GREY MARKET MAGAZINE https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/ BY LUXURY BAZAAR Tue, 19 Nov 2024 22:44:51 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7 https://i0.wp.com/www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/cropped-cropped-lb_icon3.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 GREY MARKET MAGAZINE https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/ 32 32 233873445 2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/2024-audemars-piguet-watch-releases/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/2024-audemars-piguet-watch-releases/#respond Tue, 19 Nov 2024 16:20:43 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/2024-audemars-piguet-watch-releases/ It used to be the norm for watch brands to release one big batch of watches during the year. However, […]

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It used to be the norm for watch brands to release one big batch of watches during the year. However, it’s becoming more common for watchmakers to introduce models throughout the year, and Audemars Piguet is fully leaning into that strategy. AP has announced a few major drops of many watches in 2024, accompanied by smaller announcements every month or so. This has resulted in a massive batch of fresh AP watches just this year. From never-before-seen materials and limited edition collaborations to fresh iterations of fan favorites, let’s get to all the 2024 Audemars Piguet watch releases, including specs and prices.

2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases

2024 AP Royal Oak Releases

As Audemars Piguet’s hero collection, it comes as no surprise that the Royal Oak lineup welcomed the most new models from the brand.

Royal Oak Gem-Set Selfwinding 41mm

Gem-Set Royal Oaks in camouflage and graduated motifs
Gem-Set Royal Oaks in camouflage and graduated motifs (Image: Audemars Piguet)

Flaunting its creative gem-setting techniques, Audemars Piguet released a pair of white gold Royal Oak 41 models blanketed in 861 baguette-cut stones. The first, in shades of green, brown, and black, offers up a camouflage pattern whereas the blue version leans into a graduated motif.

Audemars Piguet gemologist, Samira Ribeaucourt explains: “To create a harmonious camouflage effect that could be repeated throughout the watch, we carefully selected a variety of gemstones, including some rarely used in the watchmaking industry. The use of tsavorites, smoky quartz, and black sapphires for the green timepiece and Swiss blue topaz combined with blue sapphires for the blue version allowed us to enrich the color palette and achieve more subtle gradations. Finally, the invisible setting enhances the tone of each gemstone, giving the two timepieces volume and depth.”

ModelRoyal Oak 41
Reference15514BC.YY.1284BC.02 – Green Camouflage
15514BC.YY.1284BC.04 – Blue Graduated
Case Size41mm diameter
11.6mm thick
DialDial set with baguette-cut graded black sapphires, tsavorites, and smoky quartz or baguette-cut graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BraceletWhite gold set with baguette-cut stones
MovementCaliber 4309
Automatic winding
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, central seconds
Retail Prices (MSRP)Upon Request
Royal Oak Gem-Set Selfwinding 41mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37mm

Frosted yellow gold Royal Oak
Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm (Image: AP)

Frosted gold has been a favorite decorative technique of Audemars Piguet over the last few years, cherished for its textured hammered finish and shimmery effect. One version that joined the lineup in 2024 is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm in yellow gold.

The watch includes a vintage-inspired smoked gold dial on a flat surface rather than a patterned tapisserie motif that’s typical of a Royal Oak watch. The dial includes a date window at 3 o’clock, and the back of the watch shows us the new-gen Caliber 5900 automatic movement that drives the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm models.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm
Reference15550BA.GG.1356BA.01
Case MaterialYellow gold, hammered finish
Case Size37mm diameter
9.1mm thick
DialSmoked yellow-gold-toned dial with sunburst motif, yellow gold applied hour markers and hands
BraceletYellow gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5900
60-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$66,300
Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold 37mm Watch Specs

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Royal Oak Gem-Set Selfwinding 37mm

2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm in pink gold with diamonds and sapphires
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm in pink gold with diamonds and sapphires (Image: AP)

No surprises here, but 2024 Audemars Piguet watch releases include a solid variety of gem-set models. For instance, AP unveiled a pair of lavish Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm watches, one in white gold with diamonds and the other in pink gold with diamonds and sapphires.

The case and bezel of the white gold gem-set Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm includes 122 brilliant-cut diamonds, in addition to 40 brilliant-cut diamonds across the four studs that span across the case and strap. This version is combined with a light green Grande Tapisserie dial and a pearly green alligator strap.

Conversely, the case of the pink gold gem-set Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm piece includes 82 brilliant-cut diamonds (and 40 brilliant-cut diamonds on the studs) while the bezel is set with 40 brilliant-cut graded blue sapphires. Complementing the bezel are the light blue Grande Tapisserie dial and the light blue pearly alligator strap.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding 37mm Gem-Set
References15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01 (White Gold)
15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01 (Pink Gold)
Case Material18k white gold case and bezel set with 122 brilliant-cut diamonds; studs set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds
18k pink gold case set with 82 brilliant-cut diamonds; bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut graded blue sapphires; studs set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds
Case Size37mm diameter
9.0mm thick
DialLight green Grande Tapisserie
Light blue Grande Tapisserie
BraceletPearly green alligator strap
Pearly blue alligator strap
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5900
60-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$65,900
Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm Gem-Set Watch Specs

Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm

TT Royal Oak

Another 2024 Audemars Piguet watch release is the duo of new Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm watches, one in pink gold and the other in two-tone steel and pink gold.

The two-tone variant is furnished with a gray dial whereas the full gold version flaunts a vivid pink dial. Both versions run on the automatic Caliber 5800 movement, which offers about 50 hours of power reserve.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding 34
References77450SR.OO.1361SR.03 (Stainless Steel/Pink Gold)
77450OR.OO.1361OR.01 (Pink Gold)
Case MaterialStainless steel case, 18-carat pink gold bezel and crown
18k pink gold case
Case Size34mm diameter
8.8mm thick
DialGray Grande Tapisserie
Pink Grande Tapisserie
BraceletTwo-tone steel/pink gold
Pink gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5800
50-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)77450SR: $28,700
77450OR: $53,000
Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm

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Royal Oak 77450BC.GG.1361BC.01 (Image: Audemars Piguet)

For 2024, Audemars Piguet also expanded its Frosted Gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm collection with two new models — one in yellow gold and one in white gold — both furnished with special “Crystal Sand” finished dials.

Between the hammered finish of the case and bracelet and the crystal-like surface of the dial, these monochromatic Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm watches lean on texture and light for contrast rather than color. As is customary for 34mm Royal Oaks since 2020, this pair of AP watches runs on Caliber 5800, a self-winding movement with 50 hours of power reserve.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is Frosted-Gold-Royal-Oak-Crystal-Dial-77450BA-GG-1361BA-01-1024x683.jpg
Royal Oak 77450BA.GG.1361BA.01 (Image: Audemars Piguet
ModelRoyal Oak Frosted Selfwinding 34
References77450BA.GG.1361BA.01 – Yellow Frosted Gold
77450BC.GG.1361BC.01 – White Frosted Gold
Case34mm diameter
8.8mm thick
DialElectroformed “Crystal Sand” dial in yellow gold or rhodium
BraceletHammered 18k gold bracelet with AP folding clasp
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5800
50-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$62,100
Frosted Gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz

23mm Mini Oak Frosted Gold watches (Image: Audemars Piguet)
23mm Mini Oak Frosted Gold watches (Image: Audemars Piguet)

We’ve said it many times before but small watches are having a moment — and in 2024, Audemars Piguet was more than happy to oblige with a new set of “Mini Oak” watches in frosted gold. Available in yellow, white, and rose gold, these small Royal Oak watches measure a dainty 23mm in diameter, which is only slightly larger than the 1997 20mm Royal Oaks the new models drew inspiration from.

The Mini Oak watches may be petite in proportions but they still pack a punch thanks to their hammered frosted gold finish that mimics diamond dust. The time-only dials, decorated with the famed Petite Tapisserie hobnail pattern, are rendered in a shade to match the cases and bracelets. Inside the 2024 Mini Oak watches are quartz movements with a seven-year battery life.

Yellow Gold Frosted Gold Mini Oak
Yellow Frosted Gold Mini Oak (Image: Audemars Piguet)
ModelRoyal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 33mm
Reference67630BA.GG.1312BA.01 – Yellow Frosted Gold
67630OR.GG.1312OR.01 – Rose Frosted Gold
67630BC.GG.1312BC.01 – White Frosted Gold
Case Size33mm diameter
6.6mm thick
DialPetite Tapisserie pattern
BraceletHammered 18k gold bracelet with AP folding clasp.
MovementCaliber 2730
Quartz powered
94-month battery life
FunctionsHours and minutes
Retail Prices (MSRP)$34,000
Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 33mm Watch Specs

More about Women’s Watches:
The Best Women’s Dive Watches – 37mm and Under
Women’s Rolex Watch Guide
Cartier Women’s Watch Guide
The Best Women’s Watches from Watches & Wonders 2024

Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph

2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases - Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 Yellow Gold
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm (Image: AP)

A new variation of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm joined the catalog, this time in 18k yellow gold. Along with the yellow gold case and bracelet, Audemars Piguet opted to use a yellow gold-toned Grand Tapisserie dial that darkens to black at the periphery. We’ve seen this dial execution before on another yellow gold watch by AP — the 50th anniversary “Jumbo” — and it’s a great look on a solid gold timepiece. The dial includes a trio of gold-toned counters, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and 18k yellow gold hands and hour markers.

The sapphire caseback shows off the automatic Caliber 4401 flyback chronograph movement powering the piece, ticking at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour and supplying 70 hours of power reserve.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
Reference26240BA.OO.1320BA.02
Case Material18k yellow gold
Case Size41mm diameter
12.4mm thick
DialSmoked yellow gold-toned dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern, applied yellow gold hour-markers and hands
Bracelet18k yellow gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 4401
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$75,900 
Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition

2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases - Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar "John Mayer" Limited Edition
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition (Image: AP)

No stranger to collaborations, Audemars Piguet has teamed up with the most high-profile celebrity watch collector —musician John Mayer. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition is fashioned from 18k white gold and houses a deep blue textured dial that the brand calls “Crystal Sky.” The captivating dial features sharp angles and facets to mimic crystals, which were formed via a metal deposition process known as electroforming.

Aside from the new dial pattern, John Mayer also added other subtle modifications such as replacing the customary red “31” on the date indication with a white one that’s also smaller and stepped. He also opted for a light blue date pointer with the idea that it could fade into the background when not needed but also be easy to spot when necessary.

Like preceding Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar watches, the “John Mayer” runs on the extra-thin Caliber 5134 automatic movement, which debuted in 2015 but is based on the legendary Caliber 2120/2800 released in 1978. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition will be the swan song of Caliber 5134. John Mayer has also been bestowed the “Creative Conduit” title by Audemars Piguet, so expect more creations from the mind of the musician in the near future.

ModelRoyal Oak Perpetual Calendar, “John Mayer” Limited Edition
Reference26574BC.OO.1220BC.02
Case Material18k white gold
Case Size41mm diameter
9.5mm thick
DialBlue “Crystal Sky”
Bracelet18k white gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5134
40-hour power reserve
FunctionsPerpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)$180,700
Limited to 200 pieces
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Limited Edition Watch Specs

Further Reading:
What is a Perpetual Calendar Watch? 
A Tour of John Mayer Watches

Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

2024 Audemars Piguet flying tourbillon model
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm (Image: AP)

A pair of new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon variants were added to the AP catalog, one in pink gold and the other in stainless steel. The pink gold model is paired with a sandblasted gray dial whereas the steel version is fitted with a smoked burgundy sunburst dial.

Both versions sport 41mm cases and matching integrated bracelets. The star of the dial is the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, accompanied only by the duo of time-telling hands at the center. At the heart of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon watches is the automatic Calibre 2950 movement, visible through the sapphire caseback.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm
Reference26730ST.OO.1320ST.05 – Stainless Steel
26730OR.OO.1320OR.03 – Pink Gold
Case Size41mm diameter
10.6mm thick
DialSmoked burgundy sunburst dial, white gold applied hour markers and hands (26730ST)
Sandblasted grey dial with ivory minute scale, pink gold applied hour markers and hands (26730OR)
BraceletStainless Steel (26730ST)
Pink Gold (26730OR)
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 2950
65-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Retail Prices (MSRP)Ref. 26730ST: CHF 146,700 (Approx $167,500)
Ref. 26730OR: CHF 180,600 (Approx $206,200)
Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Sand Gold

2024 Audemars Piguet Releases Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Sand Gold (Image: AP)

Audemars Piguet debuted a brand new 18k gold alloy called Sand Gold, which sits somewhere between white and pink gold and changes color depending on how the light hits it. According to the brand, Sand Gold is also fade-resistant. AP introduced the new material on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41, complete with matching sand-gold-toned bridges and mainplate in the visible movement. That movement is Caliber 2972, introduced in 2022 for the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary.

The open-worked dial is home to a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, accompanied by white gold hour and minute hands at the center and white gold hour markers along the sand-gold-toned rehaut. The 41mm sand gold case is paired with a matching sand gold integrated bracelet.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
Reference26735SG.OO.1320SG.01
Case Material18k sand gold
Case Size41mm diameter
10.6mm thick
DialOpen-worked with white gold applied hour markers and hands
Bracelet18k sand gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 2972
65-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)CHF  250,000 (approx. $285,000)
Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Sand Watch Specs

Further Reading:
What is a Tourbillon Watch? 
Proprietary Gold Alloys in Watchmaking: Sedna, Everose, Magic Gold and More

Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3

2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3)
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) (Image: AP)

Audemars Piguet rounded out its Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) collection with a new 18k white gold version in 37mm. The white gold case is further embellished with baguette-cut diamonds while the Petite Tapisserie dial is rendered in smoked blue and punctuated with diamond hour markers and a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

This is the third iteration of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3), the first two (one in 39mm and the other in 37mm) were made in steel and released to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. Like the others, the white gold Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) runs on the ultra-thin automatic Caliber 2968, which measures a mere 3.4mm thick.

ModelRoyal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3)
Reference26660BC.ZZ.1356BC.01
Case MaterialWhite gold case, bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds
Case Size37mm diameter
8.1mm thick
DialSmoked blue dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern, 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers
BraceletWhite gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 2968
50-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlying tourbillon, hours and minutes.
Retail Price (MSRP)CHF 240,000 (Approx. $274,000)
Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) Watch Specs

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked

2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked White Gold
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked (Image: AP)

Audemars Piguet added to its Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked collection by unveiling a white gold version — set to join the already-existing pink gold, yellow gold, and white gold variants.

Like its predecessors, the white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked features a 39mm case, topped with the signature octagonal bezel and paired with the famed integrated AP bracelet. The skeletonized dial provides a view of the Caliber 7124 automatic movement beating away inside the watch, treated in different shades of anthracite grey to retain the sleek monochromatic tone of the watch while also providing appealing contrasts.

ModelRoyal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked
Reference16204BC.00.1240BC.01
Case Material18k white gold
Case Size39mm diameter
8.1mm thick
DialOpen-worked with white gold applied hour-markers and hands
Bracelet18k white gold
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 7124
57-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)$124,100
Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Watch Specs

Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41mm

Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in yellow gold, black ceramic, and stainless steel
Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in yellow gold, black ceramic, and stainless steel (Image: Audemars Piguet)

Three new references join the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 collection in 2024, in stainless steel, black ceramic, and 18k yellow gold. Regardless of the case material, what’s front and center is the Caliber 3132, flaunting its stunning open-worked architecture.

The steel and black ceramic versions include a new pink gold movement whereas the yellow gold model houses an anthracite grey one. The resulting effect is a very cool take on the two-tone timepiece.

ModelRoyal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41mm
References15407ST.OO.1220ST.02- Stainless Steel
15407BA.OO.1220BA.01 – Yellow Gold
15416CE.OO.1225CE.02 – Black Ceramic
Case41mm diameter
9.9mm thick
DialOpen-worked
Bracelet/Strap Integrated bracelet in a material that matches the case
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 3132
45-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds,
Retail Price (MSRP)$76,400 (Stainless Steel)
$101,100 (Yellow gold and Black Ceramic)
Limited Edition150 examples in black ceramic
Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

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A pair of new references were added to the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm range, one in white gold with a light blue inner bezel and a one in pink gold with a purple inner bezel. The dials offer a view of the striking open-worked Caliber 3132 inside the watches.

In addition to the case-matching integrated bracelets, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked models also come with an additional leather strap, color-matched to the inner bezel rings.

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ModelRoyal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm
References15467OR.OO.1256OR.02- Rose Gold
15467BC.OO.1256BC.01 – White Gold
Case37mm diameter
10mm thick
DialBlue or purple inner bezel
Bracelet/Strap18k gold integrated bracelet
Additional leather strap (blue or purple)
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 3132
45-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds,
Retail Price (MSRP)$98,100
Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm Watch Specs

2024 AP Royal Oak Offshore Releases

The beefier Royal Oak Offshore collection also debuted a few new models for 2024, including some unexpected non-chronograph versions.

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 41mm

2024 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
2024 Audemars Piguet Watch Releases: Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm (Image: AP)

If you’re familiar with Royal Oak Offshore models, you’ll know that the vast majority of them are chronographs. On rare occasions, such as this model that’s part of the 2024 Audemars Piguet watch releases, AP will introduce a non-chronograph version. Meet the time-and-date Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding in stainless steel and blue rubber.

The 43mm steel case is crowned with a blue rubber-coated octagonal bezel, which matches the blue rubber strap beautifully (an additional black rubber strap accompanies the watch). The color theme continues with the smoked blue Méga Tapisserie dial, home to the trio of hands at the center and a color-matched date window at 3 o’clock. There are also resigned crown guards that are more shapely than previous versions. The sapphire caseback reveals the automatic Caliber 4302 powering the new Royal Oak Offshore.

ModelRoyal Oak Offshore 43mm
Reference15605SK.OO.A350CA.01
Case MaterialStainless steel
Case Size43mm diameter
14.4mm thick
DialSmoked blue dial with Méga Tapisserie pattern, rhodium-toned gold applied hour-markers and hands
BraceletBlue rubber strap
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 4302
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$27,800
Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Watch Specs

Further Reading:
All About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

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Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 37mm

Accompanying the larger non-chronograph Offshore is the more compact Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 37, featuring a grey rubber-clad bezel paired with an 18k pink gold case and a rhodium and ivory guilloché dial in the signature Grand Tapisserie pattern. A date window sits at 3 o’clock, alongside pink-gold hour markers and trapezoidal hands. The grey inner bezel blends seamlessly into the overall design for a polished, cohesive look.

Royal Oak Offshore 37 (Image: Audemars Piguet)

The watch comes with a grey rubber strap that has a unique mosaic texture, reminiscent of the one featured on the Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition. With the quick interchangeability system, the strap can be swapped for a black rubber alternative with a matching mosaic effect. The sapphire caseback reveals the Caliber 5900 movement, an automatic 4 Hz engine launched in 2022, delivering a 60-hour power reserve.

ModelRoyal Oak Offshore 37mm
Reference77605OK.OO.A101CA.01
Case Material18k pink gold
Case Size37mm diameter
12.1mm thick
DialIvory Grande Tapisserie dial, pink gold applied hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating.
BraceletGrey strap with “mosaic effect”
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5900
60-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds, and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$47,200
Royal Oak Offshore 37mm Watch Specs

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

Not forgetting the chronograph complication, Audemars Piguet also released the stainless steel Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm. On top of its steel case is a matching steel bezel — the only steel bezel option in the current ROO 43mm collection, so far. There are also black ceramic pushers and a winding crown.

