Tudor vs. Rolex: How Do They Stack Up Now?

Powerfunk Tuesday, July 16th, 2024 6 min. read
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For decades, the Tudor vs. Rolex argument was fairly simple: are you OK with an ETA movement and a less famous logo? If so, get the Tudor; it’s basically a Rolex with a cheaper movement. Tudor was originally created to be a more affordable alternative to Rolex, and their watches were mostly “equivalents” of Rolex models until about 1998. It’s doubtful that Tudor will ever entirely escape from their Rolex-derived roots, but they’ve forged a legitimate identity of their own at this point. Although it’s not wrong to view Tudor as Rolex’s little brother, the Tudor vs. Rolex discussion isn’t so simple anymore.

Tudor vs Rolex
Rolex’s booth dwarfed Tudor’s at Watches and Wonders 2024.

Is Tudor Part of Rolex or Not?

Technically, Tudor is a sister company of Rolex–they’re both under the umbrella of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation. Tudor was originally owned by Rolex, though, and many employees have been cross-trained to work on both brands. And let’s not forget that they both released a new steel Pepsi GMT in the same year (2018), so they have no qualms about inviting the Tudor vs. Rolex discussions. Plus, historically, all Tudors were assembled at Rolex HQ in Geneva.

If you’re old enough to remember the band Papa Roach, it’s likely that you think “Tudor is Rolex.” Younger watch fans, however, can be confused why Tudor is so often discussed on Rolex forums. They’re more likely to view Tudor as its “own thing,” especially because since 2023, all final assembly of Tudor watches happens at their own facility in Le Locle.

The Tudor vs. Rolex discussion has changed now that Tudor has their own factory
Tudor/Kenissi headquarters in Le Locle, Switzerland. Photo: Tudor

Notably, though, that factory sits on land leased from Rolex, and there’s no such thing as a “Tudor Service Center” yet. Rolex Service Centers are the ones that perform Tudor warranty work. So, now that we’ve given you some context for the Tudor vs. Rolex discussion, let’s get to who’s “better.”

Tudor vs. Rolex: Overview

CategoryWhich Brand WinsNote
AccuracyRolexEvery new Rolex is guaranteed to run between -2 and +2 seconds per day. Meanwhile, some Tudors still have non-chronometer Sellita movements. Some Tudors are Master Chronometers (between +0 and +5 seconds per day) though, so Tudor is trying to close the gap.
ServiceabilityRolexRolex movements are generally a pleasure for watchmakers to work on and can often go a decade between services. Tudor/Kenissi movements are good but when you send yours in for service, you’ll just get a whole new or remanufactured movement swapped in.
Chronograph MovementsRolexThe Breitling B01-based movements in Tudor’s chronographs are rock solid, but the outstanding Rolex 4131 chronograph movement is a cut above.
BraceletsRolexTudor bracelets are fine, and their T-Fit clasps are universally praised. But they’re not even made in Switzerland anymore. Rolex’s iconic bracelets, with either Glidelock or Easy-Link clasps, are tough to beat.
Strap OptionsTieTudor offers fabric straps, synthetic suede straps, Bund straps, and rubber straps–much more choice than Rolex offers. Rolex makes the Oysterflex bracelet, though–the best elastomer strap in the game. So we’ll call it even.
ValueTudorYes, a Rolex is a nicer overall watch than a Tudor. But the fact that it’s even a discussion is somewhat notable, because typically Tudors can be found for 1/3 of the price of a comparable Rolex. In the entry-level luxury watch world, few brands can match Tudor’s value proposition.
Magnetic ResistanceTudorAny Tudor labeled a “Master Chronometer” is guaranteed to resist up to 15,000 gauss. Rolex movements are also very good when it comes to magnetic resistance, but Tudor gets the win here.
ComfortRolexRolexes are generally thinner than comparable Tudors, and the Oyster case is quite comfortable. Some Tudor casebacks are a bit slab-like.
AR CoatingTieBoth brands use anti-reflective coating only on the underside of the sapphire crystal.
Stainless SteelRolexRolex’s Oystersteel (904L) is more corrosion resistant than the 316L stainless steel Tudor uses. (See our 904L vs. 316L steel breakdown)
LegibilityTudorLume is comparable between the two brands. Tudor typically uses slightly larger hands and case sizes which give it a slight edge in the legibility department. The Tudor Pelagos, with its lumed bezel, probably has the best legibility of any collection between the two brands.
Tudor vs. Rolex head-to-head breakdown

Tudor Ranger vs. Rolex Explorer

The most asked-about head-to-head matchup when it comes to Tudor vs. Rolex is between the Ranger and the Explorer. Both are classic time-only “GADA watches” that are only offered in stainless steel with black dials.

