Opinion: Grand Seiko Makes Good Bracelets

Grand Seiko has been on a heater in the past decade. They’ve risen from an obscure luxury brand known mostly to hardcore enthusiasts, to a household name among even casual fans of luxury watches–and it’s well-deserved. One narrative has been rather persistent recently, though–that Grand Seiko bracelets are subpar. Any online discussion of Grand Seiko is likely to have at least one comment along the lines of “Yeah their watches look great; it’s just a shame Grand Seiko bracelets are so terrible!” In my opinion this is an absolute myth. I’ll explain why.

Finishing

Even most naysayers of Grand Seiko bracelets will agree that their finishing is outstanding. Very high-quality brushing, with polished accents in some cases. Solid all-around.

The machined clasps look and feel excellent. I have a 15-year-old Grand Seiko with a clasp that still “clicks” shut as crisply as newer ones. These are definitely durable bracelets. So why do they get hated on so much?

Lack of Quick-Adjust

Well, it’s true that Grand Seiko bracelets do not have any sort of micro-adjust function (aside from the diver’s extensions on their dive watches, if you count that). Clasps with modern quick-adjust functionality have gained popularity very rapidly, to the point that collectors have started to expect them. But there’s always a tradeoff–Grand Seiko clasps would surely have to be larger (and likely less comfortable) to accommodate such a mechanism. Plus, that’s just more parts that can go wrong–Grand Seikos are engineered with the long haul in mind.

2/3-Links

Most people can get a Grand Seiko to fit well if they have the correct number of links, and it may help to add or remove a half-link. Cleverly, Grand Seiko’s “half-link” is actually a “2/3-length link.” It’s smart because by choosing to use one, two, or none of these smaller links, you can actually be precise to within 1/3 the length of a regular link. Want it 1/3-link longer? Replace a 2/3-link with a full link, and so forth.

If you need more links for your GS, you can always hit up Seiko Service at 1-800-722-4452. They’re not stingy with their parts like Rolex is; you should be able to get any links you need mailed to your door no problem.

Grand Seiko Bracelets are Not Saggy

GS’s can pass the “bracelet sag test” with flying colors. Although some of their bracelets aren’t as tight as, say, a Rolex Oyster bracelet, they’re not meant to be. Grand Seiko also makes an Oyster-style bracelet and when you hold it straight out to the side, you can see how rock solid it is:

Grand Seiko Bracelets: In Conclusion

All in all, although Grand Seiko doesn’t make the most original bracelet designs (they basically copy both the Rolex Oyster and the Omega Bullet), they are made very well. Contrary to some popular narratives you may see online, I think Grand Seiko bracelets feel right at home on a $6,000+ watch. Rolex bracelets are better, sure, but I can’t think of many other brands that have a clearcut advantage in the bracelet department.

A quick-adjust clasp would be a cool feature, but the old-fashioned one they use now is well-made, reliable, and small (and thus comfortable). I don’t need quick-adjust clasps on every bracelet I own. If you do, though, you can always skip the bracelet entirely and consider one of the many excellent Grand Seikos on leather straps.

More on Grand Seiko:
Grand Seiko 2024 Releases
Opinion: Grand Seiko’s Marketing Department Needs to Get it Together