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43 (Image: Audemars Piguet)

The smoked bronze Méga Tapisserie dial is said to be inspired by Habanos cigars; three black subdials with white accents sit on the textured dial, matching the black-and-white tachymeter scale on the inner bezel. The date window is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock. The chronograph is paired with a brown alligator leather strap, finished with a hand-applied Oxford patina; however, it also comes with an interchangeable black rubber strap for a more casual look. Powering this timepiece is the Caliber 4401, a 4 Hz movement featuring a vertical clutch and column wheel, along with a flyback function, delivering a 70-hour power reserve.

ModelRoyal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43mm
Reference26420ST.OO.A828CR.01
Case MaterialStainless steel
Case Size43mm diameter
14.4mm thick
DialSmoked bronze dial with “Méga Tapisserie” pattern
Black counters
White gold applied hour-markers with black coating
Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
BraceletNew brown alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Additional black rubber strap.
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 4401
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlyback chronograph
Hours, minutes, small seconds and date
Retail Price (MSRP)$41,600
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43mm Watch Specs

2024 AP Royal Oak Concept Release

The Royal Oak Concept is Audemars Piguet’s most advanced collection, featuring pieces with cutting-edge materials, complicated movements, and just as importantly, a modern design approach to the classic Royal Oak.

AP x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”

As mentioned, Audemars Piguet loves a collab. And New York-based artist KAWS was tapped by the watchmaker to work on a piece together. The result was the 2024 introduction of the limited edition AP x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion,” named after the artist’s famous character. Companion, which is said to be a dark interpretation of Mickey Mouse with a skull and crossbones-shaped head, x eyes, and gloved hands, is front and center on the dial. To make space for the titanium-crafted Companion, AP opted to remove the traditional center hands and instead go with a peripheral time display where the hour and minute hands rotate around the rim of the movement and dial. These hands move via two visible, superimposed gear wheels, which are in turn driven by pinions and guided by rollers. This is the first time Audemars Piguet has used this type of time display, but it certainly won’t be the last. The tourbillon sits at the traditional 6 o’clock position, where Companion’s chest would be.

AP x KAWS Companion watch
AP x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”

Like the mini figurine, the 43mm Concept case is also made of titanium, paired with a dark gray calfskin leather strap, culminating in a sleek monochromatic look. The AP x KAWS watch is limited to only 250 pieces and is powered by the new Caliber 2979 peripheral hour and minute hand-wound movement. This 2024 Audemars Piguet watch release will undoubtedly be a hot item in the collector’s market.

ModelAP x KAWS Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”
Reference26656TI.GG.D019VE.01
Case MaterialTitanium, black ceramic crown
Case Size43mm diameter
17.4mm thick
DialSunburst titanium dial plate with miniature titanium KAWS’ COMPANION
StrapGray calfskin leather strap
MovementManual-winding Caliber 2979
72-hour power reserve
FunctionsPeriphery hour and minute display
Retail Price (MSRP)$200,000
Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Watch Specs

Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Audemars Piguet expands its Royal Oak Concept line with the Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date, featuring the brand’s signature innovation in materials: forged carbon. Audemars Piguet first introduced forged carbon to the watchmaking world in 2007, and this latest model takes it a step further with Chroma Forged Technology (CFT), which incorporates colorful fibers into the case for a striking visual effect. The 44mm case, paired with a black ceramic bezel and pushers, highlights the brand’s avant-garde design approach. The open-worked dial showcases a large date at 12 o’clock, split-seconds chronograph, and GMT functions, creating a perfect balance of aesthetics and utility. What’s more, the blue pigments weaving through the material are luminous, resulting in a super cool effect in the dark.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Forged Carbon Technology (Image: Audemars Piguet)

Inside, the self-winding Caliber 4407 drives the timepiece, equipped with a column-wheel mechanism for the split-seconds chronograph and a 70-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, revealing the intricate craftsmanship Audemars Piguet is known for. Paired with a textured black rubber strap, this watch continues the brand’s legacy of pushing the limits of watchmaking through advanced materials and engineering, solidifying its place in the Royal Oak Concept collection.

ModelRoyal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Reference26650FO.OO.D353CA.01
Case MaterialCFT Carbon
Black ceramic bezel, crown, push-pieces, and caseback
Case Size43mm diameter
17.5mm thick
DialOpenworked dial, black counters with blue external zone
White gold hour-markers and hands with luminescent coating
StrapBlue and black rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp and interchangeable strap system
Additional black and blue rubber strap
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 4407
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsSplit second chronograph
GMT 24h
Function selection
Hours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)$206,800
Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Watch Specs

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2024 AP Code 11.59 Releases

Released in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection introduced 13 references and three new movements simultaneously. The then-new line included time-and-date, chronograph, minute repeater Supersonnerie, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar models. Five years on, Audemars Piguet continues to expand the Code 11.59 range with fresh iterations.

Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm

New to the 2024 AP collection are two pink gold Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm watches, one with a “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dark blue dial and the other with a dark green dial. Both versions are equipped with textured rubber straps that match their respective dials. These variants run on Caliber 4302, a self-winding movement with 70 hours of power reserve.

2024 AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm
Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm (Image: Audemars Piguet)
ModelCode 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm
References15210OR.OO.A348KB.01 (blue)
15210OR.OO.A056KB.01 (green)
Case Material18k pink gold
Case Size41mm diameter
10.7mm thick
Dial“Bleu nuit, Nuage 50” dial embossed or
Green dial
StrapBlue or green rubber-coated strap with 18k pink gold pin buckle.
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 4302
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds
Date
Retail Price (MSRP)$35,400
Code 11.59 Selfwinding 41mm Watch Specs

Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm

AP launched three fresh versions of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm, available in green, blue, and black. The green and blue versions sport full pink gold cases whereas the black version includes a black ceramic and pink gold case. The trio of Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41m watches are fitted with textured rubber straps color-matched to the embossed dials. The Caliber 4401 self-winding movement powers the chronographs with 70 hours of power reserve.

Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm (Image: Audemars Piguet)
ModelCode 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
References26393NR.OO.A002KB.02 (black)
26393OR.OO.A348KB.01 (blue)
26393OR.OO.A056KB.01 (green)
Case Material18k pink gold and black ceramic (black)
18k pink gold (green and blue)
Case Size41mm diameter
12.6mm thick
DialBlack, blue, or green embossed
StrapBlack, blue, or green rubber-coated strap with 18k pink gold pin buckle.
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 4401
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlyback chronograph
Hours, minutes, center seconds
Date
Retail Price (MSRP)$49,700
Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm Watch Specs

Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Shades of Gray

Audemars Piguet introduces a new iteration of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph called “Shades of Grey.” The watch features a gradient grey dial that transitions from dark at the edges to light at the center, with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and chronograph subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock for a clean, balanced layout.

Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Shades of Gray
Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Shades of Gray (Image: Audemars Piguet)

The 41mm case pairs an 18k white gold bezel with a black ceramic middle case, offering a mix of finishes, including satin-brushed, polished, and sandblasted textures. Inside, the in-house Caliber 2952 powers the watch, featuring a flying tourbillon, column-wheel chronograph, and a 65-hour power reserve.

ModelCode 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph
References26399NB.OO.D009KB.01
Case MaterialBlack ceramic case and crown
18k white gold bezel, lugs, and push-pieces
Case Size41mm diameter
13.8mm thick
DialOpen-worked, dark grey inner bezel, pink gold hands with luminescent coating.
StrapDark gray rubber-coated strap with 18k white gold AP folding clasp
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 2952
70-hour power reserve
FunctionsFlying tourbillon
Flyback chronograph
Hours, minutes, center seconds
Retail Price (MSRP)CHF 272,500
Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Watch Specs

Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm

The smaller Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm lineup also welcomed some fresh colorways, both in pink gold with embossed dials. One features a light blue dial and light blue alligator strap whereas the other is fitted with a dark blue “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial and a matching dark blue alligator strap. These smaller versions are powered by Caliber 5900 with 50 hours of power reserve.

Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm (Image: Audemars Piguet)
ModelCode 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm
References77410OR.OO.A342CR.01 (dark blue)
77410OR.OO.A344CR.01 (light blue)
Case Material18k pink gold case
Case Size38mm diameter
9.6mm thick
Dial“Bleu nuit, Nuage 50” or light blue embossed dial
StrapPearly dark blue or light blue alligator strap with 18k pink gold pin buckle
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5900
60-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds
Date
Retail Price (MSRP)$34,200
Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm Watch Specs

Code 11.59 Gem-Set Selfwinding 38mm

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Code 11.59 ref.

AP added a pair of gem-set Code 11.59 watches to its lineup in 2024, both featuring 38mm cases and offered in 18k white or pink gold. The watches boast dials set with 533 diamonds and colored sapphires, resulting in bold bejeweled versions of the AP Code 11.59.

Driving the trio of time-telling hands on the gem-paved dials is the Caliber 5909 automatic movement, visible through the display caseback and supplying 60 hours of power reserve.

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Code 11.59 ref. 77410BC.ZZ.D132CR.01
ModelCode 11.59
References77410BC.ZZ.D132CR.01 – White Gold
77410OR.ZZ.D343CR.01 – Pink Gold
Case38mm diameter
9.6mm thick
DialDial set with 533 gradient pink sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds
Dial set with 533 gradient blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds
Bracelet/StrapPearly gray alligator strap with white gold AP folding clasp set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds
Pearly dark blue alligator strap with white gold AP folding clasp set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 5909
60-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours, minutes, center seconds,
Retail Price (MSRP)$103,700
Gem-set Code 11.59 Specs

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Other 2024 Audemars Piguet Releases

In addition to new Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, and Code 11.59 watches, Audemars Piguet also announced some cutting-edge materials and a vintage revival watch.

Chroma Ceramic and Chroma Gold

AP Chroma Ceramic
Chroma Ceramic (Image: Audemars Piguet)

Among all the new watches Audemars Piguet has released in 2024, the watchmaker has also announced some innovative materials. For instance, in March, AP unveiled Chroma Ceramic with a multi-colored camouflage pattern, created via the latest Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology.

A few months later, Chroma Gold was added to AP’s slate of innovative materials, combining various shades of gold into one pattern.

AP Chroma Gold
Chroma Gold (Image: Audemars Piguet)

With the announcement of these cutting-edge materials, it’s only a matter of time before AP will add watches crafted from Chroma Ceramic and Chroma Gold to its collection.

[RE]Master02

In what the brand calls a “Tribute to Brutalism,” the unconventional [RE]Master02 watch launched in 2024 is inspired by the reference 5159BA from 1960, of which only seven examples were made. As the number two in the name suggests, this is the second reinterpretation of a vintage Audemars Piguet watch to join the brand’s modern catalog; the first was the 2020 [RE]Master01 based on a chronograph from 1943.

[RE]Master02
[RE]Master02 (Image: Audemars Piguet)

Limited to 250 pieces and sporting a 41mm asymmetrical 41mm rectangular case in Sand Gold, the [RE]Master02 features a dial in the blue color dubbed “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” — the same dark blue to black shade iconic to the first Royal Oak from the 1970s. The distinctive parted dial is segmented into 12 triangles, decorated with a linear satin finish and home to a pair of hands for the hours and minutes. The 2024 Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 runs on the 52-hour power reserve Caliber 7129 automatic movement, visible from the caseback.

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Caliber 7129 (Image: Audemars Piguet)
Model[RE]Master02
Reference15240SG.OO.A347CR.01
Case Material18k sand gold
Case SizeAsymmetrical
41mm across
9.7mm thick
DialBlue “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50″
Parted in 12 triangles
Linear satin finishing
BraceletBlue alligator leather
Sand gold pin buckle
MovementSelf-winding Caliber 7129
52-hour power reserve
FunctionsHours and minutes
Retail Price (MSRP)$47,200
Limited to 250 pieces
Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Specs

A Busy Year for Audemars Piguet

That covers all the new watches from Audemars Piguet in 2024 — over two dozen of them! However, make sure to stay tuned as we’ll update this article if other fresh AP models are announced.

More About Audemars Piguet Watches
Guide to Audemars Piguet Nicknames
How Much Does An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Cost?
Audemars Piguet’s North American Service Center Will Move to Raleigh, NC
Audemars Piguet Just Dropped the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Spider-Man
Six New Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Watches Now In Steel
New Royal Oak Offshore in Full Ceramic

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How to Buy a Rolex: A First-Time Buyer’s Guide https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/how-to-buy-a-rolex-watch/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/how-to-buy-a-rolex-watch/#respond Tue, 19 Nov 2024 15:00:00 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=23675 There are plenty of hot takes online about how hard it is to buy a Rolex, and all the “games” […]

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There are plenty of hot takes online about how hard it is to buy a Rolex, and all the “games” that Rolex authorized dealers supposedly play, and indeed the luxury watch market was pretty wild from 2021-2022. But nowadays, buying a Rolex really isn’t that hard–only a handful of models are truly “impossible” for non-VIP shoppers to buy at an authorized dealer. Most references are obtainable with a bit of a wait, and if you’d like to skip that wait–or get one of those hard-to-get models–there are plenty of trusted online grey market dealers to buy from as well. We’ll quickly explain how to buy a Rolex in 2024.

How to buy a Rolex depends on what model you want
Datejust 41 “Azzurro” ref. 126334 and a box o’ Rolexes

Know the Model You Want

The first step in shopping for a Rolex is narrowing down the model you want. The Rolex Datejust, Submariner and Oyster Perpetual are their biggest sellers. The Day-Date, GMT-Master II and Daytona are all iconic as well.

Then there are more niche models such as the Yacht-Master, Deepsea, Air-King and Sky-Dweller as well as discontinued models like the Milgauss, Cellini Prince, and Yacht-Master II.

Just go to Rolex.com, or browse some photos above, and see what strikes your fancy. If you’re wondering how to decide which Rolex is good to buy, well, don’t think about resale value too much. As long as you’re paying appropriate market prices to begin with, you’ll be OK.

It’s true that Rolex watches are great at retaining their value compared to other brands, but very few of them actually gain significant value over time–especially when you account for things like inflation, maintenance and insurance. So first, just go with your gut–decide what you think is coolest.

Determine Your Budget

The next step is determining your budget. When you’re choosing where and how to buy a Rolex, you’ll need to decide if you’re open to pre-owned watches or not. As a general rule, aside from modern steel sports models, pre-owned Rolex watches are cheaper than the new retail price. Let’s start with an overview of how to set your expectations when you buy a Rolex with various budgets:

Price RangeWhat Rolex Can You Get?
$1,000Something old and tiny. Any Rolex under $1,000 will be in rough shape, too.
$2,000Some old random ladies’ dress watch or perhaps a repainted men’s Bubbleback, but not much worthwhile.
$3,00050-year-old basic men’s 34mm model (which is pretty small by modern standards) like an Air-King ref. 5500 or an Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1500.
$4,0004-digit Datejusts (like ref. 1601) from the 1960’s-1970’s are doable at this price range, but keep in mind that they don’t have quickset date functionality.
$5,0005-digit Datejusts like ref. 16014, or possibly even 16234 (which has a sapphire crystal).
$6,500Something 36mm-39mm that’s pre-owned, but fairly new (i.e. 6-digit models with modern bracelets) like an Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300 or a Datejust 36 ref. 116200.
$7,500A brand new Datejust 36 from an authorized dealer (with a domed bezel), or an average-condition Explorer II (ref. 16570) or Submariner Date (ref. 16610) from the 1990’s. This is basically the bare minimum for a used Rolex sports model, or any Rolex at least 40mm in diameter for that matter.
$9,000Datejust 41 models with smooth bezels, slightly better examples of popular 5-digit steel sports models, or relatively un-hyped 6-digit sports models like the Air-King ref. 116900 or Explorer II 216570.
$10,000A new Submariner Date (ref. 126610) from an authorized dealer, or a previous-generation one (ref. 116610) from the secondhand market.
$12,500Some nice modern two-tone Datejust options, like the Datejust 41 ref. 126333, or the very underrated Cellini Prince (ref. 5440, 5441, 5442, and 5443).
$15,000A steel GMT-Master II like a Rolex Batman, a two-tone sports model like a Daytona ref. 116523 or Yacht-Master ref. 116621, or perhaps a nice neo-vintage Day-Date like ref. 18238.
$20,000The stainless steel Rolex world is pretty much your oyster unless you’re looking for a Daytona. A Hulk Submariner or even a modern Rolex Pepsi GMT might be doable at this range.
$25,000More solid gold options open up like Daytonas on leather straps (ref. 116518), 6-digit 36mm Day-Dates (ref. 118238, 118205 etc.) and pre-owned rose gold Yacht-Masters on Oysterflex bracelets (ref. 116655).
$30,000More pre-owned Day-Date 36 options, like previous-generation platinum models (ref. 118206), or perhaps a white gold Yacht-Master II (ref. 116689).
$35,000Brand new Day-Date 36, or a pre-owned Day-Date 40 or Day-Date II. Or previous-generation solid gold sports models like the Rolex “Smurf” Submariner (ref. 116619), Yacht-Master II (ref. 116688), or Daytona on Oysterflex (ref. 116518LN).
$40,000Brand new Day-Date 40 (without diamonds) or Daytona on Oysterflex (ref. 126518LN), or vintage heavy-hitters like the Double-Red Sea-Dweller (ref. 1665).
$50,000Basically any modern solid gold Rolex sports model you want (aside from rare iced-out versions), or perhaps a platinum Day-Date II (ref. 218206).
$75,000At this level you’re probably paying for rarity/collectibility, or lots of gems–like the very collectible green-dial John Mayer Daytona, or a classic vintage “Big Red” Daytona.
$100,000Platinum Daytona, more heavily gem-set models, or maybe even a grail-level vintage Submariner like a Comex or a Milsub.
Over $200,000Gem-covered off-catalog rarities like the Icy Coke GMT and yellow gold Le Mans Daytona, or a vintage Paul Newman Daytona.
Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 with Paul Newman dial
Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 with Paul Newman dial

Narrow Your Search to a Specific Reference Number

One important tip when buying a Rolex is to always know the specific reference number of the watch you’re shopping for. There are many generations of stainless steel Submariner Date models, for instance, so if you want the newest model you’re looking for a 126610. The 116610 that preceded it will be cheaper and the neo-vintage 16610 Submariner Date will be cheaper still. If you spend some time researching those models, you’ll learn that the 116610 was the first model with the beloved quick-adjust Glidelock clasp, etc.

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Know the Market Value

It’s always a good idea to have a general feel for market price, and you can get that by going on marketplaces like Chrono24 or listing aggregators like Watchrecon. Search using that reference number to get the most relevant results. Ebay can be worth a look, too.

Where and How to Buy a Rolex: Authorized Dealer or Secondhand?

If you want a Datejust or a Day-Date, or even one of the less popular sports models like a Sea-Dweller (particularly if it’s two-tone), just walk into an authorized dealer, ask for one, and wait a few months. You should have it before too long, unless you’re asking for a particular configuration with very high demand (like a mint green Datejust, or a Day-Date with a stone dial).

How to buy a Rolex Pepsi: EIther be a big-spending VIP at an authorized dealer, or call someone like Luxury Bazaar and pay 2x MSRP for it.
How to buy a Rolex Pepsi: EIther be a big-spending VIP at an authorized dealer, or call someone like Luxury Bazaar and pay 2x MSRP for it.

If you want a Pepsi GMT, steel Daytona, titanium Yacht-Master or turquoise Oyster Perpetual, however, you have almost no chance at getting one from an authorized dealer unless you’re a valued client there already. It’s worth noting that the Rolex waitlist tends to be longer in some places (UK, Australia) than others (USA).