Tudor Ranger vs. Rolex Explorer
Tudor ref. 79950 and Rolex ref. 124270

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Side by side, the Rolex Explorer does look more luxurious, thanks to white gold hour surrounds and some tastefully polished edges. But the Tudor Ranger is no slouch, and if you want more of an under-the-radar matte look, it’s a solid choice–especially at 1/3 the price of the Rolex. The Tudor Ranger vs. Rolex Explorer decision usually boils down to price–but not always. Here’s how they stack up:

Ranger vs. Explorer Specs

ModelTudor Ranger (Current)Tudor Ranger (Previous)Rolex Explorer 36Rolex Explorer 39 (Discontinued)Rolex Explorer 40
Reference Number7995079910124270214270224270
Year Introduced20222014202120102023
Case Material316L Stainless Steel316L Stainless SteelOystersteel (904L)Oystersteel (904L)Oystersteel (904L)
Case Diameter39mm41mm36mm39mm40mm
Case Thickness12mm12.2mm11.5mm12.1mm11.5mm
Lug-to-Lug47mm50mm44mm47.4mm46.5mm
Lug Width20mm22mm19mm20mm21mm
Depth Rating100m150m100m100m100m
Movement CaliberMT5402ETA 2824323031323230
Power Reserve70 hours38 hours70 hours48 hours70 hours
Quick-Adjust ClaspT-FitNoEasy-LinkEasy-LinkEasy-Link
Market Price (July 2024)$2,700 (bracelet)
$2,400 (strap)
$2,300 (bracelet)
$1,950 (strap)
$7,900$7,500$8,400
Tudor Ranger vs. Rolex Explorer

Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner

One advantage that Tudor’s steel dive watch, the Black Bay, has over the Rolex Submariner is the choice of three different sizes. The Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58 are 37mm and 39mm, respectively, while the standard Black Bay has the same diameter as the current Sub–41mm.

Black Bay (left) and Submariner (right)
Tudor ref. 79410A1 and Rolex ref. 124060

The Rolex Submariner 124060 has a greater depth rating than the Black Bay, not that it really matters (300m vs. 200m) and it also has a fancier bezel insert, made of ceramic rather than old-school aluminum. There aren’t too many more objective advantages for the Sub, although I would give it a slight edge in both winding and bezel feel. Lots of collectors own both and give the Black Bay plenty of wrist time. Let’s put the specs of the newest 41mm Tudor Black Bay head-to-head vs. Rolex’s current Submariner:

Black Bay vs. Submariner Specs

ModelTudor Black Bay 41 Master ChronometerRolex Submariner
Reference Number7941A1A0RU (Burgundy bezel insert)
7941A1A0NU (Black bezel insert)
124060
Year Introduced2023 (Burgundy)
2024 (Black)
2020
Case Material316L Stainless SteelOystersteel (904L)
Case Diameter41mm41mm
Case Thickness13.6mm12.5mm
Lug-to-Lug50mm47.6mm
Lug Width22mm21mm
Depth Rating200m300m
Bezel InsertAluminumCeramic
Movement CaliberTudor MT5602-1U (Automatic, 8 beats per second)Rolex 3230 (Automatic, 8 beats per second)
Power Reserve70 hours70 hours
Chronometer CertificationMETAS Master Chronometer (0 to +5 seconds per day)Superlative Chronometer (-2 to +2 seconds per day)
Quick-Adjust ClaspT-FitGlidelock
MSRP (July 2024)$4,225 on rubber strap (Oyster bracelet add $200, Jubilee add $325)$8,950
Market Price (July 2024)~$4,700 (Black)
~$3,850 (Burgundy)
~$12,700
Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner specs

More on Rolex:
Rolex’s Bucherer Acquisition Approved by European Regulators
Rolex 16610 Submariner: A Collector’s Guide
New Rolex 2024 Models: Lots of Gold and Diamonds and Only One Steel Watch
Here’s Every Model Rolex Discontinued in 2024
Omega vs. Rolex: Who Makes Better Watches?

Ladies’ Watches

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 ref. 277200

Entry-level Rolexes for ladies like the Oyster Perpetual and Datejust are very popular in both 28mm and 31mm sizes. Ladies’ watches seem like more of an afterthought for Tudor–the 28mm and 34mm Royal models aren’t bad, but the 1926 and Clair de Rose lineups never picked up much steam. When it comes to new Tudor ladies’ watches vs. Rolex ladies’ watches, Rolex is definitely the sales leader.

There are some cool vintage Tudor options for women, though, like the 33mm Mini-Sub or even the 35mm mid-size Tudor Submariner.

Midsize Tudor Submariner
Tudor Submariner ref. 75090 (35mm)

When it comes to two-tone Rolex vs. Tudor models, it’s worth noting that Rolex uses solid gold center links, while Tudor uses thick layers of bonded gold. It’s a lot better than mere gold plating, but still, nothing beats solid gold.

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All in all, it’s not surprising that most of the arguments in the Tudor vs. Rolex debate fall in Rolex’s favor, as they’re the top luxury watch brand in the world and their watches tend to cost several times what a Tudor costs. While Tudor is often viewed as a gateway to Rolex, a growing number of collectors–myself included–have used Rolex as a gateway to Tudor. They’ve certainly carved out a nice place for themselves.

More on Tudor:
Tudor Chronograph Collector’s Guide
The Tudor Hydronaut Era: The Bold, Blocky, Forgotten Watches of the Early 2000’s
Guide To The Best Tudor Watch Models
Long-Term Review: Two Years with the Tudor Royal 41mm
Tudor Pelagos Collector’s Guide: Every Pelagos Reference Explained

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