Hold Value?

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Rolex Explorer 36 Ref. 14270

The Explorer 36 is the entry-level Rolex sports model. Although its history relating to Mt. Everest is a bit of a Rolex myth, its black dial and signature 3-6-9 hour markers have been iconic for over 70 years. You can’t go wrong with any generation of Explorer model, but ref. 14270 hits a nice sweet spot of modern reliability, neovintage appeal, and reasonable pricing (under $6,000).

Rolex's entry-level sports watch: Explorer 36

The Rolex 14270 model was made from 1989-2001. Every 14270 comes on a steel Oyster bracelet with a 20mm lug width. The current Explorer 36 (ref. 124270) has a 19mm bracelet, which some find more elegant, while others prefer the more aggressive and traditional 20mm width.

For More Entry-Level Rolex Watches: Entry-Level Rolex Watch Guide

Rolex Explorer 14270 Specs

ModelExplorer
Reference Number14270
Years Produced1989-2001
Case Diameter36mm
Case Thickness11mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementCaliber 3000 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve42 hours
Water Resistance100m
Bracelet/StrapStainless steel Oyster bracelet
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$5,500
Rolex Explorer ref. 14270 specs

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More on Rolex:
Platinum Rolex Watch Prices: A Collector’s Guide
The Best Rolex Day-Date Alternatives
Rolex and Nickel Allergies: What’s the Deal?
Can You Get a Rolex Under 1000 Dollars?
Understanding the Rolex Rehaut

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve

Panerai had a long history as a military equipment supplier, but today the brand is owned by Richemont, and is dedicated entirely to producing large cushion-case luxury sports watches. Panerai’s watches are designed after the ones they supplied the Italian Navy in the 1930’s-1950’s, which were actually modified and re-branded Rolex Oysters.

Panerai PAM 321

Panerai makes two families of watches: the Radiomir, which has no crown guard, and the Luminor, which has Panerai’s most recognizable single design element–a large, curved, latching crown guard that goes around the whole crown. Panerai Luminor prices generally start around $4,000 on the used market. There have been countless Luminor references made over the years, often with barely-noticeable differences, so it can be overwhelming figuring out which Panerai model to shop for.

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If you’re looking for an entry-level luxury watch, I say look no further than the PAM 321. It has the classic sandwich dial (meaning the dial is two-layered, with lume applied on the lower plane) that collectors love, along with a GMT function and a power reserve indicator. Yet it sells secondhand for roughly the same price as many base Panerais. Plus, this model debuted in 2009, long before Panerai started pulling any movement downgrade shenanigans.

Panerai PAM 321 Specs

ModelLuminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve
Reference NumberPAM00321
Case Diameter44mm
Case Thickness19mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementP.9002 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
FunctionsHours, minutes, seconds (subdial), power reserve indicator, GMT (12-hour scale), seconds hand auto-resets to 0 when setting
Power Reserve72 hours
Water Resistance300m
Bracelet/StrapLeather strap or steel bracelet
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$5,200
Panerai PAM00321 specs

Bulgari Octo Solotempo Ultranero

In 2008, the Bulgari-owned Gerald Genta brand released the Octo, a watch with an attractive and unique case inspired by octagonal Genta-designed models from the 1990’s. By 2012, Bulgari was producing the Octo line under its own brand instead, and its success has greatly elevated Bulgari’s status as a legitimate luxury watchmaker. Collectors pay most attention to the record-settingly-thin Octo Finissimo lineup launched in 2014, which leaves some wrongly-overlooked “standard thickness” Octo models to be found for very reasonable prices.

Secondhand Bulgari watch prices are often already surprisingly low for what you get, and that’s especially true for models coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC). DLC watches have fallen a bit out of favor with collectors because the coating can chip away with years of wear and inadvertent impacts. However, Bulgari’s DLC watches seem to hold up relatively well, and the black color works nicely with the angular case.

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Octo “Ultranero” models, which is what Bulgari calls their DLC-coated lineup, can easily be found under $5,000. A black-on-black version also exists, as does a limited “Americas Edition” with blue numerals, but those sell for a bit more. In any case, the Bulgari Octo Ultranero Solotempo is an entry-level luxury watch that you won’t find on too many other wrists.