When people are wondering how to buy a Rolex, they often ask if they should put their name down at multiple authorized dealers, and the answer is: sure, as long as they’re not owned by the same conglomerate and they’re fairly close to your home. Rolex AD’s generally prioritize local customers and will often encourage you to patronize your own local store if you visit one while traveling, but not always.

If the market value of the watch you want is a lot higher than the MSRP at a Rolex store, that means it’s very hard to actually get at a Rolex store. Oyster Perpetual models are surprisingly hard to get at retail, despite overtly being the entry-level Rolex model, but their secondhand premium isn’t too terrible–so that’s a good one to buy online from a trusted dealer. And if you want a steel Daytona or GMT without waiting forever, I’d recommend buying secondhand for that too.

How to Find a Trusted Dealer to Buy a Rolex From

Established luxury watch dealers will have numerous online references that you can see on places like Rolex Forums, Watchuseek, Reddit etc. Some forums even have trusted seller lists with the most-recommended sellers. Basically, if you see someone’s name recommended over and over and over again–like Takuya, Chase from Nashville Watch, DavidSW, Lunar Oyster, OC Watch Guy or hopefully Luxury Bazaar–you can feel confident buying a Rolex from them. These grey market dealers’ reputations are worth far more than they would make by scamming you out of a Rolex.

Some turned to vintage when frustrated with how difficult buying new Rolexes was from 2020-2022.

Chrono24 and Ebay: Are They Legit?

Chrono24 is indeed a legitimate watch marketplace, as is Ebay. There is a lot of aftermarket/custom garbage on Ebay (and even some fake stuff listed below the price threshold where authentication kicks in), but there’s plenty of legitimate and rare stuff too. In fact, Luxury Bazaar got started by selling on Ebay! And personally I found my rare “Abercrombie & Fitch”-stamped Oyster on Ebay.

How to buy a Rolex can vary depending on the age of the watch
Abercrombie & Fitch Oyster circa 1935, sterling silver case

Ebay has its place, as does Chrono24, but keep in mind that there are fantastic sellers and subpar ones alike on there–they’re just marketplaces. So, focus on the specific seller you’re buying a Rolex from. Avoid new sellers and stock photos!

If you work directly with a seller and pay by wire you can expect the best possible prices, but make sure you truly “buy the seller” before doing that. It’s not unusual for a well-established watch dealer to ask for a wire, but again, only do it if it’s a dealer you’re 100% confident about. If you truly found a watch through a Chrono24 or Ebay listing, and it’s your first transaction with that dealer, it’s generally best not to try to “circumvent” the listing fees. Unless it’s a really rare specific watch, though, it’s often easiest to start by simply emailing or calling a well-known dealer.

How to Know if the Rolex You Buy is Real

“Buy the seller” is a permanent mantra on watch forums for a reason. Often, first-time Rolex buyers will consider buying a watch from a random private party because they think they can “meet up at an authorized dealer to have it authenticated.” This is a surprisingly pervasive myth, but Rolex authorized dealers generally do not authenticate watches. They’re there to sell new Rolexes, not help people on Facebook Marketplace sell old ones. And honestly, ideally you should be buying from sellers whose opinions on authenticity you trust more than a random guy you would bring it to.

Buying a Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713 GRNR secondhand will cost you roughly MSRP
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713 GRNR

There are several tips on spotting a fake Rolex that you can learn, but if you’re still unsure about a watch you bought, you can have your watch fully serviced–any decent watchmaker will tell you if something is amiss. If you’re buying a Rolex that’s more than about seven years old, and you don’t know the service history, it’s a good idea to get it serviced anyway.

That’s really everything you need to know about how to buy a Rolex. Just walk into your local authorized dealer and ask for the one you like (seriously, asking about one watch is generally much more successful than a vague interest in several watches). If you want a steel Daytona or Pepsi, it’s true that you won’t get those without major spending history at an authorized retailer, but plenty of trusted dealers can overnight you one to your door for the current market price. And fortunately for consumers, the market price of a growing number of models is falling below MSRP.

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Guide to F.P. Journe Limited Edition Watches https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/fp-journe-limited-edition/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/fp-journe-limited-edition/#respond Fri, 15 Nov 2024 20:10:49 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=23219 François-Paul Journe is one of the most successful and influential living watchmakers, and as of 2024, his brand F.P. Journe […]

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François-Paul Journe is one of the most successful and influential living watchmakers, and as of 2024, his brand F.P. Journe holds the title of “most expensive watch sold at auction made by an independent brand” thanks to an early model selling for over $8 million. That F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Souscription watch was #2 of a limited edition of 20–and Mr. Journe will never sell #1. Although few watches are likely to come near that sale price, there are a variety of limited edition F.P. Journe watches that collectors go wild for. And, given that the brand officially announced that they won’t make any more Limited Series watches, we thought it would be a good time to go over all of the F.P. Journe limited edition and unique pieces from over the years.

Chronometre a Resonance Ruthenium, Chronometre Bleu Byblos, and Chronographe FB
Chronometre a Resonance Ruthenium, Chronometre Bleu Byblos, and Chronographe FB. Image: F.P. Journe

Even though Chanel now owns 20% of the company, F.P. Journe is widely regarded as the very model of high-end independent watchmaking. They deserve a lot of credit for the current high-end independent watchmaking boom in general. Brands like Gerald Genta, Daniel Roth and Franck Muller set the watchmaking stage in the 1990’s and F.P. Journe, founded in 1999, took it to the next level with their emphasis on beautifully finished in-house movements and thoughtful dials. The only other eponymous luxury watch brand of a living founder with equal success is Richard Mille.

FP Journe limited edition watches
Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis, Vagabondage I 6N Gold, and Chronometre Souverain Dubai Edition. Image: F.P. Journe

F.P. Journe limited edition watches are often some of the most desirable, but we should note that all Journes are scarce and desirable (and resell comfortably above MSRP). The brand only makes about 1,500 watches per year (1/3 of which have quartz movements), so fretting about what exactly is a “limited edition” F.P. Journe is a bit pedantic. But let’s do it anyway!

What is a Limited Edition?

To a watch collector, a proper “limited edition” has a specific finite known total produced. So, even if a watch’s production is extremely limited, generally watch nerds won’t use the term “limited” unless there’s a manufacturer-stated quantity limit. As in “one of five,” or “one of 20” etc. And it should be noted that although F.P. Journe used the term “Limited Series” for some of its watches, that doesn’t include everything that we think of as “limited editions” in the broader sense. So even though F.P. Journe has declared that there will be no more Limited Series, we expect them to continue making unique pieces for charity events, etc.

The Tokyo Anniversaire series includes 6 limited FP Journe watches in all
Four of the six watches made as part of the Tokyo Anniversaire Limited Series. Image: F.P. Journe

F.P. Journe limited edition watches are obviously very special, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re more special than other models that aren’t “limited” in the traditional sense. There are brown “Havana” dials and mother-of-pearl dials only available at boutiques, for instance. Black Label models, featuring rich black dials, are especially exclusive because they’re only offered to repeat boutique customers–but they’re not “limited” per se. Jade dials are even rarer. Same goes for the incredible Astronomic model–it’s so complex that F.P. Journe can only produce a few each year. And most collectors agree that an Astronomic–let alone a Black Label Astronomic–is more special than most actual “limited edition” Journes. Before we list over 80 of those limited/unique Journe models, let’s go over a general breakdown of how the numbers stack up.

Breakdown of F.P. Journe Unique and Limited Edition Watches

Roughly half of all F.P. Journe limited/unique editions are 40mm wide, and more than half are platinum. The first series of watches F.P. Journe ever sold when the brand came on the scene in 1999, the Tourbillon Souverain Souscription, was limited to 20 pieces. But the first actual so-called “Limited Series” was the Ruthenium Series, which debuted in 2001. Here are some of the main categories that limited edition Journe watches fall into:

  • Vagabondage Series – 10 models (2 of which are Red Ferrari versions made in collaboration with Jean Todt)
  • Tokyo Boutique Anniversary Series – 6 models
  • Commemorative 38mm platinum “No. 1000” unique pieces (sold as a set by Cellini) – 6 models
  • Ruthenium Series (F.P. Journe’s first true series of limited edition watches) – 5 models
  • Commemorative 38mm steel unique pieces (sold as a set to signify the end of the 38mm era) – 5 models
  • Unique pieces for Only Watch charity – 5 models
  • Unique pieces for Action Innocence charity (purple dials) – 4 models
  • Unique pieces paying homage to New York City after 9/11 (according to A Collected Man) – 3 models
  • Unique pieces for Fondation Prince Albert II of Monaco charity (with Oracle bone script hour markers) – 3 models

That barely covers half of the limited and unique F.P. Journe watches that we’re aware of, though. See our chart below for a thorough model-by-model list.

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Chronometre Bleu Byblos, a very hard-to-find FP Journe limited edition
This collector was offered over 7x what he paid for this Chronometre Bleu Byblos, and he declined, “because I can’t get another one.”

Chart of F.P. Journe Unique and Limited Edition Watches

Model NameDial ColorDebut YearLimited ToNoteCase WidthCase Material
Tourbillon Souverain SouscriptionYellow Gold199920 piecesFirst series of F.P. Journe’s tourbillon wristwatches38mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain LabyrintheRose Gold Labyrinthe pattern200010 piecesRare early model with engraved “Labyrinth” dial pattern40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain RutheniumRuthenium200199 piecesFirst model with a ruthenium dial40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain New York SkylineRose Gold2002Piece Unique (presumed)One of three distinct New York-themed watches created in the wake of 9/11, believed to be a unique piece, engraved Statue of Liberty on dial38mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain N°1000Yellow Gold2004Piece Unique (presumed)Released as part of the six-watch “N°1000” set supposedly for Cellini in 200438mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain Anniversaire TokyoRuthenium with gold accents200720 piecesMarks the 3rd anniversary of Journe’s first boutique (Tokyo)40mmTitanium
Tourbillon Souverain Orologeria Pisa EditionSilver/Ruthenium20085 piecesMade for Orologeria Pisa, a well-known jeweler in Milan40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain Beijing EditionRed20105 piecesCelebrates the opening of F.P. Journe’s Beijing boutique40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain 10 Year Boutique AnniversaryBlack/Grained Silver201310 piecesFor the 10th anniversary of the brand’s first boutique (Tokyo), and the opening of the 10th boutique total (Beirut)40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain 30 Year Career AnniversaryGrained Silver (almost white)201399 piecesCelebrates 30 years of F.P. Journe’s career, featuring guilloched silver lugs and caseback with a rose gold midcase/bezel40mmSilver/Rose Gold
Tourbillon Souverain 38mm SteelTan201538 piecesOne of five watches that came as part of the “38mm Steel Set” which were to be the final 38mm FPJ watches38mmStainless Steel
Tourbillon Souverain Régence CirculaireSilver Régence Circulaire pattern201620 piecesEngraved “Regency Circulaire” dial pattern is an ode to the earlier “Labyrinth”40mmRose Gold
Tourbillon Souverain Cœur de RubisRuby201920 piecesTwo 0.45mm-thick pieces of actual ruby are laid on a silver surface to form the dial40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain “Action Innocence”Purple2015Piece UniqueBenefiting Action Innocence, a charity aiming to protect children from online harms40mmPlatinum
Tourbillon Souverain Bleu Only WatchBlue Chrome2015Piece UniqueAuctioned at Only Watch 2015, with a dial several layers of hand-applied blue lacquer40mmTantalum
Astronomic Only Watch 2019Blue Chrome/Guilloché Silver2019Piece UniqueVery complex (18 functions), sold for $1.8 million at Only Watch 201944mmTantalum
Automatique 20th AnniversaryYellow Gold/Guilloché Silver202199 piecesCelebrates 20th anniversary of the Octa caliber40mmPlatinum
Automatique Action Innocence 2023Purple2023Piece UniqueFor Action Innocence charity auction40mmPlatinum
Centigraphe “Ferrari Red”Red with Ferrari logo20083 piecesMade in collaboration with Jean Todt/Ferrari40mmPlatinum
Centigraphe Souverain AnniversaireRuthenium with gold accents201680 piecesMarks the 10th anniversary of various FPJ boutiques beginning in 2016 (20 were made for the HK boutique and 10 each for seven others)40mmTitanium
Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante Bleu Only Watch 2017Blue2017Piece UniqueRaised over $1.1 million at Only Watch 201744mmTantalum
Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante “Prince Albert II”Royal Blue2018Piece UniqueMade for the Fondation Prince Albert II de Monaco, hour numerals in Oracle Bone script44mmCoated Titanium
Chronographe FBGuilloché Ruthenium with gold accents2024200 piecesCelebrates the Tokyo boutique’s 20 anniversary, fifth watch of the Tokyo Boutique Anniversarie Series and Journe’s final “limited edition” timepiece40mmTitanium
Chronomètre à Resonance N°1000Tan2004Piece Unique (presumed)Released as part of the six-watch “N°1000” set supposedly for Cellini in 200438mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance Anniversaire TokyoRuthenium with gold accents200612 piecesMarks the 2nd anniversary of Journe’s first boutique (Tokyo)40mmTitanium
Chronomètre à Résonance RutheniumRuthenium200199 piecesFirst limited edition of the Résonance model38mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance Regency (WG)White Gold engraved “Regency” pattern~2001Piece Unique (presumed)The first of a set of three Regency Résonance models from the early 2000’s, with a distinctive hand-engraved pattern38mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance Regency (YG)Yellow Gold engraved “Regency” pattern~2001Piece Unique (presumed)Slightly better engraving quality than the white gold version38mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance Regency (RG)Rose Gold engraved “Regency” pattern~2001Piece Unique (presumed)Even better engraving quality than the yellow gold version38mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance New York SkylineWhite Gold2002Piece Unique (presumed)One of three distinct New York-themed watches created in the wake of 9/11, believed to be a unique piece, engraved Chrysler Building and Brooklyn Bridge on dial38mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance Orologeria PisaSilver/Ruthenium20085 piecesMade for Orologeria Pisa, a well-known jeweler in Milan40mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance 38mm SteelTan201538 piecesOne of five watches that came as part of the “38mm Steel Set” which were to be the final 38mm FPJ watches38mmStainless Steel
Chronomètre à Résonance 20th AnniversaryTwo-tone201920 piecesMarks 20 years of the Résonance40mmPlatinum
Chronomètre à Résonance “Prince Albert II”Fuchsia/Ruthenium2024Piece UniqueMade for the Fondation Prince Albert II de Monaco, hour numerals in Oracle Bone script40mmPlatinum
Chronomètre Souverain Anniversaire TokyoRuthenium with gold accents200520 piecesMarks the 1st anniversary of Journe’s first boutique (Tokyo)40mmTitanium
Chronomètre Souverain de BoulleRuthenium/Guilloché White20072008Made for de Boulle, a jeweler in Dallas, TX40mmPlatinum
Chronomètre Bleu ByblosBlue with cut-out dial201420 pieces in Eastern Arabic, 79 in Western ArabicCelebrating the opening of the Beirut boutique39mmTantalum
Chronomètre Furtif Bleu Only Watch 2024Translucent Blue Grand Feu Enamel2024Piece UniqueFor Only Watch 2024 with new Calibre 152240mmTantalum
Chronomètre Holland & HollandBrown (Damascus Steel)201766 piecesDial made from Damascus steel barrels39mmStainless Steel
Chronomètre Souverain 38mm SteelWhite/Guilloché Tan201538 piecesOne of five watches that came as part of the “38mm Steel Set” which were to be the final 38mm FPJ watches38mmStainless Steel
Chronomètre Souverain “Dubai Edition”Green202099 piecesReleased for Dubai Watch Week 202040mmPlatinum
Chronomètre Souverain Swiss FineTimingBlack/Silver with red accents20077 piecesPart of a two-piece set for Swiss FineTiming retailer along with an Octa Chronographe40mmPlatinum
Chronomètre Optimum Action Innocence 2017Purple2017Piece UniqueFor Action Innocence charity auction40mmPlatinum
Chronomètre Optimum “Prince Albert II”Fuchsia/Ruthenium2022Piece UniqueMade for the Fondation Prince Albert II de Monaco, hour numerals in Oracle Bone script40mmPlatinum
Élégante 40mm “Action Innocence”Purple2015Piece UniqueFor Action Innocence charity auction35mmTitanium
Élégante 48mm Titalyt BCRF 2024White/grey/black2024Piece UniqueBenefiting breast cancer research, featuring pink numeral at 1 o’clock and pink strap40mmCoated Titanium
Élégante 48mm Titalyt MAMCOLuminescent Grey2024Piece UniqueProceeds benefit the restoration of MAMCO Geneva (Musée d’art moderne et contemporain)40mmCoated Titanium
Élégante 48mm Titalyt “Le Restaurant”Burgundy2024Restaurant employees/patrons onlyDial and strap are the color of red wine, appropriate for Journe’s restaurant40mmCoated Titanium
FFC Blue Only Watch 2021Skeletonized Rose Gold with blue automaton hand2021Piece UniqueCollaboration with Francis Ford Coppola for Only Watch 2021, with the fingers of an automaton hand indicating hours42mmTantalum
FFCSkeletonized Black with silver automaton hand202312 piecesA black/silver/rose gold colorway of the FFC42mmPlatinum
Octa Automatique 38mm SteelTan201538 piecesOne of five watches that came as part of the “38mm Steel Set” which were to be the final 38mm FPJ watches38mmStainless Steel
Octa Automatique Lune France-China 50Greyish Blue2015~28 piecesCommemorates 50 years of France-China relations40mmPlatinum
Octa Calendrier RutheniumRuthenium200399 piecesPart of the ruthenium dial series40mmPlatinum
Octa Calendrier N°1000Tan2004Piece Unique (presumed)Released as part of the six-watch “N°1000” set supposedly for Cellini in 200438mmPlatinum
Octa Calendrier Sincere Fine Watches EditionBlack mother-of-pearl200615 piecesSpecial edition for Sincere Fine Watches38mmPlatinum
Octa Calendrier 38mm SteelTan201538 piecesOne of five watches that came as part of the “38mm Steel Set” which were to be the final 38mm FPJ watches38mmStainless Steel
Octa Chronographe RutheniumRuthenium and Guilloché Silver200299 piecesPart of the ruthenium dial series40mmPlatinum
Octa Chronographe N°1000Tan2004Piece Unique (presumed)Released as part of the six-watch “N°1000” set supposedly for Cellini in 200438mmPlatinum
Octa Chronographe Swiss FineTimingBlack/Silver with red accents20077 piecesPart of a two-piece set for Swiss FineTiming retailer along with a Chronomètre Souverain40mmPlatinum
Octa Jour/Nuit RutheniumRuthenium200299 piecesPart of the ruthenium dial series, featuring a day/night indicator40mmPlatinum
Octa Lune N°1000Tan2004Piece Unique (presumed)Released as part of the six-watch “N°1000” set supposedly for Cellini in 200438mmPlatinum
Octa Lune Mannekin PisSilver with urinating statue motif202410 pieces“Mannekin Pis” means what it sounds like40mmPlatinum
Octa Perpétuelle Anniversaire TokyoRuthenium with gold accents200999 piecesMarks the 5th anniversary of Journe’s first boutique (Tokyo)40mmTitanium
Octa Réserve de Marche New York SkylineYellow Gold2002Piece Unique (presumed)One of three distinct New York-themed watches created in the wake of 9/11, believed to be a unique piece, engraved NYC skyline on dial38mmPlatinum
Octa Réserve de Marche N°1000Tan2004Piece Unique (presumed)Released as part of the six-watch “N°1000” set supposedly for Cellini in 200438mmPlatinum
Octa Réserve de Marche Régence CirculaireRose Gold engraved “Regency” pattern20154 piecesSupposedly released to use up a set of four NOS Regency dials, more “round” engraving pattern than other Regency models40mmPlatinum
Octa Sport Indy 500Black201299 piecesCommemorates the Indianapolis 500 race42mmBlackened Aluminum
Octa Sport ARS2 (Blue)Blue20188 piecesCeramic bezel, only weighs about 70 grams total44mmTitanium
Octa UTC (Platinum)Greyish Blue/Guilloché Silver202310 piecesExclusive to F.P.Journe Boutiques, limited to 10 pieces per metal40mmPlatinum
Octa UTC (Rose Gold)Greyish Blue/Guilloché Silver202310 piecesExclusive to F.P.Journe Boutiques, limited to 10 pieces per metal40mmRose Gold
Octa ZodiaqueSlate/White2004150 piecesAnnular ring shows current Zodiac sign and approximate date40mmPlatinum
Octa Zodiaque “Children Action”Tan/White2005Piece UniqueUnique piece, raised $813,000 for Children Action charity40mmRose Gold
Sonnerie Souverain (Brass Movement)Yellow Gold2004Piece UniqueThe only Grande et Petite Sonnerie that Journe ever made with a brass movement40mmPlatinum
Sonnerie Souverain Constructors’ ChampionshipSky Blue2009Piece UniqueBeautiful shimmery light blue dial, made for Jean Todt to celebrate Formula 1’s 7th Constructors’ Championship40mmStainless Steel
Vagabondage IWhite/Black200469 piecesFirst in the Vagabondage series, with a unique minute hand encircling the current hour digit on an inner rotating/jumping disc37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage I (Diamond-set)Silver/Black200410 piecesCase is set with baguette diamonds37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage I “Michael Schumacher”Red2004Piece UniqueMade just for Michael Schumacher, with a Ferrari logo and 7 “V” hour markers for his 7 championships37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage II (Rose Gold)Smoked Sapphire/Silver201068 piecesDigital hours and minutes (traditional seconds subdial)37.5mmRose Gold
Vagabondage II (Platinum)Smoked Sapphire/Silver201069 piecesDigital hours and minutes (traditional seconds subdial)37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage II (Diamond-set)Smoked Sapphire/Silver201010 piecesCase is set with baguette diamonds37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage III (Rose Gold)Smoked Sapphire/Silver201768 piecesDigital hours and seconds display (traditional minutes)37.5mmRose Gold
Vagabondage III (Platinum)Smoked Sapphire/Silver201769 piecesDigital hours and seconds display (traditional minutes)37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage III (Diamond-set)Smoked Sapphire/Rose Gold/Silver201710 piecesCase is set with baguette diamonds37.5mmPlatinum
Vagabondage I 6N GoldSmoked Sapphire202268 piecesRose gold variant of the first Vagabondage, representing the final chapter of the Vagabondage saga37.5mmRose Gold
4 FP Journe limited edition watches
The black FFC model (right) is limited to just 10 pieces. Image: F.P. Journe

