Grand Seiko Titanium Watches Explained
Titanium Grand Seiko watches are some of their most popular models, but the types of titanium alloys they’ve used can be confusing. There are actually only two: “high-intensity titanium” and the newer and costlier “Brilliant Hard Titanium,” with an exceptional hardness rating. You may hear these alloys called by different names, however, so in this article we’ll give you a quick coherent breakdown of the titanium Grand Seiko lineup over the years.
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Types of Titanium Alloys Used by Grand Seiko
| Type of Titanium | Also Known As | Visual Appearance | Grand Seiko Debut Year | Cheapest Model (2024) | Hardness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High-intensity titanium | Bright titanium Brightz titanium | Slightly duller and more “grey” than steel | 2000 | $3,800 | 250-350 HV |
| Brilliant Hard Titanium | Ever-Brilliant Titanium | Brighter than steel | 2017 | $8,300 | ~400 HV |
Timeline of Notable Grand Seiko Titanium Watches
- 2000 – SBGR011: This unassuming automatic time-and-date model, with a high-intensity titanium case and 12-sided bezel, is Grand Seiko’s first titanium watch.
- 2004 – SBGA005: The first titanium Grand Seiko Spring Drive model sports a green dial with a fir tree pattern.
- 2010 – SBGA011: The “Snowflake” debuts with the most iconic Grand Seiko dial texture yet. Later replaced by SBGA211.
- 2014 – SBGJ011: The first titanium high-beat Grand Seiko is a GMT model with a high-intensity titanium case and Caliber 9S86 movement.
- 2016 – SBGC015: Grand Seiko makes their first titanium/ceramic combo model, featuring a high-intensity titanium case within a ceramic case on a leather strap. The next year they make a model (SBGC219) on a bracelet with ceramic center links and titanium outer links.
- 2017 – SBGR305: The first Brilliant Hard Titanium Model shows improved scratch resistance and a brighter luster than other titanium alloys.
- 2020 – SBGW259: The first hand-wound mechanical watch in Brilliant Hard Titanium is released in celebration of Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary.
- 2024 – SLGW003: The first Evolution 9 model made of Brilliant Hard Titanium features a birch bark dial texture.
Do Grand Seiko Watches Have a Diashield Coating?
Grand Seikos do not have Seiko’s Diashield coating. Some regular Seiko models are made out of grade 2 titanium (grades 1-4 are “commercially pure” titanium) and have Diashield coatings to enhance scratch resistance. But Grand Seikos are never made out of pure titanium–always titanium alloys that are harder than pure titanium.
Plus, philosophically, Grand Seiko products are meant to be able to be restored to their original standards for decades to come. And although Diashield is a high-quality surface treatment, it can’t exactly be Zaratsu polished, so it is relegated to non-grand Seikos.
While pure titanium is harder than stainless steel at the surface due to its titanium dioxide layer, that layer is very thin. Titanium forms a natural oxide layer when exposed to air, and that very hard layer provides excellent corrosion resistance. However, this layer can be scratched through relatively easily. This is why Seiko (but not Grand Seiko) uses scratch-resistant surface treatments on their pure titanium watches. Just to reiterate: Grand Seikos are never made out of commercially pure titanium, only alloys.
What Grade of Titanium Alloy Is It?
Both high-intensity titanium and Brilliant Hard Titanium are “exclusive to Grand Seiko. As they are Grand Seiko exclusive alloys, they aren’t given a grade as such” according to Grand Seiko UK. Although some say that high-intensity titanium seems comparable to grade 5 titanium (specifically JIS60 titanium), the hardness rating of Brilliant Hard Titanium likely exceeds that of most commercially standard alloys. Grand Seiko claims Brilliant Hard Titanium is twice as hard as stainless steel, which would probably give it a Vickers hardness around 400 HV.
High-Intensity Titanium vs. Brilliant Hard Titanium
Brilliant Hard Titanium is Grand Seiko’s more upscale titanium alloy, only offered on watches with list prices above $8,000. Its increased hardness is achieved without sacrificing any of the lightness that titanium is known for. Meanwhile the high-intensity titanium quartz Snowflake, for example, is available for under $4,000. Impressively, Brilliant Hard Titanium is actually brighter than stainless steel, while typical titanium alloys (including high-intensity titanium) are a bit more dull and “greyish” than steel.
Even though Brilliant Hard Titanium is the harder and brighter alloy, high-intensity titanium is no slouch. Both alloys are well-suited to luxury watchmaking and are extremely lightweight and strong. The first Brilliant Hard Titanium model was released in 2017, and the next ones were years apart (2020 and 2023).
Titanium alloys are, after all, notoriously challenging to machine. However, the SLGW003 debuted in 2024, possibly indicating increasing production capacity for the newer alloy. Time will tell if both alloys will remain in the GS catalog, or if Brilliant Hard Titanium will ultimately supersede high-intensity titanium across the lineup.
More on Grand Seiko:
Hot Take: Grand Seiko Makes Good Bracelets
Grand Seiko Watches and Wonders 2024 Releases
Why Grand Seiko’s Marketing Department Needs to Get it Together
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