Is Purnell the Next Richard Mille?

When it comes to contemporary, ultra-luxury sports watches, Richard Mille is usually top of mind. However, there’s a younger brand in town that means business. If you haven’t already, meet Purnell watches.

Purnell is a watch brand that is creating modern, head-turning tourbillons and breaking records along the way. As Purnell says, the company goes beyond conventional high watchmaking; this is hyper-horology. Always seeking the rarest, we got our hands on a Purnell Escape II White Piece Unique. Here’s why we think it might be the next Richard Mille.

Purnell Watches: Tourbillon Only

Purnell was launched at Watches & Wonders 2020, leaving behind its precursor Cécil Purnell. From the start, Purnell established that it’s a “tourbillon-only” brand, which means all of its watches will include at least one tourbillon. Note that although Richard Mille manufactures more than just tourbillons today, it was tourbillon watches that put RM on the map.

Related: The Most Trending Brands from Watches & Wonders 2023, According to Google

The tourbillon may be a centuries-old watch mechanism but Purnell’s approach to designing them is fresh and innovative. The young brand teamed up with master watchmaker and tourbillon wizard Eric Coudray (winner of the Prix Gaïa 2012 and the man responsible for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Gyrotourbillon and the MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome) to create the movements for Purnell’s flagship watches: the Escape Primo and the Escape II.

Back to Basics: What is a Tourbillon Watch? 

The Record-Breaking Spherion Tourbillon

The Spherion, which is Coudray’s invention, is the world’s fastest triple-axis tourbillon. The inner cage completes one revolution in eight seconds, the middle cage in 16 seconds, and the outer cage in 30 seconds. For context, most tourbillons take 60 seconds to complete a revolution. As Purnell puts it, this is like an F1 car going 400km/h for 24 hours straight without needing a pit stop.

The Purnell Escape Primo watches include one Spherion triple-axis tourbillon while the Escape II has two of them, which turn in opposite directions. The choreography of the pair of spherical tourbillons on the Escape II dial is incredible; the tourbillon’s six cages make over 38,000 revolutions in a 24-hour period. By contrast, a single-plane tourbillon will typically make 1,400 revolutions a day. In short, the Purnell Escape II is the world’s fastest double triple-axis tourbillon.

Purnell Watches Design Cues: More Future Than Past

Aside from the impressive mechanics of Purnell watches, the brand is also focused on executing contemporary and futuristic designs. Purnell follows the philosophy of “More Future Than Past,” ensuring that its watches are built for today’s watch enthusiasts rather than yesterday’s.

Escape Primo and Escape II watches share the same case structure, which is to say their cases measure 48mm in diameter and 16mm thick. While on paper this may seem oversized, the watches actually wear smaller thanks to their ergonomic design that hugs the wrist comfortably. Plus, the skeletonized dials and domed sapphire crystal lend an airy feel, eliminating some of the solid bulk that larger watches can have. Furthermore, similar to Richard Mille, Purnell watches are built to be as light as possible, adding to their comfort.

More Thoughts on Case Design: A Primer on Watch Case Shapes

If you view the watches tilted from the 6 o’clock position, you can really appreciate the depth of the dial and the stunning architecture of all the mechanical components. Purnell watches also include windows on the case sides for an even better view of the impressive mechanics.

Purnell watches are offered in various materials and colors, keeping the catalog fresh and exciting. Along with classics like gold and platinum cases, Purnell also offers cases in modern materials such as carbon, sapphire, ceranium, ceramized titanium, and a microfiber material called WPM. The brand even sets some of its tourbillon cages with precious gemstones — a visually arresting detail that’s far from traditional.

Purnell Ballon d’Or

While Purnell has several partnerships, it’s the ones it has with soccer that are most prominent. Purnell is not only a partner of the Paris Saint-Germain and AS Monaco football clubs but also the Ballon d’Or, soccer’s most prestigious award. Previous Ballon d’Or winners include Lionel Messi, Karim Benzema, and Alexia Putellas, all of whom received a Purnell Escape Legend Ballon d’Or watch with their coveted Golden Ball prize.

An illustration of Purnell’s creativity and mechanical prowess, the Escape Legend Ballon d’Or stars a tourbillon encased in a golden football, which completes a full rotation in 30 seconds. The 2021 edition of the watch was crafted in carbon and rose gold while the 2022 version was made in titanium and rose gold.

Purnell Watch Prices: How Much is a Purnell?

Purnell watches are exceedingly expensive. Hundreds of thousands to millions of dollars expensive. Purnell Escape Primo models start at around $350,000 retail while Escape Primo II models start at around $450,000 retail. Purnell currently operates two wholly-owned boutiques, one in Geneva and the other in Dubai. Each Purnell watch comes with a lifetime warranty for the original buyer. Purnell is happy to customize watch parts (such as tourbillon cages, dials, barrels, and case materials) for interested clients.

This is the same sandbox that Richard Mille plays in, and as you know, RM watches do not have a shortage of fans ready to buy them up.

More on Richard Mille:
Why Are Richard Mille Watches So Expensive?
Richard Mille Prices: Historical and Current From Actual Sales Numbers
What Is The Current Market Price of a Richard Mille Watch?

It’s also worth pointing out that Purnell watches are 100% Swiss-made and every single caliber component is developed and manufactured in La Vallée de Joux.

A Richard Mille may be “a racing machine on the wrist” but Purnell’s “dance on the wrist” is also worth paying attention to. With their recognizable silhouettes, mechanically complex movements, and cutting-edge materials, Purnell watches are on the right track to give Richard Mille watches a run for their money.

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