That just about covers all of the unique and limited edition F.P. Journe models we can think of. While it was fun to go through all of these various rare models, deciding on which Journe watch you want probably shouldn’t come down to whether it’s a “limited edition” or not. After all, they’re all rare, and they’re all pretty fantastic.

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The post Guide to F.P. Journe Limited Edition Watches appeared first on GREY MARKET MAGAZINE.

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The Winning Watches of GPHG 2024 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/the-winning-watches-of-gphg-2024/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/the-winning-watches-of-gphg-2024/#respond Wed, 13 Nov 2024 23:02:06 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=23389 The watch world’s biggest award show just wrapped up and we have a new slate of this year’s winning watches […]

The post The Winning Watches of GPHG 2024 appeared first on GREY MARKET MAGAZINE.

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The watch world’s biggest award show just wrapped up and we have a new slate of this year’s winning watches to admire. For those who aren’t familiar with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), it’s essentially the Oscars of the watch industry where nominated timepieces are selected as “Best Chronograph,” “Best Men’s Watch,” “Most Iconic,” and so on. The biggest prize of the night, however, is the “Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix,” which rewards the best overall timepiece among all categories. While most of the categories are self-explanatory, it’s worth pointing out that the “Challenge Prize” is awarded to exceptional watches with a retail price equal to or under CHF 3,000 whereas the “Petite Aiguille” award goes to watches with a retail price between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000. With that in mind, let’s get to the winning watches of GPHG 2024.

Listen to the podcast episode about this article

Various winning watches of 2024 GPHG
Various winning watches of 2024 GPHG

Challenge – Otsuka Lotec No.6

GPHG 2024 Challenge Prize - Otsuka Lotec No.6
Otsuka Lotec No. 6 – Winner of the Challenge Prize (Image: GPHG)

Otsuka Lotec, a Japanese watch brand founded by independent watchmaker Jiro Katayama, takes a unique approach with its latest release, the No. 6. The No.6 draws inspiration from an analog meter with a Japanese fan-shaped display. Its retrograde hour and minute hands overlap, rotating on a single axis for a clean, streamlined look. The watch is powered by a Japanese Miyota movement, with an additional in-house module supporting its unique features: retrograde hour and minute hands, a central seconds disk, and a date display on the right.

Designed by Katayama himself, the No. 6 achieves a slim profile by housing the hour and minute hands within the lower part of the fan-shaped dial. The dial is carefully screwed onto the movement, ensuring perfect alignment with the bezel. For a refined finish, the edges of the hands and screw heads are beveled. Precision is key in this model — the retrograde hour and minute hands are set to return to zero in sync at 12:00, with a return timing difference controlled to within 60 seconds. Adjustments to the hour hand’s cam allow for precision down to 0.1 degrees, demonstrating Katayama’s meticulous approach to design and function.

Price: CHF 2,260

Petite Aiguille – Kudoke 3 Salmon

GPHG 2024 Petite Aiguille Prize - Kudoke 3 Salmon
Kudoke 3 Salmon – Winner of the Petite Aiguille Prize (Image: GPHG)

Independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke’s brand, KUDOKE, is known for handcrafted timepieces that combine traditional techniques with innovative design. The HANDwerk collection’s signature style is instantly recognizable in the KUDOKE 3, but this model takes a unique approach to time display. Minutes are indicated traditionally with a blued steel hand on the top dial ring, while the hours are shown by a triple-armed hand with each arm of a different length. As each arm completes its hour scale, the next continues the sequence, making hours 2, 6, and 10 appear twice — a simple yet clever feature.

The salmon upper dial and silver-plated lower dial, secured with screws that double as minute markers, feature diamond-edged accents for subtle play with light. The HANDwerk infinity symbol appears in multiple spots, from the minute hand to the engraved balance cock. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with an onion crown, the KUDOKE 3 is powered by the hand-wound KALIBER 1 movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

Price: CHF 9,905

Sports – Ming 37.09 Bluefin

2024 GPHG Ming 37.09 Bluefin
Ming 37.09 Bluefin – Winner of the Sports Prize (Image: GPHG)

Ming, known for its minimalist and innovative watch designs, unveiled its latest dive watch, the 37.09 Bluefin. This model balances technical dive standards with the brand’s customary good looks, offering functionality without bulk. Initially aimed at surpassing the technical achievements of the 18.01 H41, Ming took a new approach to create a slim and versatile dive watch. The re-engineered 38mm steel case features dual crowns, reinforced sapphire crystals, and extra gaskets, achieving a 600m water resistance rating. At 12.8mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal, the Bluefin wears comfortably while maintaining a strong visual presence with its nearly bezel-free design and polished and brushed finishes.

The dial, developed over two years, features laser-engraved sapphire with proprietary chromium-based metallization and layered Super-LumiNova X1 for depth and subtle color shifts. Instead of a standard rotating bezel, the Bluefin’s timing bezel is internal, with a unidirectional mechanism at 4 o’clock designed for underwater use. Completing the design is an FKM rubber strap, shaped to follow the wrist’s curve. The Bluefin is Ming’s most comfortable dive watch to date, balancing practical dive features while maintaining the watchmaking signature style.

Price: CHF 4,950

Chronograph – Massena Lab x Sylvain Pinaud Chronograph Monopoussoir

GPHG 2024 Massena Lab x Sylvain Pinaud Chronograph Monopoussoir
Massena Lab x Sylvain Pinaud Chronograph Monopoussoir – Winner of the Chronograph Prize (Image: GPHG)

Independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud, known for his meticulous craftsmanship and award-winning designs, teamed up with Massena LAB, a platform focused on unique collaborations in high watchmaking, to create the Chronograph Monopoussoir. This monopusher chronograph was crafted almost entirely by hand in Pinaud’s workshop in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. Powered by a hand-wound, fully integrated chronograph movement with a column wheel and horizontal clutch, it operates through a single pusher subtly integrated into the crown for start, stop, and reset functions. With its chronograph mechanism exposed on the dial side, every detail was hand-finished by Pinaud.

Sapphire crystal windows along the sides of the 42mm titanium case, as well as a sapphire caseback, provide near-complete visibility of the dial and movement. The movement was built on Pinaud’s original chronograph that earned him the prestigious Meilleurs Ouvriers de France award. The watch is fitted with a Jean Rousseau Paris strap in aged calfskin with a crocodile lining. Limited to only 10 pieces, this collaboration highlighted the best of Pinaud’s talent and Massena LAB’s focus on exceptional, small-batch creations.

Price: CHF 130,000

Iconic – Piaget Polo 79

2024 GPHG Iconic Prize Piaget Polo 79
Piaget Polo 79 – Winner of the Iconic Prize (Image: GPHG 2024)

In 1979, Piaget introduced a watch that would come to define the brash, bold, and opulent vibe of the 1980s. Now, for the Maison’s 150th anniversary, that iconic design was brought back as the Piaget Polo 79. The watch’s unique and instantly recognizable construction, with alternating polished gadroons and brushed block links, flows uninterrupted from bracelet to case and onto the dial, creating a cohesive design that sits naturally on the wrist. The bracelet’s craftsmanship was so precise it looks as though it was sculpted from a single piece of gold.

Today’s Piaget Polo 79 watch stays true to the essence of the original, with updates that modern buyers will appreciate. The case has been resized to 38mm, and the quartz movement was replaced with Piaget’s ultra-thin 1200P1 self-winding caliber, visible through the sapphire caseback. This is a watch revival that further underlines the current trend towards yellow gold watches.

Price: CHF 68,500

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More About Piaget Watches:
New for 2024: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic
Five of The Best Piaget Watches
Quick Guide to the Thinnest Watches in the World: Bulgari, Piaget, and Everyone Else

Ladies Watch – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit

2024 GPHG Ladies Watch - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit – Winner of Ladies’ Prize (Image: GPHG)

Inspired by the wonder of the night sky, Van Cleef & Arpels has reimagined the famed Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch, originally introduced in 2008, into a new 33mm white gold model that took three years to develop. A diamond-paved moon and stars gracefully follow a guilloché yellow gold sun in an endless dance across the dial, which features a 24-hour rotating disk that moves almost unnoticeable. Murano aventurine glass creates a depth effect on the dial, capturing the magic of a starlit night. The aventurine dial includes intricate openwork to house the diamond-set white gold stars, while painted blue mother-of-pearl with a guilloché finish takes up the bottom portion of the dial.

A sapphire crystal back reveals the oscillating weight of the self-winding movement, decorated with a polished, starry sky. The caseback also features a delicate enamel decal, showing a fairy that watches over the celestial dance from behind — a whimsical nod to Van Cleef & Arpels’ poetic vision.

Price: CHF 86,500

Jewelry – Chopard Laguna High-Jewelry Secret Watch

2024 GPHG Jewelry - Chopard Laguna High-Jewelry Secret Watch
Chopard Laguna High-Jewelry Secret Watch – Winner of the Jewelry Prize (Image: GPHG)

Chopard’s latest addition to its Red Carpet Collection is a one-of-a-kind jewelry watch that merges high jewelry with fine watchmaking. Designed under the vision of Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele, this secret watch is hidden within a delicately crafted seashell, showcasing Chopard’s commitment to artistry and nature-inspired themes.

Meticulously designed and executed, this limited edition one-of-one cuff watch is decorated with a maritime mosaic with a shimmering pearl and a palette of precious stones in hues of blue, pink, and violet surrounding the dial. Creating this intricate piece required over 1,000 hours of work to bring ethical white gold, ethical rose gold, and titanium together with all the gems including pink, violet, and pastel blue sapphires, topaz, a natural pearl, emeralds, diamonds, purple, Demantoid, and Mandarin garnets. Flipping open the seashell cover reveals a small dial punctuated with a pair of blue hands for the hour and minutes.

Price: CHF 780’000

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Ladies’ Complication – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

2024 GPHG Ladies' Complication - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été
an Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été – Winner of the Ladies’ Complication Prize (Image: GPHG)

Inspired by nature, a constant muse for Van Cleef & Arpels, the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été (French for “summer breeze”)watch captures the charm of a fresh summer morning. The dial blooms with white and yellow gold butterflies, crafted in plique-à-jour enamel, set to flutter across the scene with an on-demand animation that also animates the delicate flowers and stems. The flowers, created in vallonné enamel, display shades of blue complemented by spessartite garnet pistils, set against a matte mother-of-pearl background. The champlevé enamel leaves and grass blades set with tsavorite garnets surround sculpted, hand-painted stems that add depth and texture.

This 38mm white-gold timepiece, part of the brand’s Poetic Complications collection, features a self-winding mechanical movement with 36 hours of power reserve. With its “flower breezing” animation on demand, the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été expresses a fleeting moment of nature’s cycle. The result is a layered, poetic scene where the butterflies and flowers come alive — a fabulous example of Van Cleef & Arpels’ mastery of mechanical automatons and decorative techniques.

Price: CHF 169,000

Artistic Crafts – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté – Winner of the Artistic Crafts Prize (Image: GPHG)

The Extraordinary Dials collection by Van Cleef & Arpels brings together jewelry artistry with fine watchmaking to create miniature worlds that bring the brand’s whimsical universe to life. Newly added to the collection is the limited-edition Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté — a 41mm white-gold watch that captures a moment of “Enchanted Nature” in three-dimensional detail. Inside the case, a graceful figure picks flowers under the morning sun, with light filtering through plique-à-jour enamel leaves and diamond-set branches. Blossoms set with yellow sapphires appear to float in a lush, endless flowerbed, achieved through a new technique called façonné enamel, creating an illusion of depth across the dial.

The watch’s white gold figure spreads wings made of translucent pearly-white plique-à-jour enamel, giving the piece an ethereal glow. Against a background of three turquoise shades, the sun sparkles with spessartites, colored sapphires, and diamonds, each stone seemingly suspended in mid-air thanks to a lifted setting technique that mimics dewdrops. The pair of hour and minute hands are placed on the right side of the dial, legible but immersed in the artistic landscape. The story continues on the caseback, where an engraved motif depicts the fairy taking flight. After two years of development and 180 hours of meticulous work, this seven-piece limited edition watch is yet another winner for Van Cleef & Arpels at GPHG 2024.

Price: CHF 358,000

Time Only – H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel – Winner of the Time-Only Prize (Image: GPHG)

With the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, indie watchmaking H. Moser & Cie. brings together exclusivity, performance, and craftsmanship in a watch designed for those who appreciate refined, independent watchmaking. Housed in a 39mm cushion-shaped steel case inspired by the streamlined aesthetics of early high-speed trains, this model reinterprets the brand’s signature with reworked proportions to fit the new, slimmer caliber HMC 500. Integrated into the case, the steel bracelet features arced, articulated links for seamless flow and comfort on the wrist. Its Aqua Blue Grand Feu enamel dial is achieved through a meticulous process that layers and fires three pigments to create the brand’s signature fumé effect.

Under the hood, the Caliber HMC 500, H. Moser & Cie.’s smallest 21st-century movement, showcases the company’s technical skill. A solid platinum micro-rotor mounted on a ball bearing supports its 74-hour power reserve, while a bi-directional pawl winding system keeps it efficient and slim. This movement also allows H. Moser & Cie. to incorporate new complications into smaller cases, opening doors to future designs.

Price: CHF 29,900

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Men’s – Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

Voutilainen KV20i Reversed
Voutilainen KV20i Reversed – Winner of the Men’s Prize (Image: GPHG 2024)

As its name suggests, the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed watch flaunts an unconventional “back-to-front” design that brings the movement to the front of the watch. This 39mm platinum timepiece lets you admire the movement’s intricacies, including the single-arm balance-wheel bridge and the synchronized escapement wheels (along with the hour and minute hands) from the dial side whereas the back of the watch is home to the small seconds subdial.

The reverse side of the watch (Image: GPHG)

Technically, the KV20i features a large, in-house crafted balance wheel and a unique balance spring with a Phillips overcoil and Grossmann inner curve for enhanced accuracy. The twin escapement wheels provide a direct impulse to the balance, lowering energy needs compared to a standard Swiss lever escapement, thus improving stability and longevity while also achieving a 60-hour power reserve. Every component, from the German-silver bridges and mainplate to hand-finished steel parts, meets Voutilainen’s exceedingly high standards of craftsmanship, which was rewarded with a well-deserved win at GPHG 2024.

Price: CHF 134,900

Men’s Complication – De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication

De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication
De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication – Winner of the Men’s Complication Prize (Image: GPHG 2024)

The DB Kind of Grande Complication demonstrates De Bethune’s unique take on high watchmaking. Housed in a 43.3mm titanium case, this double-sided timepiece features eight complications: perpetual calendar, spherical moon-phase indication, retrograde age of the Moon and leap years, ultra-light tourbillon in blued titanium, jumping seconds, power reserve, and the double display of hours and minutes.

De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication
The watch includes a reversible case with two dials (Image: GPHG 2024)

Inspired by the great classical watchmaking tradition, founder Denis Flageollet and his team designed the watch with a reversible case. One side displays the Caliber DB2529 with jumping seconds, a power reserve, retrograde age of the moon indicator, and a 36,000 vph tourbillon — one of the fastest and lightest available today. The other side reveals a more traditional dial with a perpetual calendar (day, date, month, year, and leap year) and a three-dimensional moonphase display, set against the brand’s signature starry sky dial. The manual-winding movement comprises 751 components and supplies 96 hours of power reserve.

Price: CHF 400,000

More About De Bethune Watches:
De Bethune’s DB28xs Aérolite Has an Iridescent Guilloche Meteorite Dial

Calendar and Astronomy – Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver

Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver – Winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Prize (Image: GPHG)

Laurent Ferrier returns to its roots with the Classic Moon Silver, a 40mm red gold watch that introduces the brand’s first moonphase complication within its renowned Classic collection. Housed in Laurent Ferrier’s signature pebble-smooth case, this timepiece combines an annual calendar and moonphase in an elegant, hand-finished silver dial, accented by slender Roman numerals and a blue chemin de fer minute track. Twin beveled windows for the day and month sit below 12 o’clock, while a small seconds and moonphase display, crafted from aventurine glass and translucent enamel, brings an alluring depth to the base of the dial.