Bulgari Octo Ultranero Solotempo Specs

ModelOcto Solotempo Ultranero
Reference Number102581 (Gold accents)
102738 (Red accents)
Case Diameter41mm
Case Thickness11mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementBVL 193 Solotempo
Power Reserve50 hours
Water Resistance100m
Bracelet/StrapBlack rubber strap
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$4,200
Bulgari Octo Solotempo Ultranero specs

Best Value Entry-Level Luxury Watch: Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE009

In any discussion about luxury watches with a good “value,” enthusiasts are likely to mention Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko watches have Rolex-like list prices, and a level of fit and finish that many argue exceeds Rolex. If you look at a Grand Seiko dial under a loupe, and then compare it to any other brand even close to its price, well, the GS is likely to come out ahead.

Grand Seiko SBGE009

Grand Seiko tends to release a lot of different models, which can be confusing to collectors looking to pin down which GS is “the one” to get. Limited releases, seasonal releases, geographically-specific releases, new colorways…there are so many options that it’s probably easiest to first decide what kind of movement you want. Automatic, manual, quartz, or Spring Drive? If in doubt, I recommend going with a Spring Drive because it’s something you can’t get from any other brand: completely smooth hand movement. No ticks whatsoever, thanks to its Tri-Synchro regulator and electromagnetic braking.

Although Spring Drives contain no battery, they do have an integrated circuit. The mere presence of electronics irks some purists. But fortunately for entry-level luxury watch shoppers that don’t mind, Spring Drives often sell for well under list price. And since Grand Seiko has made so many interesting dials, why not get one with a textured dial? The discontinued Japan-only reference SBGE009, with a golf ball-like textured white dial, can be found for around $3,000. It’s hard to find a better entry-level luxury watch at that price.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE009 Specs

ModelSpring Drive GMT
ReferenceSBGE009
Case MaterialStainless Steel
Case Diameter39.4mm
Case Thickness13.6mm
Movement Caliber9R66 (Spring Drive, totally smooth)
BraceletStainless Steel Bracelet with Deployment Clasp
Water Resistance100 meters
Dial ColorWhite (Golf ball-like texture)
Power Reserve72 hours
FunctionsHours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Accuracy±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month)
Market ValueApproximately $2,900 USD (as of February 2024)
Grand Seiko SBGE009 specs

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Breitling Superocean 42

Ever since Georges Kern took the reigns of Breitling in 2017, the brand seems to be on the right track. Classy chronographs like the Premier, along with tasteful updates to their core lines, have brought Breitling out of the clunky oversized-early-2000’s-aesthetic era. The current Superocean dive watch lineup balances modern sensibilities with some vintage design cues, like the square-tipped minute hand.

The Superocean is available in three sizes, and the 36mm version looks great on small wrists. Personally I prefer the proportions of the 42 over the 44, but they all look good. Although it’s offered on a bracelet, I think the Superocean has one of the best rubber straps out there. The folding clasp’s quick-adjust function is a pleasure to use.

Breitling Superocean 42 Specs

ModelSuperocean 42
Reference NumberA17375E71G1S1
Case Diameter42mm
Case Thickness12.5mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementB17 (Base: ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1, Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve38 hours
Water Resistance300m
Bracelet/StrapRubber strap with folding clasp
MSRP (Feb. 2024)$5,000
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$3,900
Breitling Superocean 42 specs

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Entry-Level Luxury Watch from a New Brand: Norqain Wild One

I appreciate the fact that Norqain is a new watch company that, for once, didn’t buy an old brand name to revive and exaggerate about. They’re just making new watches, with no “heritage” whatsoever, and selling them on their merit alone. The first generation of Norqain watches was nice, but rather forgettable. They weren’t bringing anything particularly unique to the table. But since bringing on legendary watch industry executive Jean-Claude Biver as an advisor, the brand seems to have begun focusing on unique case materials and distinctive dials.

This approach has helped Norqain find their stride, and I think the Wild One is their best release yet. The first thing you’ll notice about the watch is that it is spectacularly light–the brand repeatedly mentions that the case is made of a proprietary carbon fiber composite called Norteq which is “3.5 times lighter than titanium.” Although it has been compared to the bioceramic cases of the Moonswatch models, it’s a step up from that.