At the heart of this model is the updated Caliber LF126.02 manual winding movement, offering an 80-hour power reserve and packed with over 30 new or modified components to support the annual calendar and moonphase functions. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement’s Côtes de Genève decoration and hand-polished finishing embody Laurent Ferrier’s dedication to traditional craftsmanship. Adjustments for the calendar and moonphase can be made via flush-fitted correctors on the case sides, while the rest are handled through the ball-shaped crown, providing an intuitive user experience without compromising the watch’s understated aesthetic.

Price: CHF 86,480

Tourbillon – Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription – Winner of the Tourbillon Prize (Image: GPHG 2024)

Thirty-five years after it first launched, Daniel Roth returns with a reimagined classic: the Tourbillon Souscription. Honoring the original 1988 design, it was crafted by skilled artisans at La Fabrique du Temps and fashioned in classic yellow gold. The double-ellipse 35.5 x 38.6mm case measures just 9.2mm in thickness, maintaining the proportions of the original while reshaping the lugs for an improved ergonomic fit.

The solid yellow gold dial — produced in the atelier of renowned independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen— is decorated with Clous de Paris guilloché, echoing the original’s intricate style but incorporating updated typography. What remains is the hour/minute subdial at 12 o’clock, the unorthodox three-armed seconds hand scales below that, and the tourbillon under that. Beneath, the watch is powered by the exclusive in-house Caliber DR001 manual winding movement with 80 hours of power reserve, manufactured entirely at La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva under the direction of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

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More about Daniel Roth Watches:
A Quick History of Daniel Roth Watches

Mechanical Exception – Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1

Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1
Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – Winner of the Mechanical Exception Prize (Image: GPHG 2024)

The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 addresses a longstanding issue in world timers: Daylight Saving Time. Traditionally, collectors had to set world timers for either countries that observe Daylight Saving or those that don’t, leaving many time zones incorrect. Now, thanks to a unique roller-based display, the Récital 28 Prowess 1 ensures accuracy throughout the year. The watch’s 24 city rollers and a time-period roller, each printed on four sides, adjust automatically with a press of the sapphire cabochon on the crown. This mechanism allows all 25 rollers to turn in unison, displaying the correct time for every city, regardless of Daylight Saving adjustments.

In addition to this innovative world-time solution, the Récital 28 Prowess 1 watch includes a flying tourbillon, a roller-based perpetual calendar, and a 10-day power reserve from a single barrel. Developed over five years, the limited-edition watch (only 60 will be produced) features hand-finished, hand-engraved details, and its 46.3mm case is made from grade 5 titanium (also available in 18k red gold and950 platinum).

Price: CHF 702,650

Chronometry – Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer
Bernhard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer – Winner of the Chronometry Prize (Image: GPHG)

The Bernhard Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer pays tribute to the relentless pursuit of timekeeping precision. Led by master watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, this watch with its manual-winding movement has, aside from a COSC certification, three other certifications under its belt granted by the Besançon Observatory, the Glashütte Observatory, and Geneva’s Observatory Chronométrique. Using the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC) movement, Lederer bridges the gap between high-precision observatory chronometers and practical, everyday wristwatches. The watch features an innovative 10-second remontoire mechanism, regulating the minute hand’s movement in 10-second intervals, aligned with a unique scale on the dial.

Crafted in-house in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland, the watch’s solid silver dial, encased in a 44mm steel case, achieves its rich white finish through a complex heating process. The minute hand follows the rhythm of the remontoire d’égalité every 10 seconds, displayed on a scale divided into six steps — one scale for every 10 seconds for a total of a full minute. The watch, awarded the Chronometry award at GPHG 2024, is limited to only eight pieces.

Price: CHF 158,000

Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix – IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar

2024 GPHG Aiguille d'Or Grand Prix - IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar – Winner of the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix (Image: GPHG)

IWC Schaffhausen’s expertise in mechanical calendars began with Kurt Klaus’s revolutionary perpetual calendar in 1985, which automatically accounts for varying month lengths and leap years. Building on this significant legacy, IWC introduced the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, its first secular perpetual calendar that accounts for the leap year exceptions (if the year is divisible by 100 and not divisible by 400, the leap year is skipped; the next one will be 2100) that plagued perpetual calendars in the past. Remarkably, the watch operates with the same streamlined single-crown control as the regular perpetual calendar.

The watch also features an eternal moon phase display, which, thanks to an advanced three-wheel reduction gear train, requires adjustment only after an astounding 45 million years. Featuring a polished and brushed 44.4mm platinum case, the watch includes a glass dial and double box-glass sapphire crystal. Powered by IWC’s in-house Caliber 52640 with a 7-day power reserve, the movement uses the efficient Pellaton winding system, which leverages bi-directional rotor revolutions to maintain energy. Completing this exceptional mechanical watch, and the big winner of GPHG 2024, is a black alligator leather strap with a platinum folding clasp.

Price: CHF 150,000

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More About IWC Watches:
Review: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition “Lake Tahoe”
IWC 2024 Watches and Wonders Releases
Who Owns IWC?

GPHG 2024 – Final Thoughts

It was a big night for independent watchmaking at GPHG 2024, with many smaller, niche brands like Voutilainen, Moser, De Bethune, Bovet, Ming, and Kudoke taking home big prizes. Van Cleef & Arpels also had a super sucessful evening with three of its watches winning awards.

However, despite the wins of the indies and the jewelry-focused watchmaking, it was still IWC, a top luxury watch brand, that cinched the biggest victory of the night, the Grand Prix for its exceptional Eternal Calendar. Well deserved!

More About GPHG Watch Awards
And The Winners Are… the Winning Watches of 2023 GPHG
And The Nominees Are… the Best Watches from the 2023 GPHG Field

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The Best Yellow Gold Rolex Watches https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/yellow-gold-rolex-watches/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/yellow-gold-rolex-watches/#respond Wed, 13 Nov 2024 15:30:00 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=23275 When it comes to yellow gold watches, it’s hard to argue with Rolex’s dominance. For many, it’s the first brand […]

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When it comes to yellow gold watches, it’s hard to argue with Rolex’s dominance. For many, it’s the first brand that comes to mind, thanks to its extensive range of classic, sporty, and dressy pieces in this timeless precious metal. Given the rising popularity of yellow gold timepieces in today’s market, we’ve rounded up what we think are the best yellow gold Rolex watches available right now.

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Yellow gold Rolex Daytona "John Player Special"
Yellow gold Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”

Yellow Gold Day-Date

Of all the yellow gold Rolex watches ever made, the Day-Date, a.k.a., the President is perhaps the most emblematic of the brand. With its namesake calendar windows at 12 and 3 o’clock on the dial, signature President bracelet with semi-circular links in a three-piece configuration, and classic round case, a gold Day-Date has long been the “I’ve made it” watch.

Yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 40 ref. 228238
Yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 40 ref. 228238

Although Rolex offers the Day-Date in several precious metals, yellow gold is the classic choice — particularly when it’s paired with a fluted bezel. The most modern variations of a yellow gold Rolex President are the reference 128238 with a 36mm case or the reference 228238 with a 40mm case. Regardless of the size, a Date-Date is without a doubt one of the finest yellow gold Rolex watches to own.

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Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller

With its annual calendar complication, GMT display, and Ring Command Bezel that interacts with the movement, the Sky-Dweller is one of Rolex’s most complicated pieces. It has been a part of Rolex’s lineup since 2012 and since then we’ve witnessed a few minor updates to both its design and movement.

Yellow Gold Rolex Sky-Dweller ref. 336938
Yellow Gold Rolex Sky-Dweller ref. 336938

The most recent Sky-Dweller generation came out in 2023, retaining the same 42mm case, fluted bezel, and date, month, and two-time layout on the dial. The major change is found under the caseback where Caliber 9002 replaces Caliber 9001, featuring the Chronergy escapement. Rolex offers the Sky-Dweller in various metals including the full yellow gold reference 336938, which as of 2024 is available with either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet. There’s even an Oysterflex model (ref. 336238) if the bracelet is too much yellow gold for you. Given that the Sky-Dweller looks quite similar to the Day-Date (albeit a larger and more complicated version), it comes as no surprise that it’s a great-looking yellow gold Rolex watch.

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More About Sky-Dweller Watches
What is the Price of a Rolex Sky-Dweller in 2024?

Yellow Gold GMT-Master II

An opulent take on Rolex’s practical pilot’s watch, a yellow gold GMT-Master II is the perfect high-end watch for the luxury traveler. While yellow gold versions were introduced early in the GMT-Master’s history, Rolex discontinued them in 2019. Thankfully, at Watches & Wonders 2023, Rolex revived the yellow gold GMT-Master II in the form of the reference 126718GRNR.

Yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR
Yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR

Although the GMT-Master II ref. 126718GRNR retains the customary 40mm case size and 24-hour marked Cerachrom bezel, the gray and black colorway of said bezel was new to Rolex. Rolex opted to pair the watch with a Jubilee bracelet, which was the right choice. The other precious metal GMT-Master II watches of the same generation are exclusively paired with Oyster bracelets, which plays up the sportiness of the watch. Conversely, the Jubilee bracelet not only dresses up the watch but leans into that retro “Root Beer” vibe of vintage gold GMTs. The GRNR is hands-down one of the best modern yellow gold Rolex watches on the market.

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Yellow Gold Daytona Le Mans

In the summer of 2023, Rolex dropped a surprise release in honor of the 100th anniversary of the legendary Le Mans race — a special edition white gold Daytona with a black Cerachrom bezel, black reverse Panda dial with “Paul Newman”-inspired subdials, and an open display caseback for a view of the Caliber 4132 (which includes a 24-hour counter in honor of the 24-hour race). The watch was produced for less than a year, and discontinued at Watches & Wonders 2024.

Yellow gold Rolex Daytona Le Mans ref. 126528LN

However, Rolex quietly replaced the white gold Daytona Le Mans (ref. 126529LN) with a yellow gold version (ref. 126528LN), which in my opinion, looks even better than the original. It sports the same 40mm case and Oyster bracelet but of course, this time in 18k yellow gold. Similarly, the tri-compax dial is now punctuated with yellow gold hands and indices while the black Cerachrom bezel includes yellow gold markings. As expected, the “100” on the tachymeter scales remains red, just like the maiden Le Mans Daytona. The retail price of a yellow gold Le Mans is around $50,000; however, if you can find one of these super rare and ultra coveted pieces on the secondary market, expect to pay around $350,000 — underscoring that the market believes that this is one of the greatest yellow gold Rolex watches to get.

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Yellow Gold Yacht-Master

When Rolex debuted the Yacht-Master in 1992, it did so with a full gold model known as ref. 16628. From its yellow gold 40mm case and yellow gold rotating bezel to its solid gold Oyster bracelet, the Yacht-Master 16628 was Rolex’s most lavish sports watch at the time. Though the Yacht-Master didn’t share the same water-resistance rating as the Submariner (100 meters compared to 300 meters) and wasn’t technically a dive watch due to its bi-directional bezel, it did have a similar silhouette and dial, not to mention an identical movement.

Rare 16628 with lugholes
Yellow Gold Rolex Yacht-Master ref. 16628 with rare lugholes case

As a result, the Yacht-Master, particularly in solid yellow gold, was often regarded as a more luxurious iteration of the Submariner. In fact, the very first gold Yacht-Masters used the same case as the Submariner, featuring brushed lugs with lugholes. Those are hard to find because Rolex quickly transitioned to the more rounded and shiny no-holes cases we associate with Yacht-Masters today.

Rolex even furnished some Yacht-Masters with mother-of-pearl dials in various colors along with gem-set indices in black onyx, red rubies, or blue sapphires. Although the yellow gold Yacht-Master 16628 is no longer in production it remains an excellent choice on the secondary market.

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Other Choices

While we’ve selected the Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, GMT-Master II, Daytona Le Mans, and Yacht-Master as our favorite yellow gold Rolex watches the watching giant offers plenty of other options in the classic precious metal.

Rolex Submariner 16618
Rolex Submariner 16618

Take for example the highly popular yellow gold Submariner, which is available with either blue or black dials and bezels. For an even bigger solid gold dive watch, there’s also the yellow gold Deepsea 136668LB with a large 44mm case that’s water resistant to an impressive 3,900 meters. Rolex used to also make the Yacht-Master II in full yellow gold (ref. 116688) but it discontinued the entire collection in 2024.

Vintage Models

On the dressier side of things, there are also discontinued Datejust, Cellini, and Pearlmaster watches in yellow gold, not to mention the best-selling Lady-Datejust models (new and old).

Vintage Datejust with lapis lazuli dial
Vintage Datejust with lapis lazuli dial and barked bezel

If you’re looking for something funkier, than perhaps consider the yellow gold Oysterquartz Day-Date or King Midas.

Oysterquartz with pyramid details
Oysterquartz Day-Date with pyramid details

For vintage beauties, we can’t forget to mention the Rolex 6036 “Killy” triple calendar chronograph, the Rolex 6234 pre-Daytona chronograph, and the Rolex 6062 triple calendar moonphase. Then there are the vintage Daytona references in yellow gold (such as the John Player Special), which are some of the most collectible Rolex watches in the market.

Yellow gold Rolex 6036 "Killy" triple calendar chronograph
Rolex 6036 “Killy” triple calendar chronograph

Several kinds of interesting Rolex bezels were offered on vintage gold 34mm models. For a relatively affordable but interesting yellow gold Rolex, you can consider one of those–like a “Zephyr” ref. 6582 or 1008, for instance.

Rolex ref. 6582 "Zephyr" in full yellow gold
Rolex ref. 6582 “Zephyr”

In short, there are plenty of yellow gold Rolex watches to choose from, whether dressy or sporty, modern or vintage, new or pre-owned. If you’re missing one from your collection, the fun starts with finding the ideal one for your wrist.

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AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked: Now in White Ceramic https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/ap-royal-oak-double-balance-wheel-openworked-now-in-white-ceramic/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/ap-royal-oak-double-balance-wheel-openworked-now-in-white-ceramic/#respond Mon, 11 Nov 2024 21:53:40 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=23276 Traditionally, major luxury watch brands release most of their new models at big conventions like Watches & Wonders or Geneva […]

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Traditionally, major luxury watch brands release most of their new models at big conventions like Watches & Wonders or Geneva Watch Days. But increasingly, new luxury watches are being revealed online sporadically with little to no fanfare. This is one of those times: Audemars Piguet has just quietly released a white ceramic version of their popular and prestigious Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked.

AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in White Ceramic
Ref. 15416CB.OO.1225CB.01. Image: Audemars Piguet

According to Esquire Middle East, this watch was designed by collectors at a 2022 Dubai workshop the brand called “Create the Extraordinary.” This white ceramic openworked model is one of three limited edition watches designed at that event. It appeared on AP’s website on November 11, 2024 along with a meteorite Code 11.59 and an ultra-thin perpetual calendar with Eastern Arabic numerals.

What’s Different?

Aside from the color, the main difference between this white ceramic AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked and the two existing black ceramic versions is the aventurine inner bezel. It’s a tasteful but subtle touch. The impressive skeletonized movement and everything else you would expect are also present. Now let’s go over all the specs:

Ref. 15416CB.OO.1225CB.01, the white ceramic AP Double Balance Wheel Openworked released in 2024
Ref. 15416CB.OO.1225CB.01. Image: Audemars Piguet

White Ceramic AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Specs

SpecificationDetails
ModelRoyal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Reference15416CB.OO.1225CB.01
Case MaterialWhite ceramic
Case Size41mm
Case Thickness9.7mm
Water Resistance50m
CrystalGlareproofed sapphire (front and caseback)
DialSkeletonized with blue aventurine inner bezel
HandsBlack Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
BraceletWhite ceramic with AP folding clasp
MovementCalibre 3132 (Automatic, 6 beats per second, two balance wheels)
FunctionsHours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve45 hours
Limited Edition30 pieces
Market Value (2024)$375,000 (est.)
White Ceramic AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Specs

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White Ceramic AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Pricing and Availability

The actual market value of the White Ceramic AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel, limited to 30 pieces, will probably be around $375,000, given that the non-limited black ceramic version (15416CE.OO.1225CE.01) goes for around $260,000 and the 150-piece limited black version (15416CE.OO.1225CE.02) sells for $330,000. Plus the black ones don’t have cool stone inner bezels like the white version does. Initially all 30 examples will be sold exclusively at Audemars Piguet boutiques. Expect an MSRP around $110,000 if you’re lucky enough to be one of the few VIP’s who purchase one at retail price.

The aventurine inner bezel is nice
Ref. 15416CB.OO.1225CB.01. Image: Audemars Piguet

Thoughts

AP has really been leaning heavily into their Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked line lately, and this white ceramic one is the 21st model in the family. The first two models–one in steel and one in rose gold–came in 2016. 21 variants seems like a lot, but many of them are fancy gem-set references, plus skeleton watches are hot right now in general. Watches with full ceramic bracelets (something Chanel did first, interestingly) are also pretty hot these days, so I’m sure Audemars Piguet will have no trouble selling all 30. We’ll have to wait and see how many hundreds of thousands they’ll resale for, but I expect this to be another successful 2024 Audemars Piguet release.

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Why David Candaux is a Big Deal in Watchmaking https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/david-candaux/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/david-candaux/#respond Fri, 08 Nov 2024 16:30:00 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=22846 As watch fans, we tend to attribute designs and innovations to certain brands. But when it comes to truly groundbreaking […]

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As watch fans, we tend to attribute designs and innovations to certain brands. But when it comes to truly groundbreaking high-end complicated watch movements, there are a small number of individual elite watchmakers at the top doing most of the actual inventing. David Candaux is among that elite. If you’re into luxury watches, you might have heard of watches like the MB&F HM6 Space Pirate or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie even if you didn’t know David Candaux was involved. Since 2017, he’s been putting his efforts into his own brand, and D. Candaux watches are getting plenty of deserved attention in the over-$200,000 segment.

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Three watches influenced (or made) by David Candaux

With over 30 patents to his name (they’re listed later in this article), the amount of technical contributions that David Candaux has made to watchmaking is immense. He is arguably most known for 30° inclined tourbillons, movements made of titanium, a telescoping “magic crown” that pops up when you push it, and several improvements to both chiming watches and retrograde complications. In this article we’ll take you through various innovations he’s made for past clients and employers, as well as the impressive work his brand is doing today.

Career Path

Truly elite watchmakers often work in the restoration departments of established high-end brands early in their careers. Then, they’ll open up their own workshops and act as third-party consultants to many of those same brands, before shifting their focus to making watches under their own name. This was the path taken by Roger Smith, F.P. Journe, Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis, Kari Voutilainen, and now David Candaux.

David Candaux at work
David Candaux at work. Image: DavidCandaux.com

It was also the path of Philippe Dufour, who Candaux counts as a neighbor and mentor. Dufour, the man behind one of the most expensive watch brands in the world, is regarded by many as the greatest living watchmaker. He sponsored Candaux’s membership in the prestigious AHCI in 2017, at which point Candaux already had over 20 years of experience in the luxury watchmaking industry. The watch that Candaux submitted for consideration (the DC1) would become the first release under his own brand. But let’s start at the beginning.

As a third-generation watchmaker from the Vallée de Joux, Candaux began his fateful watchmaking apprenticeship at Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1994 when he was only 15 years old. He started working in the restoration department within a few years, and by age 22 he was running their watchmaker training program. And in 2005, when David Candaux was 25, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first watch based on his patented innovations hit the market. Even as he experienced success at JLC, he continued to take night classes to learn all the skills necessary to be a “complete watchmaker.” That means he can design, build, assemble and test almost every part of a watch himself.

Notable JLC Watches by David Candaux

Candaux would ultimately contribute to at least 13 patents while working for Jaeger-LeCoultre. They’re owned by Richemont, which is also the company who owns Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Van Cleef & Arpels, and many more. Candaux worked at JLC for 18 years, and a very special minute repeater was one of his first major innovations for them.

Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre (2005)

It’s worth noting that high-end watches are usually the result of the efforts of several people, and while David Candaux made significant contributions to all the watches we’re about to show you, others deserve some credit too. The Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre that debuted in 2005, for instance, has a movement based on a caliber by Eric Coudray–another member of the aforementioned watchmaker-inventor elite.

The partially skeletonized look is popular in the hyperwatch segment nowadays, but it was less common at the time. See this photo courtesy of Rostovsky Watches:

Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre. Photo: @rostovskywatches

This watch added one of Candaux’s earliest and most interesting patented innovations: a chiming mechanism that resonates directly through the crystal, rather than the metal case. That helps make the sound louder and clearer. Plus, the torque meter is an interesting (and advanced) complication that measures the torque coming from the mainspring. Note that this is not a power reserve indicator; it’s just measuring the current flow of power into the movement. Also notable is its 50m water resistance–very good for a minute repeater.

Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque (2006)

The first JLC Reverso model with three dials was the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque released in 2006. With three faces, six patents, and 18 complications, it’s an absolute monster of a watch. It took four years to develop, and its complications include some of the most prestigious in watchmaking, like a celestial sky chart and an equation of time indicator. The equation of time shows you the difference between “normal” time and solar time–i.e. how far off from noon will the sun actually be directly overhead?

JLC Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque

The coolest complication of all, though, has to be the “Cinderella” perpetual calendar. The perpetual calendar display is shown on the third (bottom) face of the JLC Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque, and it can be incredibly thin because it’s not actually connected to the gears/movement of the watch. However, every night at midnight (as long as the watch is closed), the movement advances the perpetual calendar display by one day. It’s a pretty cool example of modern outside-the-box thinking being applied to an ultra-traditional complication.

Hybris Mechanica à Grand Sonnerie (2009)

The 1,300-part Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grand Sonnerie is even more complicated than the Triptyque. It debuted in 2009 with a total of 26 complications including a perpetual calendar, grande sonnerie, power reserve indicators for both the sonnerie and the movement, retrograde date, a minute repeater that chimes the Westminster Quarters (the “Big Ben tune”), and many more. We know Candaux was instrumental in creating this watch, but other master artisans were undoubtedly involved as well.

JLC Hybris Mechanica à Grand Sonnerie
Hybris Mechanica à Grand Sonnerie. Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Hybris Mechanica à Grand Sonnerie was originally sold as part of a trio (including the aforementioned Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque as well as a Gyrotourbillon model and a fancy German safe to keep them all in) for $2.5 million. Note that it is not the most complicated wristwatch in the world, although it often gets mislabeled as such. That honor goes to Franck Muller’s 36-complication Aeternitas Mega.

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The Freelance Years (2011-2017)

After leaving JLC in 2011, Candaux began working on complicated movements for other brands via his own companies (Du Val Des Bois and later Hepta Swiss) with a small number of partners. Here are the watches that David Candaux worked on during his six-year freelance era (that we know of).

C.H. Meylan Jump Hour Prototype (2012)

One of David Candaux’s first innovations as a freelancer was an “annular ring” seconds hand for a 2012 C.H. Meylan prototype. Instead of a traditional seconds hand, a “floating” dot rotates around the edge of the dial. Interestingly, the seconds indicator on this watch only advances 3 times per second (8 is the modern standard and 5-6 is common on older watches). It also has a jump hour.

Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Wish (2012)

Van Cleef & Arpels, largely known as a jeweler, has made some legitimately impressive watches over the years. Their Poetic series is particularly exotic, and Candaux worked on the movement of the Poetic Wish, a 2012 ladies’ release.

Three versions of the Poetic Wish watch. Image: Van Cleef & Arpels

The Poetic Wish, interestingly, has a 5-minute repeater mechanism. Its unique retrograde hour mechanism is represented by a lady who “walks” from left to right, while the retrograde minutes marker is a kite, “flying” above the beautiful enamel artwork scene of the dial underneath. Candaux worked with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht on this watch, telling Monochrome that it was “exactly the kind of straightforward interaction and collaboration I wanted.”

Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle (2013)

Fonderie 47 is a jewelry and watch brand that was founded by Peter Thum, the guy behind the Ethos bottled water brand that Starbucks bought for $8 million in 2005. Ethos uses a portion of their revenue to provide sanitary water to African communities, while Fonderie 47’s mission is to destroy (and artistically recycle) as many AK47’s in Africa as possible.

According to their website, Fonderie 47 has destroyed 70,000 assault rifles and counting. Philanthropy aside, their 2013 release known as the Inversion Principle is a seriously cool watch: it has a tourbillon, a jump hour, and an expansive retrograde minutes indicator spanning 240° of the dial.

Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle, a watch David Candaux freelanced on
The Inversion Principle watch was only made in 20 examples. Half were white gold; half were rose gold. Image: Fonderie 47

“Never before has there been a watch with jumping hours with such large retrograde minutes,” David Candaux told Watch Collecting Lifestyle. Creating the Inversion Principle watch was an impressive technical feat by Candaux, and credit for the interesting design of this watch goes to Adrian Glessing. The central tourbillon rotates once every three minutes (instead of the typical once per minute), which allows a “quasi-retrograde” 60-second scale to be displayed using only 1/3 of the dial.

Each of the three evenly spaced teeth around the tourbillon cage spends 2/3 of its time hidden behind a gold gunsight-like ring, and thus the seconds are indicated by the one visible tooth. When one tooth reaches 60, it becomes hidden as another one emerges at 0. Two other interesting touches: a lateral power reserve indicator on the left side of the case, and a ratchet wheel capped with darkened steel from one of those destroyed AK-47’s. The six-day power reserve is also impressive.

Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle, a watch David Candaux freelanced on
The ratchet wheel of each Inversion Principle is capped with steel from a reclaimed AK-47. Image: Fonderie 47

As of November 2024 there are still some Inversion Principles available at $195,000, and the brand says each sale will fund the destruction of a thousand assault rifles. Obviously that’s a lot of money, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the remaining ones get snapped up soon as hardcore watch collectors increasingly realize what a big deal David Candaux is.

Bovet Dimier Récital 15 (2014)

Bovet is a very high-end and arguably underrated luxury watch brand today. David Candaux is listed as an inventor of a few patented technical movement improvements for Dimier 1738, Bovet’s in-house movement manufacturer.

Bovet Dimier Récital 15
Bovet Dimier Récital 15. Image: Bovet 1822

One of Candaux’s Bovet-owned patents is for an improved design of a retrograde mechanism, allowing it to be more compact. Although Bovet doesn’t publicly credit Candaux, I believe this retrograde design was used in the Bovet Dimier Récital 15, another jump hour watch. It was released in 2014–the same year that patent was filed.

MB&F Space Pirate (2014)

David Candaux’s best-known contribution during his freelance years is likely his work on the MB&F HM6 Space Pirate, also released in 2014. MB&F is known for making absolutely wild designs and the Space Pirate lives up to that reputation. It has ten separate sapphire crystals, including the exhibition caseback. There are two each covering the two turbines and the two spherical time displays (hours on the left, minutes on the right), as well as one over the central tourbillon.

MB&F Space Pirate in titanium
MB&F HM6 Space Pirate

The watch has two winding crowns. The right one sets the time, and the left one can raise/lower a spherical shield over the central tourbillon. It’s obviously not for everyone, but the Space Pirate has generated plenty of buzz and sells secondhand for just a bit less than $200,000 in titanium. Other versions have also been released, including a rose gold model and a sapphire-case model.

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Rebellion Sapphire Case (2016)

Candaux, undoubtedly a master of mechanical watch movements, proved his mastery of case production with the Rebellion Magnum 540 Grand Tourbillon Saphir in 2016. Sapphire-case luxury watches are among the most expensive and challenging watches to make. Even a sapphire case with a simple shape takes countless hours of grinding to form, and Rebellion’s case design is deceptively complex and angular.

Magnum 540 Grand Tourbillon Saphir (left) and RE-Volt Sapphire Blue (right). Image: Rebellion Watches

It took Candaux a lot of time (and specialized software) to engineer the 8-part sapphire case. Only four sapphire-case Rebellion watches were produced. The Magnum 540 Grand Tourbillon Saphir is a unique piece, and Rebellion later made three non-tourbillon “RE-Volt Sapphire” models, crafting one each in red, blue, and clear sapphire. According to Watchonista, each case took almost 800 hours of machining.

David Candaux Watch Brand (2017+)

The David Candaux brand was launched in 2017, and today it encompasses three families of watches: DC1, DC6, and DC7. Candaux works alongside his father (a former Patek Philippe restorer) and a couple of other artisans in a barn in Le Solliat, and it takes months of work to make each watch. They aim to eventually make 30 watches per year, although their output is probably half that right now.

Just as Luxury Bazaar CEO Roman Sharf believes “Purnell is the next Richard Mille,” he sees David Candaux as the next Rexhep Rexhepi. Simply the cream of the crop.

David Candaux DC6
DC6 Half Hunter

Six Key Traits of David Candaux Watches

  • Case diameter between 43-44mm
  • Retractable telescoping “magic crown” at 6 o’clock for winding and time-setting
  • Titanium movement
  • Sloped dial (the entire dial is actually tilted downward towards 6 o’clock for a better viewing angle)
  • Single-axis tourbillon inclined at 30°
  • Côtes du Solliat movement finishing (a proprietary finish similar to Côtes de Genève)
Photos hardly do the Côtes du Solliat justice.

While Greubel Forsey makes a 30° double tourbillon, that’s a bit different–that’s essentially a tourbillon nested within another tourbillon cage at an angle.

David Candaux uses single-axis tourbillons. Tourbillons theoretically perform slightly differently when they’re upright (i.e. perpendicular to gravitational force). The inclined tourbillon makes it less likely that the balance wheel will rest in exactly horizontal or vertical positions, thus reducing variance. Plus it looks sweet.

Candaux's signature inclined tourbillon

David Candaux’s First Watch Under His Own Brand: DC1 (2017)

The inclined tourbillon of the DC1, the debut release of the D. Candaux brand, fills a space on the dial that is horizontally symmetrical to that of the off-center time display. It’s a pretty cool look, especially with the push-button “magic crown” at 6 o’clock just waiting to be popped up like a heated-seat button on a Toyota. Candaux essentially engineered the watch’s whole movement around his special crown, and it’s perhaps his most inimitable design signature.

David Candaux DC1 in titanium
The DC1 is now available in a titanium case (shown). Image: DavidCandaux.com

The dial, which slopes downward from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock, adds some interesting visual depth. “I try to have perfect symmetry between 3 and 9 o’clock, and complete dissymmetry between 6 and 12 o’clock,” Candaux said in an interview with Tourbillon Watch Studio.

The power reserve window at the top of the dial is a nice touch, too. A few ultra-limited and even unique configurations of case materials and dial colors have been made. The DC1 was the world’s first watch with an all-titanium movement, and that has since become a hallmark of the brand. Titanium is notoriously labor-intensive to work with, and Candaux is proud of the proprietary techniques used by his brand to machine and finish titanium parts.

DC6 (2019)

The DC6 is arguably David Candaux’s most popular and interesting release so far. It’s very similar to the DC1, except for two key differences: first is the Pointe du Risoux guilloche dial texture, a handmade texture Candaux invented himself.

The Pointe du Risoux finish is applied painstakingly by hand.

The second difference is that, by removing the central seconds hand, Candaux negated the need for the sapphire crystal to cover the entire dial–so instead, there are two separate domed sapphire crystals covering both the tourbillon and the hour-and-minute display. You can literally touch the dial and feel the guilloche texture.

David Candaux DC6

A tooth was added to the tourbillon cage to act as a seconds indicator now that the central seconds hand is gone. The DC6 has been made with both titanium and carbon cases in a handful of colorways, but all of the variants have that signature Pointe du Risoux finish on the dial.

DC7 (2021)

The DC7, released in 2021, is the most straightforward and “normal” of David Candaux’s current offerings. A single sapphire crystal once again covers the entire dial, and it has central hour and minute hands–a first for the brand. The power reserve indicator is gone and the tourbillon is now at 12 o’clock, but the DC7 has all the other design cues you would expect from a D. Candaux watch, like a sloped dial and the now-familiar magic crown.

DC7
DC7 shown in two colorways. Image: DavidCandaux.com

David Candaux Watch Prices

The market value of David Candaux watches as of 2024 is generally around the $200,000-$280,000 range–close to their original retail prices.

Now, let’s look back at all the major David Candaux watchmaking patents that we know of.

David Candaux Patents

Here’s a list of over 30 patents that list Candaux as an inventor. Note that for many of these, he isn’t the only inventor. One particularly frequent collaborator is Gaetan Willemin, now of Jämes Aubert Le Brassus S.A.–a high-end watchmaking subcontractor.

Patent NumberPriority DateDescriptionPatent Owner
US2008165630A12005-03-11Fastening mechanism for watch gongs that directly attaches them to the watch crystal, causing sound to transmit through the crystal (which improves the volume and sound quality)Jaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
EP1837718A12006-03-21Novel direct-impulse escapement mechanism, featuring a unique blocker with a rest ellipse and positioning arm, designed to reduce friction and potentially eliminate the need for lubrication in the escapement systemJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
EP2048548A22007-10-10Hammer mechanism for a striking complication with a two-part articulated design for a clearer/louder chimeJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH700088A22009-01-13Compact spherical differential mechanism with a torque-limiting device that uses friction coupling to enable precise power reserve indication while preventing damage from overwindingJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
EP2207069A22009-01-12Support element for mounting multiple striking gongs in a timepiece, featuring a stepped face that allows for precise parallel alignment of multiple gongs while ensuring efficient sound transmission through a single, rigid connection to the watch caseJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH700987A22009-05-15Elastic fixation device for attaching bridges to plates, increasing compactness and serviceabilityJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701217A22009-06-04Return device for hammer pallets in a chiming watch mechanism that uses elastic force to enable the return of multiple hammer pallets simultaneouslyJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701227A22009-06-08Hammer speed regulator that combines centrifugal mass displacement with a progressive friction-based energy dissipation system to make chiming more precise/consistentJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701257A22009-06-11Striking mechanism with coaxially arranged cams for hours, minutes, and quarters, along with a unique shutter mechanism for quarter-hour strikes, all designed to improve compactness and manual time-setting reliability in complex chiming watchesJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701256A22009-06-11Chiming mechanism with 15-step snail cam (instead of the usual 60), eliminating the need for a “surprise mechanism” found in most minute repeatersJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701200A22009-06-11Striking mechanism with a retractable drive tooth on the rack, allowing for better-controlled activation of the striking hammersJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701258A2 / CH701255A22009-06-11Striking mechanism with a direct kinematic link to the movement, ensuring accurate chiming even soon after manual time-settingJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701359A22009-06-26Mechanism that prevents manual time adjustment while a watch is chiming, protecting it from potential damageJaeger-LeCoultre (Richemont)
CH701671A22009-08-17Push-button time-setting mechanism (instead of a crown)Gaetan Willemin, David Candaux
CH701670A22009-08-17Automatic winding mechanism with a movable horn connected to a flexible membrane, allowing the watch to be wound with angular movementGaetan Willemin, David Candaux
CH705986A22012-01-15Novel double-toothed wheel featuring two conical gear sets with different angles on a single pieceBadollet
EP2869137A12013-11-04Compact power reserve indicator using a threaded axis and rotating cam (suitable for watches with fusée-and-chain systems, unlike most PR indicators)Ferdinand Berthoud (Chopard)
EP2869139A12013-11-04Tourbillon mechanism with an “interlocking puzzle piece”-like coupling between the cage and driving wheel, eliminating screws and allowing for larger wheel diameter and simplified assemblyFerdinand Berthoud (Chopard)
EP2869134A12013-11-04A compact “flying” barrel design with a transmission axis integrated within the barrel arbor, allowing complications to be powered by barrel rotation without a differentialFerdinand Berthoud (Chopard)
EP2869135A12013-11-04Cantilevered fusée system eliminating the need for a supporting bridge and incorporating a differential gear mechanismFerdinand Berthoud (Chopard)
CH709204A22014-01-20Control device with a rack-and-spring system, allowing compact retrograde displaysDimier 1738 (Bovet)
US2017336760A12014-09-02A rotating ring around the movement with a mark on it (instead of a traditional hand)C.H. Meylan
CH710344A12014-11-07Simplified small and efficient bidirectional automatic winding mechanismDavid Candaux Horlogerie créative
CH710674A22015-01-18Balance wheel featuring T-shaped arms with a reinforced upper portion, allowing for thinner and lighter armsDimier 1738 (Bovet)
CH710636A22015-01-18Winding mechanism with spherical planetary gear system, enabling faster windingDimier 1738 (Bovet)
CH710675A22015-01-18Three-dimensional, multi-engagement tooth profile that combines a radial gear with a conical gear (seems to be an improvement on the 2012 patent)Dimier 1738 (Bovet)
CH710893A12015-03-18Optimized, modular tourbillon mechanismDe Grisogono
CH710914A12015-03-26Method for manufacturing anisotropic micromechanical components, such as balance wheels and tourbillon cages, using composite materials with precisely oriented fibersConvergence Composite
CH712032A22016-01-08Waterproof push-button mechanism for advancing a date (or other complication)Dimier 1738 (Bovet)
EP3206090A12016-02-08Movement with two inclined balance wheels on opposite sides of a central plane, connected to separate escapements and a single mainspringHepta Swiss SA
EP3208662A12016-02-08Movement with a two-spring constant-force mechanism (not a remontoire, but similar)Hepta Swiss SA
CH712484A12016-05-24Retractable “Magic Crown” with a telescopic control stem that engages different watch functions at different axial positionsHepta Swiss SA
CH712485A12016-05-24Movement that optimizes space within a flat-bottomed watch case by using slightly inclined accessory mechanismsHepta Swiss SA
CH713611A12017-03-23Improved power reserve indicator mechanism with a guided cam system that moves linearly along a threaded shaft without rotating (suitable for watches with fusée-and-chain systems, unlike most PR indicators)D. Candaux Sàrl
David Candaux Patents

What’s Next for David Candaux?

Candaux has told collectors to expect a new line of watches in 2025 called the DC12, featuring a new movement. It will probably have a magic crown, and phenomenal finishing, but we can’t predict much beyond that. We’re looking forward to it.

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Universal Genève’s After-Sales Service and Heritage Department is Open for Business https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/universal-geneve-service-center/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/universal-geneve-service-center/#respond Wed, 06 Nov 2024 17:41:11 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=23013 Universal Genève was once one of the top watchmakers in Switzerland, with their headquarters appropriately located right between those of […]

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Universal Genève was once one of the top watchmakers in Switzerland, with their headquarters appropriately located right between those of Patek Philippe and Rolex. Like many once-glorious watch companies, they were bankrupted by the “quartz crisis,” and the brand is currently on its third post-quartz corporate revival. Fortunately for fans of their vintage pieces, this reboot includes a Universal Genève After-Sales Service and Heritage Department that aims to restore as many of their old watches as they can. And even though this version of Universal Geneve hasn’t released any watches aside from a set of three one-off Polerouters, their service center is already operational.