Incredibly, the Wild One can withstand 5,000 G’s of acceleration. Its Kenissi movement combined with its rubbery crown provides an extremely satisfying winding feel, and the integrated rubber strap tapers perfectly around the wrist. Norqain’s only sins here are the lackluster movement finishing (I really don’t need an exhibition caseback on this), and their insistence on capitalized brand names. Officially, this is a “NORQAIN Wild ONE with a NORTEQ case,” although it’s pretty hard not to feel silly typing it like that. But, that didn’t stop me from picking one up. Written in all caps or not, I think Norqain has a bright future.

Norqain Wild One Specs

ModelIndependence Wild ONE
Reference NumberNNQ3000QUG1LA/G001 (Burgundy, limited to 200 pieces)
NNQ3000QBK1A/B002 (Olive green)
NNQ3000QBA1A/A001 (Blue)
NNQ3000QBT1A/T002 (Black-on-black)
Case Diameter42mm
Case Thickness12.3mm
Case MaterialNORTEQ (lightweight carbon fiber composite)
MovementNORQAIN/Kenissi Calibre NN20/1 (Automatic, 8 beats per second, can withstand 5,000 G’s)
Power Reserve70 hours
Water Resistance200m
Bracelet/StrapIntegrated grey rubber strap
MSRP (Feb. 2024)$5,690 (Burgundy, discontinued)
$5,290 (Other colors)
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$4,500-$5,000
Norqain Wild One specs

Entry-Level Luxury Dive Watch: Tudor Black Bay 58

Unlike Norqain, Tudor has a deep well of history to draw from–and they do, copiously. The vintage-Submariner-inspired Black Bay Fifty-Eight was a big hit upon its release in 2018. Its 39mm case is a sweet spot for many collectors. When a blue version was released two years later, that was a hot watch, too. But as with most hot Tudors, they eventually cooled down as other newer models came down the pipeline.

Now that some new Pelagos FXD models and the 37mm Black Bay 54 have come out, the ol’ Black Bay Fifty-Eight isn’t hard to get anymore. But that’s a good thing if you’re hoping to find an entry-level luxury watch under $4,000. Whether you choose a black or blue dial, the BB58 is a great dive watch and a very worthy one-watch collection.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Specs

ModelBlack Bay Fifty-Eight
Reference Number79030B (Blue)
79030N (Black)
Case Diameter39mm
Case Thickness11.9mm
Case MaterialStainless Steel
MovementCalibre MT5402 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve70 hours
Water Resistance200m
Bracelet/StrapSteel bracelet, fabric strap, synthetic suede strap, or leather strap
MSRP (Feb. 2024)$4,000 (Bracelet)
$3,675 (Strap)
Market Price (Feb. 2024)$3,300 (Bracelet)
$2,900 (Strap)
Tudor Black Bay 58 specs

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A Higher Level of “Entry-Level Luxury Watches”

So far I’ve covered entry-level luxury watches in the $5,000ish ballpark, but the terms “entry-level” and “luxury” are both relative. If a Tudor isn’t sufficiently luxurious for you, well, let’s discuss what it takes to get something good from some of the very top watch brands.

Although the Aquanaut is technically the entry-Level Patek Philippe watch, in reality, it sells for well over its list price. Meanwhile, Patek’s classic dress watch–the Calatrava–can be found under MSRP in various configurations. $15,000 can get you a model like ref. 3696J, with a hobnail bezel and ultra-clean time-only display. That same price is also just enough to get an entry-level A. Lange & Söhne watch like the exquisitely-finished Saxonia ref. 219.026.

More Entry-Level Watches from the Best of the Best:
Entry-Level Vacheron Constantin Watches
Entry-Level Patek Philippe Watches
Entry-Level A. Lange & Söhne Watches
Entry-Level Audemars Piguet Watches

The two “Holy Trinity” brands other than Patek–Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin–both have decent pre-owned men’s options starting in the $11,000 ballpark. The current entry-level Vacheron Constantin watch is the Fiftysix, a relatively new model that’s starting to gain some steam. And aside from some old boring dress watches, the cheapest Audemars Piguet worth getting for men is probably a vintage two-tone quartz version of the popular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The octagonal case wears large for its size, so even a 33mm model like ref. 56303SA is passably unisex.

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That should cover just about everything you need to know about the entry-level luxury watch landscape. If I overlooked your favorite one, let me know in the comments!