Universal Geneve Tri-Compax
Vintage Universal Genève Tri-Compax, a model worn by US President Harry Truman. Photo: Nakata Jun

After a fairly cool but brief 1990s reboot, and a super lame 2000s reboot, now that Breitling has bought Universal Genève this looks to be the most credible attempt at reinvigorating the brand yet. Watch geeks have been wondering if Breitling would take UG upscale, and having a service center with a heritage department certainly points that way.

How Old of a Watch Will They Service?

Universal Geneve is aiming to service watches that are up to roughly 90 years old. Depending on the level of damage and the parts that are needed, though, restoration may not be possible for every watch. Universal Genève’s service department confirmed to Luxury Bazaar that they “no longer have any components prior to the 1930s.”

Which Models Can They Service?

“We carry out overhauls on all our models,” Universal Genève told us. So even quartz models are on the table, subject to parts availability. All of their popular vintage models like the Compax, Tri-Compax, Polerouter and White Shadow should be no problem unless they’re severely damaged.

White Shadow and Polerouter Date
White Shadow (left) and Polerouter Date (right). Image: Nakata Jun

Can Universal Genève Service My Watch?

While many of the top luxury watch brands operate on a send-your-watch-in-first basis, a Universal Geneve service starts with a few quick photos. Take a few clear shots of both sides of the watch, with all numbers visible, send them to sav@universalgeneve.com and within 2-3 weeks the Universal Genève service team should tell you whether or not to even bother sending it in.

Universal Genève Service Cost

Universal Geneve declined to give us a “baseline” service cost, as they really prefer to take things on a case-by-case basis. We do know that the cost of a quote is CHF 150 (about $170) which will be applied to the service if you accept. Keep in mind that, in general, there’s a worldwide skilled watchmaker shortage going on. Don’t expect to pay too much less than $1,000 for a proper full service of any quality vintage watch.

Universal Geneve Unicompax and Disco Volante watches
Uni-Compax and disco volante models. Image: Universal Genève

There’s still a lot we don’t know about the direction that UG will go, but it bodes well that they respect their history enough to staff a heritage department with skilled watchmakers capable of restoring vintage pieces. Collector interest in vintage Universal Genève models–particularly the “Nina Rindt” chronograph and the Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter–has been on an upswing in recent years, and this can only help.

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2024 Breitling Watch Releases https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/breitling-2024-releases/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/breitling-2024-releases/#respond Sun, 03 Nov 2024 14:38:13 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=14937 How does one of the leading Swiss watch manufacturers celebrate its 140th anniversary?  With a slew of new releases, of […]

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How does one of the leading Swiss watch manufacturers celebrate its 140th anniversary?  With a slew of new releases, of course!  As of the writing of this article, Breitling (founded in 1884!)  has added new novelties to most of its collections, including the Navitimer, Superocean, Professional, and Chronomat.  Breitling promised a year full of special launches, and indeed there have been plenty of new Breitling watches released throughout 2024. Let’s unpack all the 2024 Breitling releases.

Listen to the podcast episode about this article

Three 2024 Breitling releases
Three Breitling 2024 releases: Aerospace B70 Orbiter, Endurance Pro 38, and Navitimer 41

Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter

Earlier in the year, Breitling released the Aerospace B70 Orbiter, a 25th-anniversary edition of the brand’s multifunction chronograph. 2024 marks exactly 25 years since two ambitious pilots, Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones, became the first to circumnavigate the globe in a balloon without stopping. Breitling sponsored the duo in what would end up being one of the last flight challenges of the 20th century.

Aerospace B70 Orbiter
Aerospace B70 Orbiter. Image: Breitling

For 2024, this special edition watch introduces the collection–which supercedes the Aerospace Evo–to the caliber B70, a new SuperQuartz™ movement developed exclusively for the Breitling Aerospace. The movement, advertised by Breitling as 10x more precise than other quartz calibers, boasts a 1/100th second chronograph, alarm function, second time zone, and perpetual calendar.  The watch is lightweight titanium and features a bright orange gradient dial and matching orange mission logo in the same hue as the Orbiter 3.  Remarkably, a piece of the original Orbiter 3 balloon is tucked beneath the sapphire crystal on the case back. So far, there is no word from Breitling on whether or not the B70 Orbiter model will be a limited edition watch.

Aerospace B70 Orbiter Specs:

Model:Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter
References:EB70101A1O1E1
(metal bracelet)
EB70101A101S1
(rubber strap)
Case:Titanium
43mm diameter
52.2mm lug-to-lug
12.9mm thick
Bezel:Bi-directional Titanium
Dial:Orange gradient digital/analog
Bracelet/Strap:Titanium
Black rubber
Movement:Caliber Breitling B70
Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™
2-year battery life
Functions:1/100th of a second chronograph, countdown timer, additional time zone, two alarms, perpetual calendar, weeks indication
Water Resistance:100 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$4,900 (metal bracelet)
$4,700 (rubber strap)
Aerospace B70 Orbiter

More on Breitling:
The Best Entry-Level Breitling Watches
The Best Breitling Watch
A Collector’s Guide to the Breitling Emergency
Who is Universal Genève and Why Did Breitling Buy Them?

2024 Breitling Navitimer Releases

Breitling set out on a campaign in 2022 to refresh the Navitimer, a pilot’s watch with a slide-rule bezel.  It began with the Navitimer B01 Chronograph in a bevy of exciting case sizes and dial colors and continues in 2024 with the Navitimer 41, Navitimer GMT 41, and the Navitimer Cosmonaute. The Cosmonaute is a limited edition chronograph, while the other two are time-only and GMT/date models.

Breitling Navitimer 41

The first is the Breitling Navitimer 41, a time-only edition of the collection available in a nice variety of design sets. Options include either stainless steel, two-tone (stainless steel/18k red gold), or full 18k red gold.  From there, collectors have their choice of a matching metal Navitimer bracelet or leather and either blue, ice blue, or green dials for the stainless steel models and silver for both gold variants. It’s a versatile edition of the Navitimer punctuated by a clean and understated dial and a contemporary notched bezel.

Stainless steel 2024 Breitling Navitimer releases. Image: Breitling

Each case measures 41mm in diameter and 11.6mm thick and boasts a very modest 30-meter depth rating and a cambered, glare-proof sapphire crystal.  Breitling supplied the collection with the B17, an ETA-based self-winding movement with 28,800 VPH and a 38-hour power reserve.  The collection’s most iconic feature, the slide rule, surrounds the case and assists the wearer in recording various stats in the air, such as fuel consumption and rate of climb.

Breitling Navitimer 41 Specs:

Model:Breitling Navitimer 41Breitling Navitimer 41Breitling Navitimer 41
References:A17329161C1A1
(blue/bracelet)
A17329161C1P1
(blue/leather)
A17329171C1A1
(ice blue/bracelet)
A17329171C1P1
(ice blue/leather)
A17329371L1A1
(green/bracelet)
A17329371L1P1
(green/leather)
U17329F41G1U1
(bracelet)
U17329F41G1P1
(leather)
R17329F41G1R1
(bracelet)
R17329F41G1P1
(leather)
Case:Stainless steel
41mm diameter
46.8mm lug-to-lug
11.6mm thick
Two-tone: stainless steel/18k red gold
41mm diameter
46.8mm lug-to-lug
11.6mm thick
18k red gold
41mm diameter
46.8mm lug-to-lug
11.6mm thick
Dial:Ice blue
Dark blue
Green
SilverSilver
Bezel:Bi-directional
Slide rule
Bi-directional
Slide rule
Bi-directional
Slide rule
Bracelet/Strap:7-link metal bracelet
Leather strap
7-link metal bracelet
Leather Strap
7-link metal bracelet
Leather strap
Movement:Caliber 17
Automatic
38-hour power reserve
Caliber 17
Automatic
38-hour power reserve
Caliber 17
Automatic
38-hour power reserve
Functions:Central hours, minutes, and secondsCentral hours, minutes, and secondsCentral hours, minutes, and seconds
Water Resistance:30 meters30 meters30 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP)$5,600 (bracelet)
$5,300 (leather)
$9,750 (bracelet)
$7,500 (leather)
$35,950 (bracelet)
$15,000 (leather)
Breitling Navitimer 41

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Breitling Navitimer GMT 41

The Navitimer GMT builds upon the foundation of the time-only Navitimer 41 by adding a GMT option to the mix. It features the caliber 32, which is also an ETA-based movement but features a slightly longer 42-hour power reserve, date display, and a GMT hand that operates independently of the other centrally-mounted hands.  The current production collection includes four models, three of which are stainless steel and one of which is 18k red gold.

Some 2024 Breitling Navitimer GMT releases. Image: Breitling

The red gold model sports a green dial, while the stainless steel trio is available with either a silver, black, or light blue dial. Additionally, collectors have their choice of a leather strap or metal Navitimer bracelet.

Even though Breitling has added a GMT function to the dial, it still retains the clean and understated aesthetic of the time-only model.  The only difference between the two is the 24-hour scale at the dial’s center, a date window at 6 o’clock, and the additional arrow-tipped hand. The rest of the specs are the same, including the 41mm case, 11.6 profile, 30-meter depth rating, cambered sapphire crystal, and convenient slide rule bezel.

Breitling Navitimer GMT 41 Specs:

Model:Breitling Navitimer GMT 41Breitling Navitimer GMT 41
References:A32310171C1P1
(ice blue dial/leather)
A32310171C1A1
(ice blue/bracelet)
A32310251B1P1
(black dial/leather)
A32310251B1A1
(black dial/bracelet)
A32310211G1P1
(silver dial/leather)
A32310211G1A1
(silver dial/bracelet)
R32310251L1P1
(green/leather)
R32310251L1R1
(green/bracelet)
Case:Stainless steel
41mm diameter
46.8mm lug-to-lug
11.6mm thick
18k red gold
41mm diameter
46.8mm lug-to-lug
11.6mm thick
Dial:Ice blue
Black
Silver
Green
Bezel:Bi-directional
Slide rule
Bi-directional
Slide rule
Bracelet/Strap:7-link metal bracelet
Leather strap
7-link metal bracelet
Leather strap
Movement:Caliber 32
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Caliber 32
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Functions:Central hours, minutes, and seconds, second time zoneCentral hours, minutes, and seconds, second time zone
Water Resistance:30 meters30 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP)$5,850 (leather)
$6,200 (bracelet)
$15,600 (leather)
$36,500 (bracelet)
Breitling Navitimer GMT 41

Limited Edition Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B12

Breitling made history in 1962 by sending the first Swiss-made chronograph wristwatch into space during the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission.  That watch was the Navitimer Cosmonaute, a custom variation of the Navitimer made for astronaut Scott Carpenter with a 24-hour scale instead of traditional hour markers to help him distinguish between AM and PM hours in orbit.

Limited Edition Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B12
Navitimer Cosmonaute B12. Image: Breitling

Ref. RB12302A1L1P1 is a tribute to that history-making watch from the space race era, produced in limited quantities of 250 watches and featuring a similar 24-hour dial as the 1960s model. The commemorative case back is engraved with the mission date “MAY 24th, 1962,” the distinction, “FIRST SWISS WRISTWATCH IN SPACE,” and “XX OF 250 NAVITIMER COSMONAUTE.”

The watch is made even more exclusive in lustrous 18k red gold and features a contemporary black and green dial, gold Arabic hour markers to match the red gold case, and an exhibition case back to display the decorated caliber B12, including a nice view of the red gold Breitling oscillating weight. Like the other new Navitimer releases, the case is 41mm in diameter, waterproof up to 30 meters, and features a cambered sapphire crystal. However, this model is slightly thicker at 13.6mm and is 47mm lug-to-lug.

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B12 Specs:

Model:Breitling Navitimer B12 Cosmonaute
Reference:RB12302A1L1P1
Case:18k red gold
41mm diameter
47mm lug-to-lug
13.6mm thick
Bezel:Bi-directional
Slide rule
Dial:Black and green
Bracelet/Strap:Leather
Movement:Caliber B12
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Water Resistance:30 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$22,000
Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B12

2024 Releases from Other Brands:
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Top 2024 Releases from Independent Watchmakers

2024 Breitling Endurance Pro Releases

Breitling released the Endurance Pro in 2020, a collection of Breitlight® —aka carbon composite—watches with thermocompensated “SuperQuartz™” movements. A 38mm mid-size model and a newer-style rubber strap join the lineup in 2024.

Breitling Endurance Pro 44mm and 38mm

When the Endurance Pro was released a few years ago, it initially only featured a 44mm case and white, blue, yellow, orange, and red models. Red and yellow have since been replaced by a stylish light blue option.  Additionally, the collection is available with either a newer, more under-the-radar textured rubber strap or the original “BREITLING” embossed rubber strap. The real buzz, however, is that the “ultimate athleisure watch” is now available in 38mm.  The new size comes in white, light blue, red, purple, or pink. The last two are exclusive to the 38mm model.  Each variation features colorful accents on the dial and crown to match the rubber strap.

Breitling 2024 release: Endurance Pro 38 in purple
Endurance Pro 38 in purple. Image: Breitling

Both sizes are presented in Breitlight®, a highly resilient material that is lighter than titanium and steel. Both case sizes feature bi-directional bezels with compass scales, pulsometer scales surrounding the dial, tri-compax dials, 100-meter depth ratings, and flat sapphire crystals. 44mm models are powered by the caliber 82, while the new 38mm Breitling is powered by the caliber 83.  Both are “thermocompensated” movements with a special regulating system to combat temperature variations and feature a date and chronograph function.

Breitling Endurance Pro 44mm and 38mm Specs:

Model:Breitling Endurance Pro 38Breitling Endurance Pro 44Breitling Endurance Pro 44
References:X83310D91B2S1
(red rubber)
X83310F61B1S1
(purple rubber)
X83310D41B1S1
(pink rubber)
X83310A71B1S1
(white rubber)
X83310281B1S1
(light blue rubber)
X82310D51B1S2
(blue textile strap)
X82310A51B1S2
(orange textile strap)
X82310A71B1S2
(white textile strap)
X82310281B1S2
(lt. blue textile strap)
X82310D51B1S1
(blue BREITLING strap)
X82310A51B1S1
(orange BREITLING strap)
X82310A71B1S1
(white BREITLING strap)
X82310281B1S1
(lt. blue BREITLING strap)
Case:Breitlight®
38mm diameter
45.7mm lug-to-lug
12.1mm thick
Breitlight®
44mm diameter
52.4mm lug-to-lug
12.5mm thick
Breitlight®
44mm diameter
52.4mm lug-to-lug
12.5mm thick
Dial:Black/colorful accents to match the rubber strapBlack/colorful accents to match the rubber strap.Black/colorful accents to match the rubber strap.
Bezel:Bidirectional
Compass scale
Bidirectional
Compass scale
Bidirectional
Compass scale
Bracelet/Strap:RubberRubber textileRubber BREITLING
Movement:Caliber 83
Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™
3-4 year battery life
Caliber 82
Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™
2 year battery life
Caliber 82
Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™
2 year battery life
Functions:Chronograph: 1/10th second, 30 minutes
Date
Chronograph: 1/10th second, 30 minutes
Date
Chronograph: 1/10th second, 30 minutes
Date
Water Resistance:100 meters100 meters100 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$3,250$3,400$3,400
Breitling Endurance Pro 44mm and 38mm

2024 Breitling Chronomat Releases

Breitling beefed up its Chronomat collection for 2024 with collaborations with pro basketball player Giannis Antetokounmpo, fashion mogul Victoria Beckham, and NFL quarterback Boomer Esiason. This year also brought us the first 28mm model. Read on to learn more about the collection’s newest novelties.

Breitling Chronomat Super Bowl LVIII

Breitling released a new limited edition Chronomat just in time for Super Bowl LVIII, paying homage to longtime brand ambassador and NFL quarterback Boomer Esiason. Proceeds from each sale go directly to the Boomer Esiason Foundation.

2024 Breitling Release: Chronomat Super Bowl LVIII
Breitling Chronomat Super Bowl LVIII. Image: Breitling

Ref. RB01343A1C1S1 stays true to the standard Chronomat B01 42 format, featuring the same 42mm case, cambered sapphire crystal, and uni-directional 60-minute bezel.  It also boasts the caliber 01 self-winding movement and water resistance up to 200 meters. The case back is unique to the Super Bowl LVIII Breitling, featuring a colorful Super Bowl logo on the underside of the crystal and an engraved limited production number.

Breitling Chronomat Super Bowl LVIII Specs:

Model:Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII
References:RB01343A1C1S1
(rubber strap)
RB01343A1C1R1
(red gold bracelet)
Case:18k red gold
42mm diameter
50.5mm lug-to-lug
15.1mm thick
Bezel:Unidirectional 60-minute
Dial:Black and Blue
Bracelet/Strap:Rubber rouleaux
18k red gold rouleaux
Movement:Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Water Resistance:200 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$23,500 (strap)
$42,500 (bracelet)
Breitling Chronomat Super Bowl LVIII

Limited Edition Breitling Chronomat Giannis Antetokounmpo Watches

Breitling has teamed up with brand ambassador and professional basketball player Giannis Antetokounmpo to release a pair of limited-edition Chronomats. A stainless steel Chronomat GMT 40 will be produced in quantities of 1,750, while the more exclusive 18k red gold Chronomat B01 42 will be made in just 250 pieces. This run of 2,000 pieces in total was designed partly by the noted watch enthusiast himself. 

These Giannis Antetokounmpo Chronomats are a limited 2024 Breitling release. Image: Breitling

Both models feature an elegant yet sporty muted green dial chosen by Antetokounmpo.  The seconds hands on both watches feature a “GA” counterweight, while the chronograph model is also decorated with the outline of a basketball in the 9-hour sub-dial.  At the same time, Antetokounmpo has respected Breitling’s enduring design codes by including the brand’s trademark rider tab bezel and rouleaux-style bracelet in steel and rubber.

Limited Edition Breitling Chronomat Giannis Antetokounmpo Specs:

Model:Limited Edition Giannis Antetokounmpo Chronomat GMTLimited Edition Giannis Antetokounmpo Chronomat B01
References:A32398A11L1A1RB01344A1L1S1
(rubber strap)
RB01344A1L1R1
(bracelet)
Case:Stainless steel
40mm diameter
47.4mm lug-to-lug
11.7mm thick
18k red gold
42mm diameter
50.5mm lug-to-lug
15.1mm thick
Dial:GreenGreen panda
Bezel:Unidirectional 60-minuteUni-directional 60-minute
Bracelet/Strap:Stainless steel rouleauxGreen rubber rouleaux
Red gold rouleaux
Movement:Caliber 32
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Date, second time zoneChronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Water-Resistance:200 meters200 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP):$6,150$23,000 (strap)
$42,500 (bracelet)
Limited Edition Breitling Chronomat Giannis Antetokounmpo

Breitling x Victoria Beckham Chronomat 36

Victoria Beckham has extended her posh sense of style to a new limited-edition Breitling Chronomat 36, featuring six ultra-chic steel and 18k yellow gold models and a handful of gorgeous dial options inspired by her Spring/Summer 2024 palette.  At their core, the watches designed by Beckham are standard Chronomat 36 watches, including the caliber 10 self-winding movement, three-hand dial with date, and 100-meter depth rating.

The Victoria Beckham 2024 Breitling Chronomat releases include both gold and steel versions
The Victoria Beckham 2024 Breitling Chronomat releases include both gold and steel versions. Image: Breitling

The limited production run sets the new models apart from the rest of the lineup. Breitling will only produce 100 pieces of each yellow gold variant and 400 pieces of each stainless steel variant, as indicated on the dial just above 6 o’clock. It’s also worth noting that this model is the first in the collection to feature yellow gold in quite some time. We wouldn’t expect anything less from the daring Posh Spice.

Breitling x Victoria Beckham Chronomat 36 Specs:

Model:Chronomat 36 Victoria BeckhamChronomat 36 Victoria BeckhamChronomat 36 Victoria Beckham
References:A103801A1C1A1
(midnight blue dial)
A103801A1L1A1
(peppermint dial)
A103801A1G1A1
(dove gray)
K103801A1L1K1
(peppermint)
K103801A1A1K1
(sand)
K103801A1C1K1
(midnight blue)
Case:Stainless steel
36mm diameter
43.3mm lug-to-lug
10.0mm thick
Stainless steel
36mm diameter
43.3mm lug-to-lug
10.0mm thick
18k yellow gold
36mm diameter
43.3mm lug-to-lug
10.0mm thick
Dial:Midnight blue
Peppermint
Dove gray/diamond hour markersMidnight blue
Peppermint
Sand
Bezel:Unidirectional 60-minuteUni-directional 60-minuteUni-directional 60-minute
Bracelet/Strap:RouleauxRouleauxRouleaux
Movement:Caliber 10
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Caliber 10
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Caliber 10
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Functions:Hours, minutes, seconds, dateHours, minutes, seconds, dateHours, minutes, seconds, date
Water-Resistance:100 meters100 meters100 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP):$5,600$5,950$29,500
Breitling x Victoria Beckham Chronomat 36

Breitling Chronomat 28

2024 brought us the smallest version of the Chronomat, a svelte 28mm model with a dazzling array of feminine design options such as diamonds, Mother-of-Pearl, and even precious metals. Four models were released: two in stainless steel with plain bezels and either a pink or blue dial, one in stainless steel with a diamond-encrusted bezel and a mesmerizing black dial, and one in two-tone and with a diamond bezel and lovely white dial. Every dial is genuine Mother-of-Pearl and features lab-grown diamond hour markers and Super-LumiNova.

Breitling Chronomat 28 Ref. A72310531G1A1 Stainless Steel and Diamond Bezel

The slender new watches are accompanied by the emblematic Rouleaux bracelet (which made a serious comeback in 2020) and the Breitling caliber 72 Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™ movement. It’s also worth mentioning that the bezels are fixed but still feature the collection’s signature rider tabs every 15 minutes, honoring the Chronomat’s enduring design codes.

Breitling Chronomat 28 Specs:

Model:Breitling Chronomat 28
References:A72310101C1A1 (stainless steel/plain bezel/blue dial)
A72310101K1A1 (stainless steel/plain bezel/pink dial)
A72310531G1A1 (stainless steel/diamond bezel/black dial)
U72310531A1U1 (two-tone/diamond bezel/white dial)
Case:Stainless steel, stainless steel/red gold
28mm diameter
34.6mm lug-to-lug
8.46mm thick
Bezel:Fixed; plain or diamond
Dial:Mother-of-Pearl
Pink, blue, black, white
Bracelet/Strap:Rouleaux
Movement:Caliber 72
Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™
3 – 4 year battery life
Functions:Hours, minutes, seconds
Water Resistance:100 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):
$4,800 (stainless steel/plain bezel)
$7,000 (stainless steel/diamond bezel)
$10,250 (stainless steel/18k red gold)
Chronomat 28 Specs

2024 Breitling Avenger Releases

Earlier in the year, Breitling released three limited edition U.S. Navy Night Mission watches, honoring the United States Naval Academy and two air test squadrons, the Dust Devils and the Bloodhounds. Since then, Breitling has added several more variations to the Avenger fold, including new Night Mission models with colorful strap options, new Super Avenger watches in Titanium, and a handful of 42mm Avenger chronographs with the B01 movement.

Breitling Avenger U.S. Naval Edition Night Mission Watches

This year, Breitling extended its ready-for-anything Avenger pilot’s watch to include a special collaboration with the United States Naval Academy.  The three models from the Avenger Night Mission collection are decorated with the colors and emblems of the U.S. Navy Bloodhounds Squadron (grey/yellow), the U.S. Navy Dust Devils Squadron (red/black), and the U.S. Naval Academy (blue/gold).  All three feature 44mm black ceramic cases engraved with their respective units on the back, matching uni-directional bezels, and water resistance up to 300 meters.

Three US Navy-themed Avenger B01 Chronograph Night Mission versions: US Naval Academy (left), USN  Dust Devils (center) and USN Bloodhounds (Right)
Three US Navy-themed Avenger B01 Chronograph Night Mission versions: US Naval Academy (left), USN Dust Devils (center) and USN Bloodhounds (Right). Image: Breitling

The US Naval Academy model has a refined and almost collegiate aesthetic, thanks to the ornate emblem at 9 o’clock, matte navy dial, and gold accents. A mischievous dust devil with guns a-blazin’ adorns the matte black dial on the USN Dust Devils model, and the USN Bloodhounds model is menacing with the three-headed dog emblem set against a gray dial. The accompanying military leather straps are decorated with color palettes to match the USN dials.

Breitling Avenger U.S. Naval Edition Specs:

Model:Avenger B01 Chronograph Night Mission US Naval AcademyAvenger B01 Chronograph Night Mission USN Dust DevilsAvenger B01 Chronograph Night Mission USN Bloodhounds
Reference:SB01474A1C1X1SB01473A1B1X1SB01472A1B1X1
Case:Ceramic
44mm diameter
53mm lug-to-lug
15.2mm thick
Ceramic
44mm diameter
53mm lug-to-lug
15.2mm thick
Ceramic
44mm diameter
53mm lug-to-lug
15.2mm thick
Dial:Navy blue/goldBlack/redGrey/yellow
Bezel:Unidirectional 60 minutesUni-directional 60 minutesUni-directional 60 minutes
Bracelet/Strap:Navy blue fabric texture military leather strapBlack/red fabric texture military leather strapBlack/yellow fabric texture military leather strap
Movement:Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Water Resistance:300 meters300 meters300 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP):$10,200$10,200$10,200
Breitling Avenger U.S. Naval Edition Watches

Green Breitling Super Avenger Night Mission Chronograph and Avenger Night Mission GMT

Two green models are new to the Night Mission collection: a 44mm Avenger GMT with a rotating pinion bezel and 24-timezone indication and a larger 46mm Super Avenger chronograph with a uni-directional 60-minute bezel. True to the Night Mission series, both feature a stealth, all-black case furnished in ceramic and durable titanium hardware for the case back, crown, and side pushers (chronograph only). Both also feature a dynamic black carbon dial and a military-inspired khaki green calfskin leather strap. However, the chronograph is powered by the Breitling 01 movement, and the GMT features the Breitling 32.

Breitling Super Avenger B01 Chronograph 46 Night Mission Ref. SB0148101B1X1

Breitling Super Avenger Night Mission Green Specs

Model:Super Avenger Night Mission ChronographAvenger Night Mission GMT
References:SB0148101B1X1S32320101B1X1
Case:Ceramic
46mm diameter
54.75mm lug-to-lug
15.32mm thick
Ceramic
44mm diameter
53mm lug-to-lug
12.35mm thick
Bezel:Uni-directional 60-minutesRotating bezel 24 timezone
Dial:Black carbonBlack carbon
Bracelet/Strap:Calfskin leatherCalfskin leather
Movement:Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Caliber 32
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Functions:Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
2nd and 3rd timezones
Date
Water Resistance:300 meters300 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$9,950$6,950
Night Mission Green Specs: 46mm Chronograph & 44mm GMT

Avenger Night Mission 42 Watches in New Colors

Breitling added new color options to the smaller 42mm Night Mission collection. The first is an all-black three-hand model with a black carbon dial, black military leather strap, and the Breitling caliber 17 time-and-date movement. Two chronograph models also joined the lineup, one with a vibrant turquoise dial and military leather strap and the other with a black carbon dial and a sand military leather strap. Both are driven by the standard caliber 01 Breitling chronograph movement. Furthermore, all three new 2024 models sport a uni-directional bezel and a black ceramic case.

Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 42 Night Mission Ref. SB0146101L1X1 Turquoise Model

Avenger Night Mission 42 Specs:

Model:Avenger Night Mission 42Avenger Night Mission 42 B01 Chronograph
References:S17328101B1X1SB0146101L1X1 (turquoise)
SB0146101B1X1 (sand)
Case:Ceramic
42mm diameter
51.21mm lug-to-lug
12.25mm thick
Ceramic
42mm diameter
51.21mm lug-to-lug
15.15mm thick
Bezel:Unidirectional 60 minutesUnidirectional 60 minutes
Dial:Black carbonTurquoise, black carbon
Bracelet/Strap:Black calfskin leatherTurquoise calfskin leather
Sand calfskin leather
Movement:Caliber 17
Automatic
38-hour power reserve
Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Seconds, minutes, hours, dateChronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Water Resistance:300 meters300 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$6,300$9,550 (turquoise)
$9,750 (sand)
Avenger Night Mission 42 Specs

New Titanium Super Avenger 46 Watches

Breitling added two new watches to the Super Avenger collection. Both are made of lightweight titanium and feature a black or blue dial with the option of either a titanium bracelet or a calfskin leather strap to match the dial. Both models feature 300 meters of water resistance, a unidirectional 60-minute bezel, and the Breitling caliber 01 chronograph movement.

Titanium Breitling Super Avenger B01 Chronograph 46 Ref. EB0148101C1E1 Blue Dial Titanium Bracelet Model

Titanium Super Avenger 46 Specs:

Model:Titanium Super Avenger B01 Chronograph
References:EB0148101B1X1 (black dial/leather strap)
EB0148101B1E1 (black dial/titanium bracelet)
EB0148101C1X1 (blue dial/leather strap)
EB0148101C1E1 (blue dial/titanium bracelet)
Case:Titanium
46mm diameter
54.70mm lug-to-lug
15.20mm thick
Bezel:Unidirectional 60-minute
Dial:Black, blue
Bracelet/Strap:Leather, titanium
Movement:Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Water Resistance:300 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):$9,350 Leather strap
$10,200 Titanium bracelet
Titanium Super Avenger 46 Watches

New B01 Avenger 42 Chronograph Watches

Several 42mm Avenger watches in stainless steel outfitted with the Breitling caliber 01 chronograph movement also joined this year’s lineup. Each variation sports a 42-mm stainless steel case, a unidirectional bezel, and 300 meters of water resistance. Currently, three colorways are available: black, blue, and green. Each is sold with a matching stainless steel bracelet or a military leather strap.

Avenger B01 Chronograph 42 ref. AB0146101L1X1 Green Dial/Leather Strap

New B01 Avenger 42 Chronograph Specs:

Model:Avenger B01 Chronograph 42
References:AB0146101C1X1 (blue dial/leather strap)
AB0146101C1A1 (blue dial/stainless steel bracelet)
AB0146101L1X1 (green dial/leather strap)
AB0146101L1A1 (green dial/stainless steel bracelet)
AB0146101B1X1 (black dial/leather strap)
AB0146101B1A1 (black dial/stainless steel bracelet)
Case:Stainless steel
42mm diameter
51.21mm lug-to-lug
15.05mm thick
Bezel:Unidirectional 60-minute
Dial:Black, blue, green
Bracelet/Strap:Stainless steel, military leather
Movement:Caliber 01
Automatic
70-hour power reserve
Functions:Chronograph: 1/4th second, 30 minutes, 12 hours
Date
Water Resistance:300 meters
2024 Retail Price (MSRP):
$8,150 (military leather strap)
$8,450 (stainless steel bracelet)
B01 Avenger 42 Chronograph Specs

2024 Breitling Superocean Releases

Breitling takes the Superocean in two different yet equally creative directions with the new rainbow-dial Superocean Automatic 42 and 36 and the camouflage-dial Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver.

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Rainbow Dial Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 and 36

Breitling added a new selection of hip and colorful rainbow-dial models to its portfolio, this time to the Superocean Automatic 42 and 36. The Slow Motion-inspired square hour markers and paddle-shaped hands are filled with Super-LumiNova in every shade of the rainbow. 

2024 rainbow Breitling releases
2024 Breitling rainbow releases: Super Ocean Automatic 42 (left) and 36 (right). Image: Breitling

The 2024 release includes five models.  Four are made of stainless steel and feature a 42mm case and either a turquoise, aquamarine, orange, or yellow rubber strap.  The other model is a 36mm version in stainless steel and 18k red gold with a white rubber strap.  The tip of the lollipop seconds hand on the 42mm model is a vibrant shade of turquoise, while the 36mm model sports a green-tipped seconds hand.  On both models, the square hour hand is filled with green Super-LumiNova, while the minute hand is orange.

Rainbow Dial Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 and 36 Specs:

Model:Superocean Automatic 42Superocean Automatic 36
References:A17375211B2S1
(turquoise)
A17375211B2S3
(orange)
A17375211B2S2
(aquamarine)
A17375211B2S4
(yellow)
U17377211A1S1
(white)
Case:Stainless steel
42mm diameter
47.7mm lug-to-lug
12.5mm thick
Stainless steel/18k red gold
36mm diameter
42.4mm lug-to-lug
12.2mm thick
Bezel:Uni-directional 60 minutesUni-directional 60 minutes
Dial:Black/rainbow Super-LumiNovaWhite/rainbow Super-LumiNova
Bracelet/Strap:Turquoise rubber
Orange rubber
Aquamarine rubber
Yellow Rubber
White rubber
Movement:Caliber 17
Automatic
38-hour power reserve
Caliber 17
Automatic
38-hour power reserve
Functions:Hours, minutes, secondsHours, minutes, seconds
Water Resistance:300 meters300 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP):$5,200$7,300
Rainbow Dial Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 and 36

Titanium Breitling Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver

Breitling developed a dive watch in the 1960s called the Superocean Slow Motion. It was made for scuba diving and featured chunky, squared-off luminescent hour markers and hands and a contrasting minute ring for optimal legibility while in the water. Today, the entire Superocean collection, including the new Super Diver, is very much inspired by that vintage watch. 

Camo-dial 2024 Breitling release
Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver with camo dial. Image: Breitling

Four new models have joined the lineup, featuring adventure-ready camouflage dials in either black or green and with a metal or rubber strap.  They have a similar design to the rest of the Superocean 46 collection but with a slightly thicker profile (by about 1mm) to accommodate a soft-iron inner case for better anti-magnetism.  It also has an increased 1,000-meter depth rating (compared to the standard 300 meters) and a bi-directional bezel secured with a patented safety lock. Whereas most Superocean models are made of stainless steel, the Breitling Super Diver opts for lightweight titanium.

Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver Specs:

Model:Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver BlackSuperocean Automatic 46 Super Diver Green
Reference:E10379351B1E1
(metal bracelet)
E10379351B1S1
(rubber strap)
E10379D31L1E1
(metal bracelet)
E10379D31L1S1
(rubber strap)
Case:Titanium
46mm diameter
24mm lugs
Titanium
46mm diameter
24mm lugs
Dial:Black camouflageGreen camouflage
Bezel:Bi-directional with safety lock
matte ceramic
Bi-directional with safety lock
matte ceramic
Bracelet/Strap:Titanium
Rubber
Titanium
Rubber
Movement:Caliber 10
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Caliber 10
Automatic
42-hour power reserve
Functions:Hours, minutes, secondsHours, minutes, seconds
Water Resistance:1,000 meters1,000 meters
2024 Retail Prices (MSRP):$6,950 (bracelet)
$6,300 (strap)
$6,950 (bracelet)
$6,300 (strap)
Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver

New Breitling at Geneva Watch Days 2024

Check out our coverage of Geneva Watch Days 2024, to learn more about the novelties Breilting released at the event, including the brand’s first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph watches.

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Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 and 36: A Brief History https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/candy-pink-rolex-oyster-perpetual/ https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/candy-pink-rolex-oyster-perpetual/#respond Fri, 01 Nov 2024 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/?p=22675 Watch dial colors are a lot like car colors. The majority of them are “non-colors” (like white, silver, grey and […]

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Watch dial colors are a lot like car colors. The majority of them are “non-colors” (like white, silver, grey and black), with champagne and blue also being common. But Rolex made waves in 2020 when they released a lineup of brightly colored lacquer dials for three sizes of their Oyster Perpetual models (31mm, 36mm and 41mm). The Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual, offered in 31mm and 36mm, was immediately popular.

Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
Ref. 12600

The other colorful dials introduced that year (yellow, red, green, and turquoise) have remained very popular too, as has the Celebration dial released in 2023. For whatever reason, Rolex never offered these colorful lacquer dials on the Oyster Perpetual 28 or 34. More typical “sunburst” dials are available in all five sizes.

Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31

The Oyster Perpetual 31 is arguably the hottest women’s Rolex watch on the market right now, if not the hottest women’s luxury watch period. The Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 was discontinued in 2022, when yellow and red dials were discontinued altogether. Based on sales listings for the Oyster Perpetual 31, Candy Pink is by far the rarest color of all, and it sells for around $11,000 while the other colors are closer to $9,500.

Ref. 277200
Oyster Perpetual 31 ref. 277200. Photo by Porcello Jewelers

The Rolex caliber 2232 that powers the Oyster Perpetual 31, considered a “ladies’ movement,” has a Syloxi hairspring–an innovation that most men’s Rolex watches don’t have. Its power reserve of 55 hours is more than sufficient, and it doesn’t seem to suffer from the notorious amplitude issues of the Rolex 32xx movement.

For many women, the OP31 is a perfect GADA watch. The Easylink comfort adjustment link in the clasp is a pretty beloved feature for many owners, allowing them to easily keep the size comfortable when their wrist swells in the summer etc.

Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36

Many people expected the Candy Pink Oyster Perpetual 36 to be one of the Rolex models discontinued in 2024, but it’s still in the catalog for now. 36mm is a great traditional size for men’s watches, but at this point, the Oyster Perpetual 36 is widely considered to be a unisex watch.

Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000 debuted in 2020.
Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000

The Candy Pink OP36 has double-baton markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, plus black squares on the minute track at each hour. Although some assume that pink watches are generally for women, plenty of male collectors enjoy wearing the Candy Pink OP36.

Luxury Bazaar listed a Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 for $10,500 in July of 2024 and it got snapped up almost immediately. As of late 2024, market price is closer to $12,000. That’s not much less than the once-ultra-hot turquoise or Celebration dials (now around $14,000) and not much more than the 31mm Candy Pink model, interestingly.

Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 in box
Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000

Specs

SpecificationOyster Perpetual 31Oyster Perpetual 36
Reference Number277200-0009126000-0008
Case MaterialOystersteelOystersteel
Case Diameter31mm36mm
Case Thickness10.8mm11.6mm
Lug-to-Lug Length36.6mm43.5mm
Water Resistance100m100m
Movement Caliber22323230
Power Reserve55 hours70 hours
BraceletOyster bracelet with Easylink claspOyster bracelet with Easylink clasp
CrystalSapphireSapphire
MSRP (Oct. 2024)(Discontinued 2022, other colors available at $5,650)$6,100
Market Price (Oct. 2024)$11,000$12,000
Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 vs. 36 specs

Candy Pink vs. Pink Sunburst

The Candy Pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual dials are lacquered and thus have a slight gloss to them, but they’re not exactly shiny. The regular sunburst pink dials offered by Rolex are more shimmery, with a bit more of an “orangey” hue.

Candy vs. Sunburst
Candy Pink Rolex dials (left) vs. pink sunburst dials (right)

Sunburst pink dials are cool, too, but there’s something special about the Candy Pink color. I expect demand will remain strong for these for years to come.

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